Model 28-2 Questions

[toast&tea]

I picked up a really nice 6" 28-2, s/n N5140XX, last year. It has a light turn ring a no wear at all in the area where the firing pin protrudes. I'm thinking that it may be unfired. I posted here when I picked it up and was told that it probably dates to 1978/79. I've been reluctant to fire it and it's mostly been sitting in the safe. I pulled it out a few days ago and I have a couple of questions.

#1 It came with the original box, rust inhibitor paper, instruction manual, warranty card, ammo pamphlet, cleaning rod, brush, and bore mop. I have a screwdriver that's been in my toolbox for years. Would this have come with one? I could toss it in if it would complete the set. Is there anything else that should be in there?

#2 The Magna grips are in good shape, but have a small spot of flattening of the checkering on the left grip panel. Is there anything that can be done about this? Also, I removed the grips and one of them is stamped 515072. We're the grips always numbered to the gun? Just seems odd that someone would replace them with the checkering issue and they're only 1000 apart.

#3 What is the name for the area in the cylinder window where the firing pin protrudes?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

 

[toast&tea]

A few more photos. Sorry for the poor quality.

 

[snw19_357]

#3 What is the name for the area in the cylinder window where the firing pin protrudes?

The circle the firing pin protrudes through is the hammer nose bushing and that bushing is in the recoil shield.

 

[toast&tea]

The circle the firing pin protrudes through is the hammer nose bushing and that bushing is in the recoil shield.

Recoil shield. That's what I was looking for. Thanks

 

[Dvus]

The serial # on the stocks being off by 1 digit is odd, but not unheard of. I had the same thing on a pre model 18 where the hundreds digit was off by 1.

 

[toast&tea]

The serial # on the stocks being off by 1 digit is odd, but not unheard of. I had the same thing on a pre model 18 where the hundreds digit was off by 1.

I'm sorry, I wrote that poorly. They're not exactly 1000 off, but in the vicinity. Just seems odd that if someone replaced them they didn't replace them with a perfect set.

 

[alwslate]

My guess is that someone swapped the grips before selling the gun. Not uncommon.

 

[chief38]

As far as the grip repair goes, you can try steaming the wood with an iron in that area and that should raise the wood a bit. By recutting or chasing the diamond checkering in the affected area and that might help to make the flattened area look normal again. A Grip Guy should be able to accomplish this, but IMHO since the serial number doesn't match the gun anyway, you will probably be able to find another old stock set for less money. I haven't kept up on the price of less available N frame grips lately. but know K's are way less expensive.

 

[stansdds]

Examine the front of the cylinder, if there are only three chambers that have burn rings, and it will be alternating chambers, then it most likely unfired since the factory test firing.

 

[Hawg Rider]

Also, S&W didn't include "screwdrivers" in with their revolvers and other accessories. Although it looks like a small screwdriver, it's actually a Sight Adjustment Tool (SAT)...with a hollow ground blade for adjusting the windage and elevation screws on the rear sight. SATs were made for many years, and there are quite a few variations of the design of the SATs. You'll need to find one for a late 70s N-frame revolver (either from someone here on the Forum, eBay, or local gun show). I'm sure that one of our Forum gurus will be along shortly to show exactly what type of SAT you need to complete your set. Now go out and shoot that revolver and enjoy!

 

[alwslate]

The amazing coincidence is that the SATs fit the side plate screws so well

 

[toddimusnimski]

I believe that the style of sight adjustment tool you have is correct for a gun shipped in that era. Good match! Its best not to use it on anything but the rear sight - sideplate screws deserve a hollow ground blade with a decent handle that you can grip and torque well. Hate to slip and bugger up the screw, or worse mar the gun's finish. Fortunately the sideplate doesnt typically require removal during routine, after rangetime cleaning.

If the wrong SN bothers you, you can try to find a set of unserialized magna stocks that were sold as accessories back in the day. Better yet, get a nice set of factory target stocks for it. Stocks from that era had a football-shaped cutout on the left panel to aid case extraction. Newer 28-2/3's (early 80's) will have that area notched for speed loader use.

A great revolver! No doubt you'll get a lot of enjoyment out of it.

Todd

 

[toast&tea]

I appreciate the information. I thought about steaming the grips, but I was worried that I'd screw them up worse. I'll definitely have to check out the front of the cylinder. I've had that screwdriver... um, SAT kicking around in the toolbox for years. I guess it has a new home.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Don't be a warehouse for the next owner........Shoot and enjoy it.

 

[Sevens]

Another guess for the stocks with a near but not matching number is that possibly a previous owner mistakenly put this set on this revolver when he owned both guns. Also possible that he did this intentionally because he had two different styles and he also may have not realized that a serial number is on them.

 

[Retired W4]

The odds against the number on the stock panel being anything other than a mis-stamp are astronomical.