model 34, age and repair info

[swowner123456]

I have a model 34. I think it is also called a kit gun. It was my uncles and I have kept it clean and today I decided to fire it. The cyl does not lock up. I would like to know the age and info about sending the gun in for repairs. I don't expect that the gun is worth a lot of money. I would like an estimate, but the sentimental value is all that matters
# on bottom of the but is 51971
#,S on crane is "MOD 34" / 68425
also lightly stamped is "GW" and 10
68425 also appears inside the butt
The gun is a 3 screws on the side plate
It has wood grips but I do not believe they are S&W, perhaps Target. I do know her shot in several pistol leagues in the 1950 to 1970 years. I have 5 of his S&W pistols.
thank you for allowing me to be part of this forum.

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

Actually, .22 rimfires are in relatively high demand. An well used flat-latch M34 like that, if it was working right, would probably trade hands in the $350 to $450 range. More at a LGS. Age alone doesn't diminish it's value. It increases it.

Can you explain the problem in more detail.

You say it does not lock up. Does that mean the cylinder spins freely when the hammer is cocked?

Does the cylinder turn when you pull back on the hammer?

When the cylinder is closed, and you push on the thumb piece, will it more forward?

The fix is almost always something simple. S&W's are very robust and the lock work is not fragile.

 

[swowner123456]

I have attached two additional photos

When the hammer is down on the firing pin, after the trigger is pulled the cyl is unlocked and will rotate in either direction ( clockwise or counter clockwise with no effort or detents) It free wheels.

If I manually move the cyl to the correct position and squeeze the trigger or cock the hammer the cyl will not rotate clockwise by hand (if you are looking from the rear of the gun) , but will spin freely counterclockwise or to the left. By pushing the cyl release tab it will easily open the cyl at anytime the hammer is NOT COCKED .
Once the cyl is timed by hand the gun will cycle ( the trigger will
cock the hammer, and time the cyl and complete the cycle several times before the timing becomes off and then the cyl must be manually moved to allow the hammer to be cocked again or to pull the trigger. During this time the hammer can not be cocked or the trigger pulled

In the photos attached #1 with hammer down the cyl freewheels

#2 when the hammer is cocked the cyl will lock up, but not firmly to the right only[/ATTACH]
note right and left rotation are from the rear of the gun.

As to the question does the cocking of the hammer move the cyl? YES but only IF I TIME THE CYL FIRST by hand and will do it only a few times then stop/.

 

[muddocktor]

I would suggest calling S&W and getting them to do the work. Call them and they will send you a shipping tag (their shipping rates are much more reasonable than what you can ship for). Once they receive it, they will look over the pistol and send you an estimate for repair. Once you pay them they will fix it and return the pistol directly back to your house. Their rates are reasonable in my opinion. I sent my model 27 back last year for them to cut the throat erosion off the barrel and they replaced the hand and cylinder stop and reset everything back to spec and it ended up costing less than $200 including shipping. Since this pistol has sentimental value too, don't just send it to any jack leg so-called pistol smith.

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

I agree with muddocktor. Send it back to the Mothership. They have the skills and parts, and it's an easy repair for them. I would expect it to cost under $100. When it comes back it will be perfect. You'll get a new trigger stop and hand, minimum. Probably all new springs, too.

Even if it takes a while to complete the process, post back what they did and what it cost. They will send it with a copy of the work order describing what was done and what was replaced. It can be cryptic, but we can help interpret it.

 

[H Richard]

I will also recommend sending it back to S&W as they will go through it and bring it back into new spec. I'm guessing the only problem is it is "gunked up" inside from years of firing residue, and dried up oil. You'll get back a "like new" gun.