Model 36 and Model 37

Echo5niner

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Pictured below are my two J frames. My first J frame was my grandfather model 37 air weight. Mechanically its in great condition but the finish on it is rough. The original finish on the aluminum frame is worn off in a lot of areas. Supposedly my grandfather tried applying black shoe polish to touch up the the wear marks. The little revolver then passed to my father who got some sort of ceracoat done to it. By the time the revolver made it to me the coat was chipping off so I scratched off the flaking coat using my finger nail and a copper penny which in turn allowed the original finish to show up. (May not have been the brightest idea at the time but I was pretty young at that time.) I plan on taking it again soon now that it has new grips and my ability to shoot revolvers has greatly improved from when I first started shooting.

The model 36 is a new addition I picked up for 400 dollars after fees, shipping, and the usual. The revolver is in great condition and is a pre letter model with grip frame number in the four hundred thousands. Interestingly the revolver has a target trigger which was not something I was aware of when I when I ordered online. the finish is nearly perfect, action smooth, and easily the prettiest old smith I now own.
 

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Congrats on both Chiefs and thanks for sharing them with us.

Your 3" Model 36 is my favorite Chiefs Special, and I'm a huge fan of the target trigger. It likely shipped in 1966 after Smith & Wesson deleted the flat thumbpiece and went to the contoured part. Check to see if the matching serial number is stamped on the inside of the right stock.
 
Congrats on both Chiefs and thanks for sharing them with us.

Your 3" Model 36 is my favorite Chiefs Special, and I'm a huge fan of the target trigger. It likely shipped in 1966 after Smith & Wesson deleted the flat thumbpiece and went to the contoured part. Check to see if the matching serial number is stamped on the inside of the right stock.
So I might of misunderstood where to look for the serial number. The number that is covered up by the grips and also hidden in the crane of the cylinder is only 5 digits 719xx. The number on the bottom of the grip on the exterior is 6 digits 447xxx which also matches the number stamped into the wood grip.
 
Nothing to add here other than I think it's super-cool that you still your grandad's Model 37, and that you're intending to enjoy it.

If you're not certain about its condition it might pay to have it checked by a true expert, but choose carefully if you look for one. And I highly recommend firing only jacketed STANDARD PRESSURE loads, because those old aluminum J frames weren't built for the +P era. And if you shoot a lot of lead rounds it's a PITA to properly clean the barrel, especially when you're limited to cleaning from the muzzle end because it's a revolver, so laziness and practicality makes it worth choosing a projectile that has some sort of cladding that will help prevent leading.

Enjoy those two beauties. I sure wish I still had my late dad's Model 36 snubby because I always loved that revolver. Even today, when I think of a detective's revolver the model 36 is what comes to mind.
 
The number that is covered up by the grips and also hidden in the crane of the cylinder is only 5 digits 719xx. The number on the bottom of the grip on the exterior is 6 digits 447xxx which also matches the number stamped into the wood grip.
The six-digit number (447xxx) is the serial number.

The five-digit numbers are assembly numbers. You find the assembly number in three locations: the two you describe and a third on the inside of the side plate. Before the days of CNC machines employees hand-fit the parts. Assembly numbers ensured fitted parts went back together at the end of the manufacturing process. Today they serve only to guarantee a revolver retains its original parts.
 

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