Model 36 Cylinder Won't Open

[Rusted]

The Cylinder release seems stuck as well. The hammer does respond to cocking. The revolver is fully loaded.

I'm not a buff so I'll have to be walked through any suggestions. I did use plastic under the cylinder as suggested in another thread, and the cylinder and ejector does spin counterclockwise. Help!

 

[LoboGunLeather]

Sounds like the ejector rod has backed out of its threads enough to bind up the release. I have seen that on several S&W revolvers over the years. Unless it is extremely bound up it can possibly be freed up by placing the revolver into a padded vise, hold the cylinder release fully forward, and tap the cylinder with a rubber or plastic mallet. Assuming this works, the fix will be to screw the ejector rod down firmly, preferably setting it with a drop of Loctite on the threads to keep it from working loose again (clean all the oil and gunk off before applying the Loctite).

 

[Golddog]

You can probably tighten the ejector rod with your fingers without any tools - just twist it. I had this problem occasionally and never needed tools to fix it.

 

[radar1972]

Fully loaded? And you're unfamiliar? I'd be taking that thing to a good gunsmith!!

 

[sturtyboy]

Obviously, keep it aimed in as safe direction at all times!!

It does sound as if the ejector rod has backed out as stated...

Try turning with your fingers, the knurled ejector rod CCW to tighten the ejector rod. If it will turn, it will allow enough room to open the cylinder. Then unload the gun.

Carefully turn the stem CW to remove it, clean both threaded portions of oil. Place drop of Loctite (suggest blue 242; 271 red is more heavy duty and can require heat and tools to remove the parts) to the threads and reassemble.

This is not an uncommon problem to some revolvers. But a drop of Loctite should fix it.

 

[sturtyboy]

Obviously, keep it aimed in a safe direction at all times!!

It does sound as if the ejector rod has backed out as stated...

Try turning with your fingers, the knurled ejector rod CCW to tighten the ejector rod. If it will turn, it will allow enough room to open the cylinder. Then unload the gun.

Carefully turn the stem CW to remove it, clean both threaded portions of oil. Place drop of Loctite (suggest blue 242; 271 red is more heavy duty and can require heat and tools to remove the parts) to the threads and reassemble.

This is not an uncommon problem to some revolvers. But a drop of Loctite should fix it.

 

[DWalt]

Depending on its age, it could unscrew either LH or RH. If it has LH threads, there will be a small groove at the bottom of the knurling on the extractor rod. Use of Loctite is not recommended. There is a trick to tightening the rod. Put empty cases in all chambers, and tighten using a scrap of leather and pliers to avoid rod damage. Do not over- do the tightening.

 

[ontargetagain]

You might be able to get a flat shoe lace wrapped around the stem maybe two loops around, then with ends in opposite directions pull in one direction or the other to rotate the stem to tighten it enough to free it up to open.

Again, it's a LOADED GUN and do all procedures with utmost safety please!

Karl

 

[chasmatic]

I think I'd go to the range and fire the ammo if possible. Make it safe then start fiddling around with it.

 

[teholt123]

New purchase Expertise Appreciated

I just traded a LCP for a very used S&W 38 special Model 37 airweight which seems to have been mistreated from what my limited experience would tell me. There are marks where the cylinder has been slammed and it has a bent extractor rod. My question is this.. I believe this was manufactured in the 80's is that correct? Do you have any thoughts on repair? How can I determine if the plunger needs to be replaced as well? This version would have left handed threads? And lastly, do you have any tips or recommendations for cleaning this gun?
FYI: Serial number is J742XXX I apologize for all the questions and very much appreciate all replies.

 

[Rusted]

Troubleshot

Thank you all for your suggestions, but nothing worked.

I took it to the range and he couldn't get it open and wanted me to leave it to work on it some more and/or refer it to someone else but based on what he said (He said it was missing a part inside - which surprised me, and yada, yada, yada) I don't think it's worth the trouble. So after 26 years, I'm going to let my baby go.

I did not treat her well. Most of the time I wore it in belly bands so there was some rust (Blued). Wow, I can't believe I had it that long and I'm lucky I didn't need it during the time before I realized it was inoperable.