Model 36 Questions (Date/Cylinder Lock Up)

[Drem]

First what year is associated with serial number 1J074XX?

Secondly, with the cylinder closed it will not lock up 100%. Trying to rotate the cylinder counterclockwise (when looking at the hammer) it locks up on each notch. However it can be rotated clockwise with not a lot of effort. Each of the notches appear to be clean and the cylinder stop is showing just a bit of wear to the coloring. The edges are crisp.

Edited to add: Cylinder stop spring appears to be pushing it up strongly.
Edited again: The barrel is not pinned and the logo is on the left hand side.

Any advice/education would be appreciated.

 

[two-bit cowboy]

Can't help with the mechanics, but Smith & Wesson used the 1Jxxxxx serial series in 1982 and 1983 as an interim series for Bodyguards and Chiefs Specials between J999999 and the alphanumeric serial series. The series began at 1J00000 and ended at 1J47502.

Does the one you're asking about have a barrel pin? Is the logo on the left side of the frame small or large?

 

[Drem]

Can't help with the mechanics, but Smith & Wesson used the 1Jxxxxx serial series in 1982 and 1983 as an interim series for Bodyguards and Chiefs Specials between J999999 and the alphanumeric serial series. The series began at 1J00000 and ended at 1J47502.

Does the one you're asking about have a barrel pin? Is the logo on the left side of the frame small or large?

Thanks. That would put it in the same vintage as my Mod15 and M586. Nice.

Oops I should have included that in my original post and will edit it.

The barrel is not pinned. The logo is on the left side and pretty much fills the space below the thumbpiece. Assuming that is a small logo? Since my Mod15 has the logo on the side plate.

 

[two-bit cowboy]

The logo is on the left side and pretty much fills the space below the thumbpiece. Assuming that is a small logo?

Sounds like yours is the large logo.

Here's the small logo on a 1969 Bodyguard.


Here's the large logo on a 1985 Model 60-1.

 

[Drem]

Sounds like yours is the large logo.

Here's the large logo on a 1985 Model 60-1.
View attachment 771469

My assumption was wrong. Yep it has the large logo. Thanks again.

 

[Drem]

Still looking for tips regarding the cylinder issue.

Thanks

 

[Rocketmedic40]

Does it time correctly?

 

[Drem]

Does it time correctly?

It appears to and if it is between holes it will finish rotating into proper position as the hammer is pulled back or trigger is pulled.

 

[Rocketmedic40]

I’d recommend either a gunsmith or very carefully doing a step-by-step disassembly; but if it locks normally but slips, maybe like a worn locking pawl or whatever it’s called?

 

[Drem]

I’d recommend either a gunsmith or very carefully doing a step-by-step disassembly; but if it locks normally but slips, maybe like a worn locking pawl or whatever it’s called?

The cylinder stop appears to have a bit of wear but I have no idea how much wear is allowable. Same goes for the notches. Going the other direction if you will no visible wear.

Guess I'll go the cheapest route first and buy a new cylinder stop and see if that fixes it. Keeping fingers crossed I do not have to replace the cylinder as well.

 

[daveboy]

I'm far from an expert. However, when checking cylinder lock-up it's my understanding that you should be holding the trigger all the way back. Are you doing it that way?

 

[Drem]

I'm far from an expert. However, when checking cylinder lock-up it's my understanding that you should be holding the trigger all the way back. Are you doing it that way?

It locks up fine when the hammer is more than halfway cocked to full cocked. The problem is when it is at rest.

 

[Pat the Gunsmith]

I literally did hundreds of warranty repairs on Model 36 revolvers alone.
Timing is assessed with the trigger pulled and held fully to the rear, hammer fully forward and, in reality, it should be done with both empty chambers and empty cases in the chambers. The ball of the cylinder stop is NOT flat but angled. Rotating the cylinder clockwise, from the shooters standpoint, on the freeing cut side of the cylinder notches, is not an entirely valid test. The free cut depth and width vary. A new cylinder stop is NOT a drop in part. The ball width has to be fit to the cylinder notches, the height of the ball has to be adjusted and must NOT raise completely clear of the frame window. It also must NOT lower past the frame window. It must lower enough and soon enough to allow proper cylinder rotation and then pop up soon enough to prevent "skipping." It must have proper "4 way motion," down, up, forward and back.
It must properly engage the trigger nose. Remember the final "carry up" of cylinder rotation is achieved by the width of the hand, NOT the length.

 

[Drem]

I literally did hundreds of warranty repairs on Model 36 revolvers alone.
Timing is assessed with the trigger pulled and held fully to the rear, hammer fully forward and, in reality, it should be done with both empty chambers and empty cases in the chambers. The ball of the cylinder stop is NOT flat but angled. Rotating the cylinder clockwise, from the shooters standpoint, on the freeing cut side of the cylinder notches, is not an entirely valid test. The free cut depth and width vary. A new cylinder stop is NOT a drop in part. The ball width has to be fit to the cylinder notches, the height of the ball has to be adjusted and must NOT raise completely clear of the frame window. It also must NOT lower past the frame window. It must lower enough and soon enough to allow proper cylinder rotation and then pop up soon enough to prevent "skipping." It must have proper "4 way motion," down, up, forward and back.
It must properly engage the trigger nose. Remember the final "carry up" of cylinder rotation is achieved by the width of the hand, NOT the length.

The issue I am having is not with a clockwise rotation. It rotates with very little effort counterclockwise. Comparing with my Mod 15 and 586 neither will rotate counterclockwise unless the hammer is slightly pulled back.

 

[Pat the Gunsmith]

Then replace the cylinder stop. Should be done by someone who knows what they're doing.