10-5 problems

yugolovr

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I am having trouble with the cylinder. Pull the trigger and hold trigger back cylinder locks up normal. Cock hammer again locks up normal.
Timing checks out okay.
With cylinder closed apply counterclockwise pressure on cylinder it is locked like it’s supposed to be.
Apply pressure clockwise and the cylinder can defeat the cylinder stop.

What I have done so far
1- had weak cylinder stop spring. I replaced
2- there were burs on cylinder stop notches. Lightly stoned with white ceramic stone.
3- checked cylinder stop burs on edges. Lightly stoned.

Firearm still has same problem. I’m looking for advice for what to try next.
Thank everyone.
 
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How much protrusion does the cylinder stop ball have? There is a "pad" on the cylinder stop body that you can stone down in order to get the desired height on the ball. If memory serves it should be 1/16". Be careful in this as a little goes a long way.
 
First of all, you don't stone the burrs on the stop notches. You peen the material back where it came from with a hammer and punch. A flat punch for the surface, and a 5/16 round rod for the ramps.

You may be able to save it by filing the pad on the cylinder stop as described above. You may have to file it all the way down, but check as you go and make sure the trigger will reset with the stop at all times.
 
Check the bottom of the cylinder stop locking slots in the cylinder itself.
They can load up with grime, dried oil, carbon, just plain dirt and limit the depth that the cyl stop can drop into the slot.

The corner/edges can get really loaded up sometimes and limit the depth the cylinder stop drops down in.

If applying clockwise rotational pressure on the closed and locked cylinder, you are pressing the cyl stop against the side of the slot that has the least support because of the ramp in the cylinder leading up to the slot.
If the cyl stop is not down at full depth into the slot, it may be able to skip out of the cyl slot when the CW force applied.

Might not be the answ to the problem, but it doesn't take much to try and fix it and see.

If not then check what K Harris advises. Also carefully look at the shape of the locking 'ball' itself. May have been reshaped by a well meaning soul in some attempt at an action job.
Not being able to engage the cyl as well as it should or poorly reshaped/rounded as to allow itself to be cammed out of position on that ramp side of the slot with it's lesser support when that pressure to the cyl is applied..
 
As described above, you may be able to solve the problem by removing material from the adjustment step located on the top portion of the body of the cylinder stop. Removal of material from the step allows the cylinder stop to travel a bit further through the frame window, which helps with engagement.

If the ball of the stop is worn or damaged, replacement of the cylinder stop may be required.



 
The cylinder stop ball looks to be okay. I will stone the adjustment step tomorrow to see if that does it. Thanks for the advice gentlemen.
 
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