Model 39-2 Hammer Cocking Problem

[george_lehr]

I have a beautiful 39-2 I picked up at a really good price ($375.00 for the gun, box and two magazines). It shoots nicely. Empty cases extract and eject just fine and new rounds also chamber just fine. The problem is that the hammer which moves back with the slide, does not stay cocked every time.
I can empty the magazine alternating between single and double action as needed, but would like to have it operate correctly.
Any ideas about what needs to be corrected or replaced are welcome.

George

 

[JohnHL]

George, I would begin by examining the single action notch on the hammer and the sear/sear spring for damage.

John

 

[peterdeb]

Can't help you with the mechanical but have to say you got one heck of a deal....Congratulations!

 

[DMcBB]

Hammer follow! I had that problem, but replacing the hammer and sear fixed it. I’m not sure if it was the hammer or the sear that caused the problem for mine, but swapping both from a parts kit did the trick.

 

[squidsix]

When I have had this happen, recutting the hammer hooks fixed it very easily.

 

[rjm6120]

Incredible deal on a nice 39-2. Those deals sure don't exist here in Kentucky.

 

[AJ]

Are you mechanically inclined? If so it is a problem arising from either the sear or the hammer. Look closely at both and see if you see worn spots. If you do you can try to judiciously try filing the surface back to the original contour. Have done that a long time ago. Now I just replace the sear first and if that doesn't fix it then the hammer.

 

[Green Frog]

When it comes to recutting the sear and/or hammer notch, I fall into the "replace the parts if possible" camp. If I were the new owner of a 39-2 I planned to shoot more than just rarely, I would be looking for a good parts kit on Gun Choker or Flea Bay so I had that and whatever other small parts I might find I needed. It would appear you are into the gun at a really good place, so some spare parts "insurance" would be a reasonable expenditure, at least IMHO.

Froggie

 

[george_lehr]

Are you mechanically inclined? .

I'm confident I can pull the side plate and sear pin, examine the hammer and sear and get them back together again.

In response to Froggie, I have some parts ordered. Unfortunately, the sear and hammer are used parts. I could not find new ones; I looked on Gunbroker, Brownell's, Numrich and Jack First. If my parts are hosed up, hopefully the ones I ordered will be better.

Thank you all for your help.

George

 

[stansdds]

Definitely sounds like an issue between the hammer's single action notch and the sear. It's either wear, damage, or someone tried to perform a trigger job and botched it. Let us know what you find when you remove the current hammer and sear and how the used, replacement parts work.

 

[DMcBB]

… I have some parts ordered. Unfortunately, the sear and hammer are used parts. I could not find new ones; I looked on Gunbroker, Brownell's, Numrich and Jack First. If my parts are hosed up, hopefully the ones I ordered will be better…

39-2 is a first generation S&W da/sa pistol and has been out of production for decades. People on this board complain about parts availability for 3rd generation pistols that were only discontinued a few years ago. Used is the best and only way to go for most parts.

That said, there are some 3rd gen parts that you can retrofit into the 39-2, like the drawbar and the trigger, but I don’t think you can do the sear or hammer because the 1st Gen sear has an extra lever on it compared to the 3rd gen (not sure what it’s called) and the 1st Gen hammer has a half cock notch while the 3rd doesn’t (since 1st Gen lacks the firing pin block safety that was added later). A few other things like the mainspring cup can also interchange AFAIK, and you can switch to MIM and plastic parts which might add in how smooth the action feels.

 

[george_lehr]

Cocking Problem Fixed

As I said in post #9, I had ordered all the parts I thought I might need, including a used hammer. After I received my parts, I found a new old stock hammer assembly (including strut and mainspring) on Ebay. It was actually less money than the used hammer from Numrich, so I ordered it. The used sear I got came with sear spring and plunger still installed. However, I'd also ordered a new sear spring and good used plunger and so installed them.

After removing parts from my gun, it looked like a wear or damage issue with the tooth on one side of the sear and the corresponding notch on the hammer (looked different from the ones on the other side). It also seemed like the plunger I'd installed in the replacement sear stuck out a little farther than the one removed from the gun. There did not seem to be any difference in sear spring tension.

I got quite an education getting it all back together, but a function test showed everything functioning properly. Got to the range last Thursday and can happily say my cocking problem is gone. I had/did not measure trigger pull weight before or after, but if there was a change I didn't notice it at the range.

Thanks to all for offering advice.

George

 

[Dave Haynes]

These parts were probably hardened at the point of contact and that hardfacing is usually a very thin section. Using a jeweler's file or stone to attempt to smooth these parts or make the trigger better can remove the hardfacing. The result is a rapid wear of the contact points. On a model 39 trying to improve the trigger is a fools errand as the trigger is easily one of the best ever made. I've had mine for about 5 years now and I absolutely love the pistol. It is really well made, and safe as you can make an automatic. I looked for 20 years before finally finding one here in the Iron Curtain area of America called Kalif. I can shoot plated lead bullets with great success both for function and accuracy. My friends want one in the worst way. Mine was $550 and I considered it a bargain. With the walnut grips, if a pistol can be considered sexy then this one really is.

 

[JohnHL]

On a model 39 trying to improve the trigger is a fools errand as the trigger is easily one of the best ever made.

It is really well made, and safe as you can make an automatic.

Considering that the 1st gen models (39/59) were not "drop-safe' (can fire if dropped) and the 2nd and 3rd gen pistols were then equipped with a firing pin safety to make them "drop-safe", then I might not agree that the 39 is "as safe as you can make an automatic", but the 2nd and 3rd gen models are closer to that description.

John