Model 58

Personally I would wax and preserve the original finish and exercise care after having it outdoors, but your call.

If you didn't personally assemble (what appear to be) the reloads in your photo, or can't determine the loading data, be very wary of using them. Plenty of "kaboom" threads from known or presumed overloads here :(.
I know who loaded the reloads and he's the only person whose reloads I would even consider using.
With that said these loads went through Hurricane Katrina so I'll be pulling bullets just for the brass and projectiles.

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I believe you have a first year model 58...has the lazy ampersand on the barrel and address? I would, personally, not Ceracoat the revolver. If the finnish is that bad I would send it back to Smith to get re-blued. Or even Fords. But it is your revolver! ;)
 
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it is the "&"...that is amperstand. You have a lazy one...the old style.
The modern "&" is up right and straight. You will find it in Smith & Wesson on the barrel and on the address part were it says Smith & Wesson. You did very well. :)
 
it is the "&"...that is amperstand. You have a lazy one...the old style.
The modern "&" is up right and straight. You will find it in Smith & Wesson on the barrel and on the address part were it says Smith & Wesson. You did very well. :)
Thank you Rapidray.
I'm thinking, although I intend to carry this one and use it, that I'll leave the finish alone unless I opt to send it back to S&W to be reblued and cleaned up.
If I were to do that would it effect is collectibility seeing that it would be the factory that made it working on it?

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Anybody have any idea what sending the gun back to S&W to be cleaned up and re blued would do to the value?

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Anybody have any idea what sending the gun back to S&W to be cleaned up and re blued would do to the value?

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It wouldn't increase it at all and you would be without your fine revolver for at least a year since that's their current back log on refinishing.

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The factory reblue is very high quality and will run about $200 last time I checked.

Tend to agree with Supica & Co....a factory reblue tends to put the value somewhere in between a standard reblue and a clean original example.
 
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