model 59
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john traveler
Member
I can only recommend doing what I've done to my M39 and M59s: strip, lubricate, reassemble, and dry cyle the hell out of them.
By that, I mean using your off hand thumb to hold the hammer back so it does not actually impact the firing pin while cycling the trigger. Do that a few thousand times (literally) and you should be able to feel the difference in trigger pull. There are side benefits to this practice too: it strengthens your grip and trigger finger.
Any autoloader will be smoother after a few hundred firing cycles. This takes the place of range time and actual firing.
By that, I mean using your off hand thumb to hold the hammer back so it does not actually impact the firing pin while cycling the trigger. Do that a few thousand times (literally) and you should be able to feel the difference in trigger pull. There are side benefits to this practice too: it strengthens your grip and trigger finger.
Any autoloader will be smoother after a few hundred firing cycles. This takes the place of range time and actual firing.
starman041
Member
I carried M-39/59 pistols for several years as a LEO, but it has been a while. We went to issue Glocks long before I retired.
The sear (under spring tension)rides against the front of the rounded lower part of the hammer. The face of the lower hammer area often has rough tool marks, which causes the rough feel as the hammer rotates back to fire.
I always took the hammer out and polished the rough area. Note this is a polish operation and does not invlove altering the shape or demensions of the hammer.I never messed with the mating surfaces of the hardened sear or hammer notches.
While the parts were out I checked all for burrs and lightly polished rough spots (especially the sear release lever and the ejector).
This worked for me. Someone else may have better info. I am not a gunsmith, but I held Armorer's certification for several brands of handguns while a LEO.
The sear (under spring tension)rides against the front of the rounded lower part of the hammer. The face of the lower hammer area often has rough tool marks, which causes the rough feel as the hammer rotates back to fire.
I always took the hammer out and polished the rough area. Note this is a polish operation and does not invlove altering the shape or demensions of the hammer.I never messed with the mating surfaces of the hardened sear or hammer notches.
While the parts were out I checked all for burrs and lightly polished rough spots (especially the sear release lever and the ejector).
This worked for me. Someone else may have better info. I am not a gunsmith, but I held Armorer's certification for several brands of handguns while a LEO.
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