Model 60 and ammo??
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I'm certainly not an expert here, but I don't think there is a significant strength difference between the two guns. The Model 36 is a blued, carbon steel gun and the 60 is made with stainless steel; frame, barrel and cylinder. I think both are rated for +P .38 Special. Nevertheless, I don't think you get a lot out of +P ammo in a snubby. I load mine with standard 158 grain semi-wadcutters or 148 grain wadcutters.
More powerful means higher pressure and could mean reloads - so no way to tell exactly what you want to do but to be safe, consider a gun rated for +P verses a gun not +P rated. In a model 60, “more powerful” ammo will likely have very little effect on performance. Not withstanding target ammo verses carry or defense ammo. A model 60 could or could not be stronger than a model 36.
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I have 158gr LSWC (handload) in my 1973 Mdl 36, 158 gr LSWCHP (Remington FBI load) in my 1983 Mdl 60. They serve as one at the front door, the other in my bedroom. I swap them back and forth regularly after trips to the range with 148 gr LWC for practice.
They shoot exactly the same. I've shot both HD loads and the 148 gr targets in both guns. They are J's with good triggers, and easy point and shoot. I think the strength of the stainless and blue Smith J's are similar, if not identical.
They shoot exactly the same. I've shot both HD loads and the 148 gr targets in both guns. They are J's with good triggers, and easy point and shoot. I think the strength of the stainless and blue Smith J's are similar, if not identical.
Way back in the 80s the owner of a gun shop that I did business with several times told me he was curious about the difference in the model 60 and 36. He did some hardness testing and swore that the 36 steel was harder than the stainless model 60. About the same time a local uniformed LEO friend told me their stainless model 66s loosened up more quickly than their previous model 19s. Steel frame .38 spl J frames were NOT factory rated for +P until the last version of the model 60 which was the 60-7 that was still made on the old original, "non magnum", size frame. Will the older J frames blow up with +P ammo? Not hardly. Most factory +P ammo probably doesn't even exceed 17,000 std pressure limits. I have a 60-7 that I will shoot +P level hand loads in and an older flat latch 36 that I don't. Just my decision. At SD distance the ammo fired out of a snubby is less important than shot placement. Just my opinions. I limit my +P handloads to the +P pressure limit of 20,000 psi in any of my .38 spls. Even my two 38/44s. I have several .357s, all N frames so don't need to hot rod my .38s 
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I'm sure a lot depends upon the specific alloy and heat treatments, but unless I have been reading gun things wrong for the past... nearly 40 years now, stainless steels used in firearms is for corrosion resistance, but for durability, carbon steel is actually better.
Plenty of stories of stainless firearms developing looser tolerances with significant use. Plenty of stories of stainless rifle barrels having throat erosion and bore wear sooner than comparable carbon steel barrels.
Plenty of stories of stainless firearms developing looser tolerances with significant use. Plenty of stories of stainless rifle barrels having throat erosion and bore wear sooner than comparable carbon steel barrels.
bamabiker
Member
They are both J frames. Why would you want to?
If you want a more powerful 38 get a 357 magnum.
If you want a more powerful 38 get a 357 magnum.
I’ve put plenty of +P ammo thru my 1970-vintage Model 60. Its a steel frame, it’s fine.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
Well it will be up to you to shoot "more powerful" loads. From what I have seen is most people shoot five or ten rounds for practice with a snubby and call it quits for the day.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
In the early 1970s the stainless steel revolvers had a bad reputation in Law Enforcement. Some lazy cops had the opinion they were 'maintenance free' but its stainless not rust proof.
Looking at my logs, when I have shot my 640-1, range sessions ran from 5 to 100 rounds. The 100 round session was actually the first outing with the 640-1 and the ammo was 110 grain JHP 357 Magnum.
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Been awhile, but if I remember correctly from my college days, properly alloyed and heat treated steel can be stronger than stainless. I have to say though, before taking those classes, my intuitiveness said stainless would be stronger, but that isn't the case. I myself do prefer stainless for maintenance reasons. I have the strength of materials text book in the attic somewhere...
Look at the narrowest part of the wall thickness of the model 60 cylinder and then compare to say a 686. Then rethink whether you should give it a diet of heavy loads.
Rosewood
Look at the narrowest part of the wall thickness of the model 60 cylinder and then compare to say a 686. Then rethink whether you should give it a diet of heavy loads.
Rosewood
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Pointblank2U
US Veteran
I have come to the conclusion that everything about most modern and the latest greatest ammunition to come down the pike for revolvers is a hustle and a scam.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wtdd6NMNk28"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wtdd6NMNk28[/ame]
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wtdd6NMNk28"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wtdd6NMNk28[/ame]
I haven't done any testing, but I'd bet that regular and +P ammo would almost be the same out of such a short barreled gun. Whether you have 2 grains, or 2 pounds of powder in the case, you can only burn so much of it in the barrel, where it would make a difference on velocity.
In my Taurus 605 with the 2" barrel. I did do some testing. With full power mag loads using the 125XTP, I was hitting about 1225 FPS with huge fireball and flash. I loaded up some with Longshot powder and the velocity dropped to around 1100 with significant less flash and blast. That is what rides in the 605 now.
I do not think you will get anywhere near 1100 FPS with a +p 38 special in a 2" barrel. Charts I am seeing is 8-900 at best.
Rosewood
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flintsghost
Member
I don't think I would shoot a +p+ rated load through a model 60. However, in my Pre R serial model 60 I shot and carried 135 grain Speer Gold dot that were +P. I never had a problem with them at all. However I didn't go to the range every day and shoot 50 to 100 rds through the gun either. As a norm I shot it once or twice a year about 10 rds just to verify the sights and it was working fine.
I have chronographed a few different .38 spl 125 gr JHP +P factory loads out of my model 60-7. Velocities ran from around 850-875 fps. Not very impressive and I would not expect much if any expansion and not very deep penetration. My preference for +P SD ammo is a hand load with a typical hard alloy cast bullet. A 158 gr SWC can reach about 900 fps and would be better than factory 125 gr JHPs in my opinion. A 140 gr Truncated flat nose can reach over 1,000 fps.
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I am not a metallurgist however from what I understand most stainless steel contains Chromium and is a bit harder and more brittle than carbon steel. Theoretically, a stainless revolver would stretch less however it would be a little more brittle. The carbon steel revolver while not as hard might stretch first.
At the end of the day, both revolvers are tested to exceed their rated pressures and unless you constantly shot the snot out of them with heavy +P ammo, I doubt you would have any serious issues. That said, the hotter the load the faster wear will show. Conversely, the milder the load the less a revolver would stretch, go out of time and wear prematurely. That would apply to any gun, machine or piece of equipment as well.
At the end of the day, both revolvers are tested to exceed their rated pressures and unless you constantly shot the snot out of them with heavy +P ammo, I doubt you would have any serious issues. That said, the hotter the load the faster wear will show. Conversely, the milder the load the less a revolver would stretch, go out of time and wear prematurely. That would apply to any gun, machine or piece of equipment as well.
IIRC I've always understood stainless to be softer than carbon steel.
Isn't pretty much all spring steel carbon steel, rather than stainless?
But if anybody around here will knows the answer to this question I'm betting it will be Steelslaver.
I'm surprised he hasn't posted in this thread yet, and look forward to his answer if/when he does...
Isn't pretty much all spring steel carbon steel, rather than stainless?
But if anybody around here will knows the answer to this question I'm betting it will be Steelslaver.
I'm surprised he hasn't posted in this thread yet, and look forward to his answer if/when he does...
