Model 60 cylinder problem

[Angel Eyes]

I am trying to fix a Model 60 cylinder problem. With the cylinder closed & locked and the hammer down the cylinder will rotate clockwise with moderate pressure. It locks up OK in double and single action. I have cleaned it and oiled it. Polished the cylinder stop; and the spring and pressure are about the same as a 36 I have.

Any ideas where to start?

 

[Angel Eyes]

I am trying to fix a Model 60 cylinder problem. With the cylinder closed & locked and the hammer down the cylinder will rotate clockwise with moderate pressure. It locks up OK in double and single action. I have cleaned it and oiled it. Polished the cylinder stop; and the spring and pressure are about the same as a 36 I have.

Any ideas where to start?

 

[S&W revolverman]

Angel Eyes,

You say you've cleaned this gun, which I assume means you have totally dissasembled it and cleaned it. So, I'd start with a new cylinder stop spring. If this doesn't correct the problem, then a new cylinder stop.

Hope this helps
chris

 

[Alk8944]

Polished the cylinder stop????? You probably caused the problem yourself. Buy a copy of "The S&W Revolver, a Shop Manual" by Kuhnhasen, study the part on fitting a cylinder stop and then buy the part from Brownell's or S&W customer service.

 

[Angel Eyes]

Alk8944:
The gun did not work when I got it into the shop. Cleaning and oiling and polishing actually helped a little.

I have done many Smith action jobs and ALWAYS polish the stop.

I have the book.

And you say to "fit" it (which is metal removal) but warn me of polishing it??????

S&W revolverman:
I hate to start replacing parts. It cost me money if it don't work. And this gun although it is a no-dash 60 has not been shot much at all. I can't imagine how it would come from the factory that way but I also can't understand how it could get damaged.

 

[Mickstix]

Can ya take the side plate off and see if the cylinder stop is engaging properly? With the side off and the cylinder open, hold the cyl. release back and slowly cock the hammer. Should let ya see if it's working correctly or not. As the above posted mentioned, match that up with the section on the cylinder stop (in the book) and see if it's timing is correct and it's sitting the proper heigh above the window in frames floor.. Should give ya an idea of what's happening. Maybe there's something keeping the stop from fully engaging? Fill us in if ya find anything suspect! Good Luck!

 

[Angel Eyes]

I fixed it.

I removed a little metal from the top of the cylinder stop. 1st time one cylinder worked 2nd time 2 worked and after a few more times; all 5 worked.

Still confused on why it was like this.? It was not shot much and even if it was I
don't see how that could do it.? So it must have come from the factory that
way.? But no one thought to fix it in 30 years?????

 

[S&W revolverman]

Without having this particular gun in hand, and it is "hard" to fix a gun over the phone, I'm going to say now, the left side of the cylinder stop needed a little stoning at the top corner, just to break a burr. Common problem.

By taking some material off of the top, as described, you have done what I have just described. However, not the top needed stoned, only the left side (and very lightly) of the top corner of the cylinder stop. Stoning off the top, will in time of use, descrease the cylinder stop to engage into the cylinder notches. By stoning off of the top, your file/stone gained enough clearance for the cylinder stop to engage properly, but probably angled to the left side.
This may be clear as mud, but if I had the gun in hand I could fully show what is described.

Hard to type out in full detail, but from what you descrbied, not a real huge problem. Only a small fitting problem from factory fitter being in hurry to get this revolver fitted in fiteen minutes (which is what they used to be required to do).

Hope this helps
chris

 

[Alk8944]

Originally posted by Angel Eyes:
Alk8944:
The gun did not work when I got it into the shop. Cleaning and oiling and polishing actually helped a little.

I have done many Smith action jobs and ALWAYS polish the stop.

I have the book.

And you say to "fit" it (which is metal removal) but warn me of polishing it??????

S&W revolverman:
I hate to start replacing parts. It cost me money if it don't work. And this gun although it is a no-dash 60 has not been shot much at all. I can't imagine how it would come from the factory that way but I also can't understand how it could get damaged.

First, you didn't give any indication that you already know what you are doing!!

Second, when most people say they "polished" something they have gone way overboard and rounded corners, which would have caused what you describe.

Third, you didn't mention you had Kuhnhausen, and if you do, reading it should have given you all the information to repair it and you wouldn't have been asking this question.

Fourth, this is an internet forum, the information you get is frequently worth just what you paid for it, often less. There are many knowledgible people here, but many, who don't let that get in their way, don't know their butt from a hole in the ground when it comes to repairing S&W revolvers.

Like S&W revolverman said, it is hard to diagnose a problem over the phone, that is why I gave you a reference which is authoritative instead of making guesses.

FYI I have been smithing S&W revolvers for nearly 50 years and won't even try to explain to anyone how to fix something based on what is posted. First, I have no idea you are accurately describing the problem, and, second, no idea you would have the slightest idea what I was telling you.