model 617 questions

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comfortsource

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Good morning all,

I currently own a 4" 617 in a 10-shot. I love the balance of the 4" barrel. Currently am looking at another 617, however it is a 6".......and blued. It appears to have an aluminum cylinder and I was curious if anyone had any insight into a couple things.

Is the 6" going to feel muzzle heavy as some have indicated?

Is the aluminum cylinder going to be alright since it's simply 22 rimfire?

Any feedback is always appreciated and don't forget all of our "Mrs" this weekend!

best,

J
 
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If it’s blued, it should be a model 17 without the full length under lug and shouldn’t feel a forward heavy as a 6” model 617. No experience with aluminum cylinders. Is it a 6 shot cylinder?
 
The aluminum cylinders were not very popular and caused cartridge sticking issues even more then steel cylinders. More trouble then they are worth...
 
My 10-shot 617 with an aluminum cylinder has been perfect, for me. It has a 6" barrel, and I think the balance is very good. I have less problem with fired cartridge shells sticking with it than my 50's model K22.

I had fired it over 3000 times before I moved to my current location, where my shooting is very limited. I have too many guns, so it doesn't get shot often anymore. 1st world problem. :)
 
Later 17 w/ full lug, 6 shot. I never saw a blued 17 fitted with an aluminum cylinder. IIRC, the ten shot aluminum cylinders were fitted to 617-2's. Some had issues & factory replaced with S.S. cylinders.
KSyOFCcl.jpg


You will occasionally find 17's fitted with stainless cylinders, sometimes when owner changed to .22 Mag.
 
Personally, although I currently own just a 4 inch bbl 617, I previously owned a 6 inch bbl 617 and the blued steel counterpart 17-6, and I liked the heft of those 6 inch bbl revolvers with full underlug. As far as the aluminum cylinder, I would avoid that myself.
 
It's a 6" 10-shot as is my SS version. However, it does show an aluminum cylinder.... I believe it's a -8 version no lock.

full underlug. Somewhat of an oddity I'm guessing.

J
 
firstly, let me apologize with my nomenclature.

The gun I'm referencing for advice is a 6" full lug 17-8 blue... with a 10 shot aluminum cylinder. I mistakenly left the 617 label on this in previous question. It is a no lock. But I simply need to know what to do about the 10 shot aluminum cylinder. If I need to stay away, I will. It just looks too nice to not have as companion to my 617 10 shot....
 
I can't help with the aluminum cylinder, except that they were only available for a short time and discontinued by S&W and many were replaced with stainless (on the 617). Since the factory basically lost trust in them, I wouldn't have trust in them.

As far as the 6" full lug barrel goes, it is great, I have a 617-6 and have had a 17-6 6' full lug, and both are the most accurate S&W's I have owned. If you are intending to shoot one handed for competitive Bullseye, you may find it muzzle heavy for awhile until you build up the strength in your shooting arm and it becomes normal.
 
You could always contact Smith and wesson and ask if they would replace the cylinder with a stainless one before you buy it...
 
Update:

Spoke with the Mother Ship, they explained if I was going to target shoot or competitive shoot, I should swap cylinder for SS version.

Otherwise the AL version would be fine.

If I swapped for a SS version cylinder, its a blues or matte finish. What are options available to make everything match?

J
 
Unfortunately S&W in my opinion missed he boat. They only briefly offered a ten shot blued 10 shot with the alloy cylinder and that horrible full lug barrel.
I detest stainless and full barrel legs, but the ten shot cylinder would be nice.
A gun akin to the very limited run 617 mountain gun in blued would be great.
For now I make do just fine with my 1960’s era 17-3 with a six shot cylinder.
I am. Dry disappointed smith does not bring out anything new except in stainless
 
MajorD said:
Unfortunately S&W in my opinion missed he boat. They only briefly offered a ten shot blued 10 shot with the alloy cylinder and that horrible full lug barrel.
I detest stainless and full barrel legs, but the ten shot cylinder would be nice.
A gun akin to the very limited run 617 mountain gun in blued would be great.
For now I make do just fine with my 1960’s era 17-3 with a six shot cylinder.
I am. Dry disappointed smith does not bring out anything new except in stainless
Click to expand...

I love blued revolvers with only the little guard for the ejector rod as well, but this revolver hits me good in the feels. The 4" barrel to me is "where it's at" - the 6" is more accurate, and maybe more "cool" but I love a 4" K-frame.
image6.jpeg
 
MajorD said:
Unfortunately S&W in my opinion missed he boat. They only briefly offered a ten shot blued 10 shot with the alloy cylinder and that horrible full lug barrel.
I detest stainless and full barrel legs, but the ten shot cylinder would be nice.
A gun akin to the very limited run 617 mountain gun in blued would be great.
For now I make do just fine with my 1960’s era 17-3 with a six shot cylinder.
I am. Dry disappointed smith does not bring out anything new except in stainless
Click to expand...
Big reason is two fold. #1 most people don't want blued guns over stainless. More importantly, bluing creates hazardous waste that must be dealt with.
Me, I LOVE the look of old blued revolvers. BUT I only buy stainless simply for the ease of maintenence. Rememver first and foremost, bluing was designed as a rust preventative. Stainless does it better.
Much like case hardening which put a hardened layer on what was then soft steel. Wasn't for decorative purposes. Today it isn't needed. Thart doesn;t mean that I don't drool over Turnbull case hardened/blue steel Rugers.
 
To answer your question about being forward heavy, yes, she definitely is. However, if you get used to it, shes a mega tac driver. Just won my latest steel challenge match with the 6" version! My best score yet. Although Im sure the 4" version would fly even quicker and sometimes wish I got the 4"

maSDCPr.png
 
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