Model 625 Performance Center & H.R. 218

[David Sinko]

Your new 625 will disassemble the same way as an old one. The frame mounted firing pin and spring are held in place by a pin that is easily removed. Disassemble slowly so that you do not lose any parts and it is easy to see how the firing pin is held in the frame.

I have owned two revolvers with frame mounted firing pins. Both were absolutely reliable with all primers as they came from the factory. Actually both were over-sprung and would still fire all primers even when spring tension was slightly reduced. Install completely stock components and go from there. You will need to eliminate all firearm variables before you begin to blame the ammo. Making the gun completely stock and using the "bad" ammo seems the most logical way to proceed. That you just might happen to have a defective or compromised 1911 as well doesn't surprise me one bit.

Dave Sinko

 

[MifflinKid]

I have dvds by Jerry Miculak showing S&W revolver disassembly. Unfortunately they cover the external firing pins. Could you suggest where I could learn about the internal firing pin?
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David Sinko answered that one. If you understand Jerry's DVD and you have a proper set of screwdriver tips you'll be fine. I used a small needle nose plier to pull the pin that retains the firing pin. Just don't let the factory firing pin get away from you as it is lightly spring loaded.

I polished the Apex Tactical XP firing pin using some Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish before installing it. Also, while the firing pin was out of the frame I took a small drill bit and ran it through the firing pin bushing hole to remove any burrs. I just twirled it with thumb and finger.

I've read that S&W now puts slightly shorter firing pins in their guns to help them pass some state-level drop safety tests. I have replaced all of my newer S&W internal firing pins with the Apex Tactical XP firing pin and springs. As I recall the AT XP firing pins are about .005" to .006" longer than the stock firing pins. I doesn't seem like much but it does the trick.
Oh yeah, the AT XP spring is made of thiner wire so that probably allows the firing pin to move farther and faster, improving ignition.

 

[carl3989]

Thanks Guys.

David Sinko answered that one. If you understand Jerry's DVD and you have a proper set of screwdriver tips you'll be fine. I used a small needle nose plier to pull the pin that retains the firing pin. Just don't let the factory firing pin get away from you as it is lightly spring loaded.

I polished the Apex Tactical XP firing pin using some Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish before installing it. Also, while the firing pin was out of the frame I took a small drill bit and ran it through the firing pin bushing hole to remove any burrs. I just twirled it with thumb and finger.

I've read that S&W now puts slightly shorter firing pins in their guns to help them pass some state-level drop safety tests. I have replaced all of my newer S&W internal firing pins with the Apex Tactical XP firing pin and springs. As I recall the AT XP firing pins are about .005" to .006" longer than the stock firing pins. I doesn't seem like much but it does the trick.
Oh yeah, the AT XP spring is made of thiner wire so that probably allows the firing pin to move farther and faster, improving ignition.

I'll have to give that a try.