Model 63 cylinder not turning

[Hoppe's#9]

I am pretty new to shooting 22lr revolvers and I had my Model 63,no dash at the range.It was fine in single action but after about 50 rounds in double action it got progressively harder to pull the trigger and the cylinder got hard to turn.This usually happened after the 3rd or 4th round in the cylinder was fired.I was using Winchester and CCI blazer.Also it was really hard to press down on the extractor rod to eject cartridges after about 100 rounds.I had to push down real hard with the cardboard from the ammo box.I would like to avoid sending it to S&W but is this a matter for a gunsmith?It was dead on in single action but after beating up my hand to eject the round I began to miss my 686.

 

[srsmyth]

Sounds to me like it needs a good cleaning with Hoppe's#9. 22's can be dirty to shoot and gum up the revolver with shooting. My 63 does that too. Take a close look at it and you'll probably see some built up powder residue.
Hoppe's#9 dissolves that pretty well with cotton patches and a bore brush, I'd do that before sending it anywhere.
Steve

 

[diamonback68]

#9, also make sure you clean well the charge hole recesses and behind and under the ejector star (toothbrush works good), a little bit of crud there can easily bind things up. If you are not familiar with .22 ammo, a lot, but not all is dirtier with lubed bullets and un-burned powder residue as compared to centerfire cartridges.

 

[tekarra]

Good advice given above. My 63 gets dirty quite quickly and always gets a good cleaning after shooting.

 

[TNDave]

Some times it doesn't take very much crud under the extractor star to slow down the cylinder. Make sure it is clean and dry under there.

 

[Steve in Vermont]

Same problem with my 63. Was worse with CCI, much better with Federal Bulk. A very good cleaning helps, especially with ejection problems. I believe the primary problem has to do with tight tolerances and the fact that .22 ammo is just dirty. If anyone has had to send this gun in please let us know if there is a "fix", other than cleaning.

 

[H Richard]

A brass bore brush is a necessity to take to the range if you plan to fire a .22 revolver very much, (and who doesn't). A little cleaner, about any CLP or Hoppe's, through each chamber and brush a few times then dry them. The High Velocity rounds tend to stick more than the standard velocity in my guns, as they have a higher pressure and swell out the cases a little more. If there is any residue in the chambers the tightly swelling cases get harder to extract. Also, it can make them harder to load, and if you don't push the rounds fully into the chambers that can cause the cylinder from turning.

 

[regmag-621]

I have had the same problem with a Mod 63, used "RWS pistol match" ammo, which is produced in Germany. Changed to Remington, it became better, but not sufficient. The casematerial is too thin, and so the head of the case deforms, that it can only slip hardly behind the recoil shield !!
So what to ??
I took india ink and blackened the whole inner rearside to figure out where the case was jamming. The case jammed (after 4 or 5 shots) in the upper part of the shield, one could see a white line.
Then I used a "hairpin spacer" translated from German into english and found out that the rear shield wasen't flat. So I took a needle file and filed and polished it very careful flat. The revolver feeds now every ammo brand.

Best regards from Germany.
Paul SWCA #1354

ps. I hope that you understand my poor english description.

 

[Mike McLellan]

Well, everybody's right. The only thing I have to add, is to try Target loads or Standard loads. You will see a difference in ejecting spent casings.