Hello all.
I just recently acquired a model 64-3... when I bought it I knew about the end shake and cylinder was binding when opening the cylinder.
I checked out the cylinder binding issue yesterday, it was hanging up by the ejector rod (of course I gave it a thorough cleaning before I did anything). I took the cylinder apart and slowly removed material from the extractor rod collar on the non flared end. Finally got it where I wanted it and now it opens nicely. I read several posts and this apparently is a known issue, and it seems like this was a viable fix, hopefully I did ok here??
Next question is the revolver has some end shake ( not real bad) but also I didn't notice till I got the gun home it is out of time on a couple of cylinders. What is the recommended way of fixing timing issues? Would I want to replace the hand? Or can I modify the current hand?
Also I just read that excessive end shake can lead to timing issues, should I get the end shake fixed as well....again the end shake did not look real bad, but it was there! Also the gap appears to change as the hammer is cocked, will correcting end shake fix this problem as well? Also any opinions on how to correct end shake either shims or a crane stretcher? Or would it be easier to buy a used crane and see if that fixes the end shake? (Assuming that the crane is not hand fitted)
Sorry about lumping all questions together....
Thanks. Jim.
I just recently acquired a model 64-3... when I bought it I knew about the end shake and cylinder was binding when opening the cylinder.
I checked out the cylinder binding issue yesterday, it was hanging up by the ejector rod (of course I gave it a thorough cleaning before I did anything). I took the cylinder apart and slowly removed material from the extractor rod collar on the non flared end. Finally got it where I wanted it and now it opens nicely. I read several posts and this apparently is a known issue, and it seems like this was a viable fix, hopefully I did ok here??
Next question is the revolver has some end shake ( not real bad) but also I didn't notice till I got the gun home it is out of time on a couple of cylinders. What is the recommended way of fixing timing issues? Would I want to replace the hand? Or can I modify the current hand?
Also I just read that excessive end shake can lead to timing issues, should I get the end shake fixed as well....again the end shake did not look real bad, but it was there! Also the gap appears to change as the hammer is cocked, will correcting end shake fix this problem as well? Also any opinions on how to correct end shake either shims or a crane stretcher? Or would it be easier to buy a used crane and see if that fixes the end shake? (Assuming that the crane is not hand fitted)
Sorry about lumping all questions together....
Thanks. Jim.
