Model 65-3 cylinder stop issue

[infrared35]

Howdy; been a while since I've been on here so I apologize if this has been covered before, but I dug around a bit and didn't see anything specifically addressing it.

I just bought a moderately used 65-3 because I couldn't say no to the price; I suspect it was priced attractively because the seller was having issues with it. I'm not afraid of troubleshooting or even taking these things apart, so I wasn't worried about wrenching on it if I needed to, but this is a new issue for me.

The trigger pull has a definite hitch in it, and it's particularly bad on one chamber. Running the gun through some tests, it seems that the cylinder stop isn't retracting enough to get out of the way completely as the cylinder wants to start turning. The stop still sticks up through the frame a little through the entire trigger press, where on my other K Frames it goes down flush with the frame and does so very quickly so the cylinder can start turning.

I'm guessing I need a new cylinder stop which isn't a big deal, but I wanted to run it by the group in case there was something I haven't considered. I've had the sideplate off and the trigger out and the stop seems to move freely; it just doesn't go down as far as it should or as quickly as it should. It didn't look like the trigger nose had been modified or anything like that.

As to why it seems worse on one particular chamber, that has yet to be seen. I'm thinking maybe a burr in the corresponding stop notch? Maybe a burr on a lug of the ejector star that makes it want to rotate a little sooner than the other chambers? The ejector rod is nice and straight and the cylinder moves freely otherwise, and yes, I've cleaned the heck out of the cylinder and ejector star and where they meet.

 

[Vtgw938]

if you want to try a different one I can send you one. $0 special.

 

[snw19_357]

...so I wasn't worried about wrenching on it...

What part of a S&W revolver uses a wrench?!
Just kidding but you did make me laugh out loud.

Have you observed how the trigger and stop interact with the rebound slide and spring installed (don't need hammer in)?
You mentioned the stop moves freely. Does the stop stick up through the frame when you 'move' it without the trigger, etc. installed?
That cylinder stop spring can be difficult for some to install and tends to get bent/pinched/etc. if someone before you struggled to install it.

 

[infrared35]

if you want to try a different one I can send you one. $0 special.

That would be much appreciated, thanks!

What part of a S&W revolver uses a wrench?!
Just kidding but you did make me laugh out loud.

Have you observed how the trigger and stop interact with the rebound slide and spring installed (don't need hammer in)?
You mentioned the stop moves freely. Does the stop stick up through the frame when you 'move' it without the trigger, etc. installed?
That cylinder stop spring can be difficult for some to install and tends to get bent/pinched/etc. if someone before you struggled to install it.

I haven't played around with the trigger without the hammer in, but the stop did seem to move freely without the trigger and it stuck up out of the frame just fine.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Sometimes there just isn't enough engagement between the trigger and stop, due to part tolerances or modifications. To get more engagement, you can use a round (rat tail) needle file and make the slot in the stop longer towards the front of the gun. This allows the stop to get closer to the trigger, then the trigger will act on it for a slightly longer time and possibly fix the problem. I would still take Vgtw938 up on his generous offer of another one.

Check the cylinder notches closely for burrs. Do not file them off. Peen the material back where it came from.

 

[infrared35]

Check the cylinder notches closely for burrs. Do not file them off. Peen the material back where it came from.

Will do; is there a good guide posted somewhere for doing that the right way?

 

[chief38]

My take (without seeing the gun) is that the Cylinder Stop wasn't fitted correctly. I highly doubt that any revolver is produced so that the cylinder spins 100% true and that the cuts on the cylinder are all precisely the same exact measurement! No matter what make or model, there has to be some degree of being slightly out of round and slight variations. If the cylinder stop was not fit properly, a thousandth or two of an inch could possibly make the difference and cause the issue. If you can't fit the CS to work, I would replace it. That said, sometimes even a new one needs to be fit.

There might another cause as well but without having it in my hands, I can't really be sure. Just out of curiosity, has this revolver been worked on? I'd always suggest looking at the last thing done before the issue - but being new to you that is hard to know.

 

[infrared35]

There might another cause as well but without having it in my hands, I can't really be sure. Just out of curiosity, has this revolver been worked on? I'd always suggest looking at the last thing done before the issue - but being new to you that is hard to know.

I'm at least the fourth owner so who knows. The sideplate screws came out pretty easily which suggests that someone had been in there before, but I didn't see any of the usual signs of prying on the plate or anything like that. And it was dirty in there, but it didn't look like anything had been tampered with. I'll pop it back open and try to get some photos.

 

[infrared35]

Just some comparison shots: The Model 10 at rest, and the Model 10 just starting to pull the trigger. Note how little the hammer has moved, and the cylinder stop has dropped down flush with the frame already. On the 65, you can see it when at rest, and with the the trigger pulled until it binds up. Note how much farther back the hammer is, and that you can still see the tip of the cylinder stop still engaged with the cylinder. Kinda hard to see, but there it is.

 

[infrared35]

And some shots during disassembly.

 

[infrared35]

And the cylinder stop, which looks a little chewed up but not in a way that would seem to cause this particular problem. And then a shot of the frame.

 

[armorer951]

The bevel on the cylinder stop is just a bit too short. You can fit a new stop, or try what Protocall suggested which is to lengthen the slot provided for the frame stud in the stop itself.

You will need a small (2mm) jeweler's (rat tail) round file. remove a bit of material from the front (as in "front" of the slot when sitting in the gun) of the slot in the stop to make the slot just a bit longer. It won't need much. This will allow the stop to move a bit further back toward the trigger hook. When the trigger hook moves down as the trigger is pulled, the hook will engage the stop a bit deeper, and the stop will go down out of the way faster.
If enough material is not available, you can always fit a new stop.





Carter

 

[infrared35]

Makes sense, thanks! I'll try the new stop when it comes in and go from there. Here's a photo of everything as it sat when I took the sideplate off.

 

[infrared35]

Joy! Vtgw938's cylinder stop arrived, and it dropped right in with no fitting. Just dry firing it, it seems to run like a top now. Live fire will tell for sure, but as far as I can see there's no reason it won't work 100%. Thanks! This means a lot to me, you have no idea.

 

[infrared35]

Just did a quick live fire test and it ran great! Thanks again, Vtgw938!

 

[Vtgw938]

Just got a very cool token of appreciation in the mail from infrared35. Thank you sir.

Evan

 

[infrared35]

Just got a very cool token of appreciation in the mail from infrared35. Thank you sir.

Evan

I really appreciate you helping me get this 65 up and running! These forums truly are a treasure trove.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

Check the extractor, by wath you say that is your problem. Plus look at the slot on the cylinder for burrs or ding on it. this is what I would do first.