Model 65 extractor questions. Ratchet filing.

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First I’m no gunsmith. But I’m pretty mechanically apt as I work on engines for a living for close to 30 years now. My model 65 is a bit slow in timing. I understand the hand is worn or ratchets worn. So I ordered an oversized hand. No problem stoning it to fit the window. Just took my time. I can see through the window which ratchets need filed and which edge. I do have an armorers manual. But instead of modifying my extractor I thought id just buy one to work with. My question is will 38 extractor fit and if not does it have to be for a recessed cylinder? Or should I just file the original? It carries up great now but the ratchets are just a tad too wide on 4 holes. I’d say around.001-.0015. Just enough to drag the hand. Thank you for any assistance.
 
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Before you file anything, try dry firing it a few hundred times. The hand is hardened, the ratchet teeth are not. Dry firing it will allow the hand and ratchets to fit themselves to each other.

I did this with a Model 1950 that had a bulged chamber and had the cylinder replaced with one from a 24-3. Post 18 in this thread describes how I approached the issue you have now.
 
It works perfect on 4. Just a tad sticky on 2 chambers. Just enough the trigger won’t return but it falls right out with little pressure now. I’ll try some cutting oil tomorrow. I don’t think I have a stronger spring but it’s working pretty well. Thanks guys. I appreciate it. I’ll add that I don’t have the hammer installed. I know it doesn’t hurt I just can’t get past my upbringing about dry firing over and over. lol.
 
So you started out with 4 sticky chambers and now you only have 2...that's a good improvement. The only reason I put in the extra heavy rebound spring was so that I didn't have to manually reset the trigger as often. I measured my success by going to progressively lighter rebound springs until the trigger would reset with a 12 pound spring.

Watching a movie helped me....I picked one character and did a dry-fire Mozambique drill on that character every time he appeared on the screen. Use triple verified empty cases or snap caps to support the ejector star and make sure that it doesn't move while the pieces are wearing in to each other. You'll get there.
 
Be sure to check for the correct rear gauge or headspace before proceeding with altering the hand or ratchets. Incorrect headspace (too much) can affect carry up.

Also, place an empty casing or two in the cylinder when checking for DCU or cylinder carry up. When not aligned with empty casings, there can be quite a bit of side to side (rotational) gauge on the extractor when it is fully down, even with both extractor alignment pins in place. This extractor movement can affect how the hand interfaces with each ratchet.



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Headspace was fine. I had empties in it. I did as suggested with cutting fluid and some dry fire. After I came home from work I had it down to two that would barely stick the trigger. I made 4 passes on each of those 2 ratchets with my fine stone. It operates perfectly. Tight lockup. Timing is spot on. Cleaned thoroughly with hoppes 9. Letting it dry some and I’ll reassemble it and test it out. Thank you for your help. I really appreciate it.
 
It works perfect on 4. Just a tad sticky on 2 chambers. Just enough the trigger won’t return but it falls right out with little pressure now. I’ll try some cutting oil tomorrow. I don’t think I have a stronger spring but it’s working pretty well. Thanks guys. I appreciate it. I’ll add that I don’t have the hammer installed. I know it doesn’t hurt I just can’t get past my upbringing about dry firing over and over. lol.
What about using snap caps? I still use them if I dryfire my 357's a lot. Like when trying to break in a new trigger.
 
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