model 66-3 2.5"

[18DAI]

I'd not worry too much about scratches. One of the great things about stainless revolvers, is that they are the same color all the way through.

Down the road you will have all kinds of scr.........character marks, from carrying it off duty.

Way down the road, as you are preparing to retire and put that snub in a shadow box with your shield and ID, a few minutes with some Scotchbrite pads and Mothers mag polish will blend the most serious character marks away.

Enjoy that 66 snub for what it is, one of the finest carry guns ever made. Regards 18DAI

 

[ericlosh]

I'd not worry too much about scratches. One of the great things about stainless revolvers, is that they are the same color all the way through.

Down the road you will have all kinds of scr.........character marks, from carrying it off duty.

Way down the road, as you are preparing to retire and put that snub in a shadow box with your shield and ID, a few minutes with some Scotchbrite pads and Mothers mag polish will blend the most serious character marks away.

Enjoy that 66 snub for what it is, one of the finest carry guns ever made. Regards 18DAI

Thanks alot. My interview went well i believe, ill find out how well next week or so.

 

[DeafSmith]

To fix scratches disassemble the gun and use a combination of 000 (very fine) stainless steel wool pads and stainless steel polish. After degreasing just soak the pad in the polish and polish away while it's commercal time on TV (but with something under it so the wfe does not freek out!)

Deaf

 

[ericlosh]

To fix scratches disassemble the gun and use a combination of 000 (very fine) stainless steel wool pads and stainless steel polish. After degreasing just soak the pad in the polish and polish away while it's commercal time on TV (but with something under it so the wfe does not freek out!)

Deaf

Does that include taking off the side plate and all the stuff under it?
I have a feeling it does.

 

[Sportsterguy]

As 18DAI stated you have one of the finest SD revolvers ever made. He knows his 66's and is a great guy who will always help you out. Make sure you listen up on ejecting them cases. I thoroughly clean my cylinders and bore with Hoppes #9. Afterwards once all the gunk is removed and it's really clean apply some Militec-1 to the chambers and bore using their instructions. Mine eject with no problems at all from my two 2.5" 66-2's and 66-3 snubs.

Congrats on your career choice. Very noble job. Hope you make the cut.

Dry fire the heck outta that baby with snap caps then put in some serious practice at the range with it, BEFORE you start packing it. It will smooth out the trigger and you'll learn trigger control and that all important front sight. If you're using .357's practice mainly with them as the recoil is way more stout than a .38. I'd load it with some 135 grain Short Barrel Speer Gold Dots .38+P's if it was mine as they recoil less and allow more precise shooting and quicker follow up shots. 18DAI tuned me onto the 135 gr. SB loads so I'm using them instead of my normal 158 gr. GD's in my .357's. Accuracy always wins and you're limited on shots with the revolver! You also need to practice your speed reloads as six rounds can be to few for a seious encounter. Took me many hours of practice to get quick doing it. Go to You Tube and search for revolver speed reloads. Some great videos on there.

Here is Speer's website so you can read what I'm writing. Their ammo is the only brand I use for SD and has been for years!

Speer Ammo - Short Barrel

That's a $500.0 to $600.00 revolver you have there. I'd suggest you slap on some Ahrends or aftermarket grips on it for a better grip as the stock ones are too small IMO. I stay away from rubber as it sticks to clothing on your draws, another technique you need to master.


Good luck and stay safe.

 

[ericlosh]

As 18DAI stated you have one of the finest SD revolvers ever made. He knows his 66's and is a great guy who will always help you out. Make sure you listen up on ejecting them cases. I thoroughly clean my cylinders and bore with Hoppes #9. Afterwards once all the gunk is removed and it's really clean apply some Militec-1 to the chambers and bore using their instructions. Mine eject with no problems at all from my two 2.5" 66-2's and 66-3 snubs.

Congrats on your career choice. Very noble job. Hope you make the cut.

Dry fire the heck outta that baby with snap caps then put in some serious practice at the range with it, BEFORE you start packing it. It will smooth out the trigger and you'll learn trigger control and that all important front sight. If you're using .357's practice mainly with them as the recoil is way more stout than a .38. I'd load it with some 135 grain Short Barrel Speer Gold Dots .38+P's if it was mine as they recoil less and allow more precise shooting and quicker follow up shots. 18DAI tuned me onto the 135 gr. SB loads so I'm using them instead of my normal 158 gr. GD's in my .357's. Accuracy always wins and you're limited on shots with the revolver! You also need to practice your speed reloads as six rounds can be to few for a seious encounter. Took me many hours of practice to get quick doing it. Go to You Tube and search for revolver speed reloads. Some great videos on there.

Here is Speer's website so you can read what I'm writing. Their ammo is the only brand I use for SD and has been for years!

Speer Ammo - Short Barrel

That's a $500.0 to $600.00 revolver you have there. I'd suggest you slap on some Ahrends or aftermarket grips on it for a better grip as the stock ones are too small IMO. I stay away from rubber as it sticks to clothing on your draws, another technique you need to master.


Good luck and stay safe.

Thanks alot, I've already started practicing the ejecting the spent brass the way I've been told.

Any idea how to get the carbon off the front of the cylinder? I can only get about half off. Would a copper brush with some hoppes #9 do the trick or is that stuff just a fact of life if you shoot your gun? Never mind, found some stuff.

 

[DeafSmith]

Does that include taking off the side plate and all the stuff under it?
I have a feeling it does.

Well, if just the barrel is scrached up you don't have to. And if the cylinder is just scrached then you can take the forward screw out of the side place and the whole cylinder will come out.

But if there are alot of 'em, well yes, take the whole gun apart.

 

[ericlosh]

Well, if just the barrel is scrached up you don't have to. And if the cylinder is just scrached then you can take the forward screw out of the side place and the whole cylinder will come out.

But if there are alot of 'em, well yes, take the whole gun apart.

Scratches are right above the triggerguard, under the front of the cylinder on the left side, and on the bottom of the side plate between the stocks and trigger guard on the right. I'm thinking I'm gonna see if this gun really becomes a daily carry for me and see how I like it and maybe a couple years down the road do the polishing job on it.