The cylinder has been getting difficult to open for a while now. The rear of the cylinder will open some but ejector rod is sticking in the front on the spring loaded plunger. This is a 2.5 inch barrel. Any ideas how to cure this problem would be appreciated.
Model 66 Ejector Rod
- Thread starter VetteBill
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
bigggbbruce
Member
That's the symptom of a loose rod. Start by taking fully apart, clean and reassemble.
Should be good to go.
Should be good to go.
This can also be a symptom of end shake on the cylinder or yoke. Even a small amount of further intrusion by the end of the ejector rod on the locking bolt can cause the gun to be more difficult to open.
Also check that the eject. rod itself is straight, and that it, and the locking bolt were fit correctly. If you remove the cyl from the yoke and press it on a flat surface ratchet side down, the center pin should come up flush or just slightly (.010) above the end of the ejector rod. Fit this way, the rod and cyl assy will "cam" off of the end of the locking lug properly. The assembly may not have been fit properly in the first place. These are not drop in parts, and for me this is one of the most difficult areas of the cylinder assembly....or "strap up" as the factory calls it....to get right.
Also check that the eject. rod itself is straight, and that it, and the locking bolt were fit correctly. If you remove the cyl from the yoke and press it on a flat surface ratchet side down, the center pin should come up flush or just slightly (.010) above the end of the ejector rod. Fit this way, the rod and cyl assy will "cam" off of the end of the locking lug properly. The assembly may not have been fit properly in the first place. These are not drop in parts, and for me this is one of the most difficult areas of the cylinder assembly....or "strap up" as the factory calls it....to get right.
bigggbbruce
Member
^ This and the rod backed out 1/2 a turn and if tightly fitted then your not pushing the locking bolt in the shroud enough to unlock the rod to swing the cylinder.
There can be a number of parts at play here none of which can honestly be pin pointed without having the gun on the bench. The locking bolt, center pin and extractor rod are all inter-related and all can contribute to your symptoms. I personally find many short barrel conceal type pieces seem to have similar issues but honestly I can't explain it -- could be luck of the draw for all I know.
However too many on this forum approach tightening extractor rods way too casually. These are very very delicate threads and since they can be left and right handed are prone to ignorant abuse. Over torque these or exceed 50 inch pounds and you will stretch them. Once the threads are stretched it follows that the rods will develop a tendency to come loose over and over and the next thing you know Capt Loctite is involved and the answer is to gum em up to hold.
Good extractor rod tools will slip around 50 inch pounds a feature most folks don't know.
Cylinder binding can be many things but I would suggest it could be a burr on the bolt bevel that can develop from going Hollywood slamming the cylinder closed to a centerpin a bit too short and thus not fully depressing the locking bolt. This could be aggravated by end shake, yoke alignment all kinds of things. The fact that you noted it is getting worse may point to the problem but sorry to say I can't find it from here
Good luck
However too many on this forum approach tightening extractor rods way too casually. These are very very delicate threads and since they can be left and right handed are prone to ignorant abuse. Over torque these or exceed 50 inch pounds and you will stretch them. Once the threads are stretched it follows that the rods will develop a tendency to come loose over and over and the next thing you know Capt Loctite is involved and the answer is to gum em up to hold.
Good extractor rod tools will slip around 50 inch pounds a feature most folks don't know.
Cylinder binding can be many things but I would suggest it could be a burr on the bolt bevel that can develop from going Hollywood slamming the cylinder closed to a centerpin a bit too short and thus not fully depressing the locking bolt. This could be aggravated by end shake, yoke alignment all kinds of things. The fact that you noted it is getting worse may point to the problem but sorry to say I can't find it from here
Good luck
Last edited:
I removed the side plate and lubed the ejector slide again. I also loosened the ejector rod and re tightened it. The cylinder now open's with out to much effort. Not sure what the problem was but it is working much better now. Thanks for all the help
Hi:
With all he above checks, do one more:
With a bright light, check for a split forcing cone.
With all he above checks, do one more:
With a bright light, check for a split forcing cone.
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
My favorite story from my cop days. Two naked little people and a parrot
- Latest: Biff_Biffington
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-