Model 66 longevity vs. Model 60 in 357mag

[ayetee]

Newby here needs advice.

I have read and heard quite a bit of concern over longevity of K frame model 19s and 66s firing a steady diet of full house 125gr. 357mags. Will I have the same issue with a later J frame model 60 in 357mag?

 

[OKFC05]

No, but your hand may have problems with extended firing of .357 in a j frame.

 

[AveragEd]

I have no experience with any J-frame much less one in a magnum caliber but logic would dictate that the smaller frame would suffer more abuse than the larger one.

That said, I struggle with understanding why anyone would shoot full-house magnum loads all the time.

Ed

 

[UncleEd]

A J-frame is just that much smaller so you'll feel the punch of a full-house .357 even more so than a 19/66. I doubt you'll be
firing either gun that much with those full-house cartridges to wear out either gun.

Are you planning, for instance, on firing a box of .357s per week?

I know that for myself, and I've fired a lot of .357s, that until you get to the L-N frames, you're going to feel a certain amount of
stress (misery) with the J or K. In a J, I doubt I'd fire more than 10 rounds at a time and then call it a day. For the K-frame, maybe 24 rounds and again call it a day. And that would be even with 110-grain bullets.

 

[colt_saa]

A Modern J-magnum revolver does not have the metallurgical and design weaknesses of a 1950-70s Model 19/66 that caused forcing cone cracks.

My oldest J-magnum (1996 manufacture) has in excess of 5000 Full magnum Federal rounds through it so far. It is just fine.

Truth is the most modern engineering revision of the model 66 should not have any issues with cracked forcing cones either.

People tend to forget that there have been manufacturing and metallurgical improvements to the K-magnum family of revolvers from their inception almost six decades ago in 1955 until today.

Kind of like back in my day I can recall the high school Auto Shop teaching kids how to do ring jobs. I doubt that today's automotive young-uns even know what a ring is. Manufacturing and metallurgical advancements have made this once common automotive repair virtually extinct.

 

[ayetee]

Thank you for all the replies. I am looking at a 2008 model 60 with full lug in 357mag because I have been babying my other 357mag which is an early 90s vintage (BFD68xx) model 66 with a 3" barrel.

I am thinking about setting my 3" M-66 down and switch to a different "smaller than N frame M-27" and seems like my only choice is the M-60. Thus my question as I like to know if the M-60 can give me the same service as my M-66.

 

[colt_saa]

Thank you for all the replies. I am looking at a 2008 model 60 with full lug in 357mag because I have been babying my other 357mag which is an early 90s vintage (BFD68xx) model 66 with a 3" barrel.

I am thinking about setting my 3" M-66 down and switch to a different "smaller than N frame M-27" and seems like my only choice is the M-60. Thus my question as I like to know if the M-60 can give me the same service as my M-66.

In terms of firearm durability, the model 60 is the better choice.

In terms of shooter fatigue, the model 66 is the superior choice.

The 3" 60 weighs 24.5 ounces while the 3" model 66 weighs 32.5 ounces, making the J-frame 20% lighter. This is GREAT for carry, but not helpful in the recoil department.

 

[ayetee]

In terms of firearm durability, the model 60 is the better choice.

In terms of shooter fatigue, the model 66 is the superior choice.

The 3" 60 weighs 24.5 ounces while the 3" model 66 weighs 32.5 ounces, making the J-frame 20% lighter. This is GREAT for carry, but not helpful in the recoil department.

So the newer 60 at 24.5 oz is more durable than my heavier 66 which is at least 15 years older. That's good news to my back. Well, may be not to my hand though.

 

[shouldazagged]

You would have to really like shooting full-power .357 Magnum to do a lot of it in a snubby. Quite apart from recoil, the already hellacious flash and blast of .357 is much greater in a short-barreled gun. I shoot +P .38 Special in my 640, and more than once I've been asked by somebody in the next bay at the range if I was firing .357 Magnum. Short revolvers are noisy little beasts, with lots of muzzle and cylinder/barrel gap flash. I'd hate to have to fire a magnum version at night in a self-defense situation for fear that after the first shot I'd be unable to see to assess the situation.

 

[ayetee]

I shoot 357mag mostly with my M-27 but I carry my 3" M-66.

My other two carry guns are a Charter Arms .44spl and a M642 so I am kind of use to handling recoil.

Really like to try a M-60 357mag with a 3" barrel which is lighter to carry.

 

[629shooter]

I shoot 357mag mostly with my M-27 but I carry my 3" M-66.

My other two carry guns are a Charter Arms .44spl and a M642 so I am kind of use to handling recoil.

Really like to try a M-60 357mag with a 3" barrel which is lighter to carry.

The M60 has some recoil with "full-house" magnums. But its manageable.

 

[ayetee]

The M60 has some recoil with "full-house" magnums. But its manageable.

I believe so. I use 110gr. in my M66 and will use the same load if I can find a M60.

My 642 is loaded with 125gr.+P but the heaviest recoil is the Hornady 180gr 44spl.

 

[Martya]

I carry a 60-10 - 3" SS RB - sometimes, and for the few times I took it to the range I shot .38 then some +p.38 and finish with some 125gr 357. It is not so bad with the '3-finger' bigger S&W grips.

When I carry it has 'reduced recoil' 357 in it.

 

[sctman800]

I have a 66 no dash and mostly shoot .357mag in 158gr lead hand loads. Not real hot but over the 38spl range, I have settled on this load from a lot of what I have read here. My belief it these loads are good as far as the forcing cone cracking problem on "K" frames and avoid the hot 110 and 125gr's. Been working for me. Jim.

 

[mg357]

Out of the 2 guns mentioned I have a S&W Model 60-10 and its a fine gun. I hope to add a 60-15 at some point in the near future.