Model One safety ?

K W C

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I just bought my first model number one , a third issue. I own many newer S&W revolvers, but have never messed with a model one.
Does it have a safety?
When I try to cock it the hammer catches in the rear of the top strap,unless you hold up a little on the rear of the top. Is this normal?
The gun looks to be in real good condition & I bought it from a reputable antique firearms dealer.
 
Mine does the same thing. So does my second issue. I don't think there was a concern for a safety.
 
Very normal. What you are calling the top strap is actually the cylinder stop. It is designed for the hammer to cam it up while being cocked thus unlocking the cylinder and allowing it to turn. it then snaps back down and relocks the cylinder after it is indexed to the next chamber.
When the hammer falls notice that the hammernose passes through the split spring without camming it back up. (Modern revolvers carry this part/function below the cylinder.)
 
Does it have a safety?

There is no safety on any antique S&W revolver. I have never had any of mine drag on the cylinder stop striker when cocking. Check to see if the top of the hammer firing pin has any roughness or if there is dirt in the slot of the striker. I would not be concerned, but maybe a small amount of gun grease in the striker slot and that should make it function better.
 
Howdy

Sometimes a photo helps. Here is a photo of the mechanism of a #1 1/2 Tip Up, but all the Tip Ups were similar. Notice the hump at the top of the hammer. The hump interacted with the bolt in two distinctly different ways. The bolt is the part sticking out of the frame towards the hammer. There is a spring under the bolt keeping it pulled down and engaged with the locking notches on the cylinder most of the time. A portion of the bolt protrudes through the frame and engages the locking slots on the cylinder. The bolt is actually partially split in half, more about that in a moment.

When the hammer is cocked, the radius at the rear of the hump on top of the hammer rocks the bolt up a tiny bit, pulling the locking tab out of the cylinder notches, allowing the cylinder to rotate. As soon as the hammer clears the bolt, the spring slaps the bolt back down, so it can pop into the locking notches on the cylinder, locking the cylinder.

When the hammer falls, the sharp pointed leading edge of the hump separates the two rear halves of the bolt, so the spring will continue to keep bolt down with the cylinder locked in battery.

It is actually a very clever and simple system.

If the hammer will not cock without raising the bolt, then something is wrong. Perhaps a burr on the hammer is preventing the bolt from rising. Perhaps the radius at the rear of the hump is worn. Perhaps there is dirt or something preventing the bolt from rising. Perhaps the spring is broken or not working properly.

P.S., no, none of these had any sort of safety device built into them.

lockworkcocked.jpg
 
I always found it interesting that 15 years after S&W went to the locking bolt on the bottom (top breaks), they reverted to the top version on the first solid frame swing-out model. (The M1896).
 
I always found it interesting that 15 years after S&W went to the locking bolt on the bottom (top breaks), they reverted to the top version on the first solid frame swing-out model. (The M1896).

Yes, I saw one of those recently and I was surprised too. But they went back to a 'bottom' bolt in 1899.
 
Don't break the little split spring on the bottom of the cylinder catch. That's one of the hardest parts to replace on a Model 1!

Lovely little revolver. Enjoy it (but don't try to put modern ammo through it).

Mike
 
Actually, not all of the tip ups used the top mounted cylinder latch. The No.1 and No.2 did, but the No. 1 1/2 First model used the bottom mounted cylinder latch for the first time. For some reason S&W reverted to the top mounted hammer actuated design when they came out with the No. 1 1/2 Second model.
 
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