Modifying a 649 to 649-1 standard ?

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I have a 649 "no dash" -- am interested in upgrading to -1 standard, which I understand are reliability mods (I don't care to shoot +P). Can I get the parts and do this myself ? I have had S&Ws apart and put them back together many times, have the right Brownell tools. Will the factory do it for me, and if so, for how much ?

Thanks --
 
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I have a 649 "no dash" -- am interested in upgrading to -1 standard, which I understand are reliability mods (I don't care to shoot +P). Can I get the parts and do this myself ? I have had S&Ws apart and put them back together many times, have the right Brownell tools. Will the factory do it for me, and if so, for how much ?

Thanks --
 
Well, in my experience, 649's haven't been completely reliable, and this is in part why I'm wondering. I own four shrouded hammer J-frames -- a 638-3, a 649, a 649-2, and another 649, not sure on dash, the first one I ever had, which my 31 year old daughter has had with her since she was in college (not sure I can really claim to own it anymore...).

One day, in the early 90's, after I had run perhaps 25 rounds thru that first 649, making it pretty hot, I found that I couldn't open it. Based on looking at the gun closely, I concluded that the extractor rod / center pin assembly had expanded / lengthened due to heating, and the tolerances were no longer correct to let the cylinder assembly pop out. After the gun cooled all was fine. I doubted my daughter would ever experience this problem in a live-saving context. But that is what makes me somewhat sensitive to erliability issues in J-frames.
 
S&WMod65fan,

To directly answer your question, no, the parts are not available to update the 638 to 638-1. The changes were yoke retention system and radiius stud package. The yoke retention would require replacement of the yoke, re-drilling and tapping the frame for the new yoke screw, and re-drilling the side plate. The radiius stud package requires replacement of the hammer, trigger and cylinder stop studs which are staked into the frame, a factory job if the would even do it. This would also require replacement of the hammer, trigger and, probably, cylinder stop to match up with the radiiused studs.

By the time you paid for all the parts and labor to change this gun you could have bought a new model and saved a lot of time.

I would ask if, in the one circumstance you had problems with the 638 in question, did you make any measurements, or just listen to "someone" who thought it could have been caused by heating? With the dimensions involved and the possible temperatures from firing, it is unlikely the extractor rod could have lengthened even 1/2 of one thousandth of an inch, a fraction of the thickness of tissue paper. Do you really think this was a reasonable explanation? As you can see, even if you could have up-dated the gun to -1 standards there is nothing which would have addressed this issue. I am not saying you didn't have a problem, just questioning the conclusion which was reached.
 
It's been many years, but as I recall I looked closely at the gun, and pressing the cylinder release was causing the center rod to go too far forward and catch, rather than tolerancing correctly so it would slide out to the left. Since this hadn't happened with a cooler gun, and went away later, I attributed the problem to thermal expansion. But it certainly could have been something else.

What problem did S&W have wth the no-dash mechanisms?

Thanks --
 
I'm not sure why S&W made certain changes, sometimes it's just for ease of manufacturing. Your problem could have been a lock bolt that was slightly to the long side or crude/dirt in behind the front latch not allowing it to fully retract.
 
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