BigBill
Absent Comrade
Has anyone applied a moly paste or anti-seeze to your gun yet??
Results?????
Trigger pull???
Results?????
Trigger pull???
MOLY Paste or Anti-seeze try it yet?????
- Thread starter BigBill
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Moly "G" paste works well. Figure out the least amount you need and then apply half of that. A little goes a LONG way.
Anti-seize is designed to keep things from sticking together so they can be taken apart later. It is not a lubricant for continuing use.
Anti-seize is designed to keep things from sticking together so they can be taken apart later. It is not a lubricant for continuing use.
1morethan8
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
Some moly grease is both an antiseize and lubricate...
the TS-74 Stainless Antiseize by T. S. Moly Lubricants, Inc. is one example.
T.S. Moly Lubricants Inc.
I use the moly paste ts-70. The paste and anti-seeze has a higher percentage of moly in it(%). The more moly the better.
I lube every area where there is metal to metal contact. The cylinder stud, the swing out stud and the cylinder block pin and rotating hand and star.
Inside the revolver I put moly on the hammer stud, trigger stud, the sides of the trigger return block and spring. I put moly on both ends of the hammer spring and both mating parts of the sear. The I run the revolver about 50 times by hand to burnish in the moly. It may feel tight a tad at first but it will free up and smooth out during the cycling. If it remains tight you have too much moly in it. Just a little will do.
I lube every area where there is metal to metal contact. The cylinder stud, the swing out stud and the cylinder block pin and rotating hand and star.
Inside the revolver I put moly on the hammer stud, trigger stud, the sides of the trigger return block and spring. I put moly on both ends of the hammer spring and both mating parts of the sear. The I run the revolver about 50 times by hand to burnish in the moly. It may feel tight a tad at first but it will free up and smooth out during the cycling. If it remains tight you have too much moly in it. Just a little will do.
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BigBill:
I do have some of the TS Moly 70% that I purchased a few years back after reading one of your posts. I will post here some suggestions & findings from using it.
If one does purchase the product in a tube, they would be better served transferring it to a small jar. This is because the contents seem to separate inside the tube and it can not be mixed easily (yes I did try needing the tube before using - N/G) . A few stirs with a small screwdriver in the jar is all it takes to mix the TS back together.
When first receiving the product I did use too much and it makes a hell of a mess! The black color does not help holsters, clothing and gun cases. You are correct - a little goes a long way.
Rubbing the product in to the metal and removing excess is just the way to go.
I find that the Moly works very well on cheaper guns or parts that were cast and not forged. Forged parts are inherently smoother than cast and the cast parts are more porous. I've used it on a few Ruger 10/22's with excellent results.
I would not use it on 1911 rails unless you like wearing black dots on your face and shirt. It also seems to attract dust and debris more than a product that "dries" after application. For internal use where dirt & debris are not a big factor the stuff does work well. Still, I have not used it long enough to inspect it years later to verify its longevity.
I've also used it in other non-firearms applications on parts that are internal and it seems to work well. I just wish that it was clear and not black in color. The other thing that bothers me (or at least raises my curiosity) is what happens when the TS is applied inside a gun and it gets contaminated with either solvents, oils or rust preventatives.
Bottom line for me is I am having a love-hate relationship with it. It is an excellent lubricant but does have some downsides like I've mentioned.
I do have some of the TS Moly 70% that I purchased a few years back after reading one of your posts. I will post here some suggestions & findings from using it.
If one does purchase the product in a tube, they would be better served transferring it to a small jar. This is because the contents seem to separate inside the tube and it can not be mixed easily (yes I did try needing the tube before using - N/G) . A few stirs with a small screwdriver in the jar is all it takes to mix the TS back together.
When first receiving the product I did use too much and it makes a hell of a mess! The black color does not help holsters, clothing and gun cases. You are correct - a little goes a long way.
Rubbing the product in to the metal and removing excess is just the way to go.
I find that the Moly works very well on cheaper guns or parts that were cast and not forged. Forged parts are inherently smoother than cast and the cast parts are more porous. I've used it on a few Ruger 10/22's with excellent results.
I would not use it on 1911 rails unless you like wearing black dots on your face and shirt. It also seems to attract dust and debris more than a product that "dries" after application. For internal use where dirt & debris are not a big factor the stuff does work well. Still, I have not used it long enough to inspect it years later to verify its longevity.
I've also used it in other non-firearms applications on parts that are internal and it seems to work well. I just wish that it was clear and not black in color. The other thing that bothers me (or at least raises my curiosity) is what happens when the TS is applied inside a gun and it gets contaminated with either solvents, oils or rust preventatives.
Bottom line for me is I am having a love-hate relationship with it. It is an excellent lubricant but does have some downsides like I've mentioned.
Cpo1944
Member
I use it down at the coast to prevent galling and corrosion sticking on metals near/or in the Salt water, but I don't know why you want to use it on a gun?
Smith357
US Veteran
I have used anti-seize on hinge pins, bolt lugs, and choke tubes for many many moons, it works as advertised in those applications.
Try it inside the gun on the metal to metal moving parts. The action will be smoother with less trigger pull when applied to the sear.
I use it on my 1911's too. On the frame rails, recoil spring, FLGR, on the hammer face, on the bottom of the slide where the hammer resets.
First disassemble the 1911. Now put the empty slide on the dry frame and feel the drag. Now put a little moly on the frame rails and slide grooves. Now put the empty slide on the frame and run it by hand to see how smooth it is.
I lube my bolt actions with moly on the bolt body, reset cam, and bolt lugs plus the bottom of the bolt on the sear.
On the sks/ak semi autos I lube the frame rails, bolt carrier, bolt, the op rod, op rod spring, the gas piston and a tad of moly in the gas tube. I put some moly on the gas piston just a tad. On the rotating bolt and cam on the ak/akm style receivers. Lube the recoil spring and guide.
Again after cycling it to burnish the moly into the pores of the metal wipe off the excess.
It can smooth out the roughness in any rough action too. It's so much more accurate with the moly on the sear, the trigger is so much smoother.
All my guns get lubed with moly.
Now if you want to add more moly down the road don't wash out the old moly and your gun parts. MOLY doesn't attract dirt. I use a clean soft rag and wipe the inside of the frame or receiver till it's clean. Then reapply a little moly and it's good to go. I don't remove the moly that's in the pores of the metal by washing the parts. I just add a tad of moly to the contact areas.
Once you see and feel how good this moly works you won't use nothing else. The bluing inside my 80's sks hasn't worn off the frame rails yet. I been using moly in every application I could try and test it in. It's never failed yet.
I see so many loose slides on the used 1911's in the used gun case at my LGS when the wear can be prevented. I refuse to buy the same gun over and over because or wear. If your seeing any wear at all your present lube isn't working.
Example;
I took my saiga in 308win to the range. It's brand new and lubed with moly. When we arrived home I washed the bore, wiped all the receiver parts and forgot to reapply the moly. The four of us hammered it at the range. After we were done I remembered I forgot to reliable it with moly.
Now it's a painted sheet metal receiver. I expected the worst galling and wear right? The receiver still had the finish on it and she still looked like new inside. I wiped it clean and left the moly in the pores of the metal.
Then the four of us hammered it at the range.
Do your own test on the trigger sear. Check the trigger pull first. Now apply the moly on the sear run it a few times, then check the trigger pull. We tested a ruger security six in 357. It had close to 4.5lbs of trigger pull at first. After the moly was applied to the sear it was down to 2.2lbs. Now that was in1976. Today it's around 2lbs. The moly smoothed out the trigger pull by 50% right away. And more as it works into the pores of the metal.
My two new S&W m57 & m58 had two different feeling triggers. One was rougher than the other. I lubed the rough one with moly now there both equal. I like my different guns to have the same smooth trigger pull as close as possible. Then when I switch guns at the range I don't have to adjust myself to a different trigger. Having the smoother let off makes me more accurate too.
MOLY is also used as a engine assembly prelube. It's that tube of gray/black stuff that comes with the cam shaft / lifter kits.
I have more stories about testing moly but that's another post.
I use it on my 1911's too. On the frame rails, recoil spring, FLGR, on the hammer face, on the bottom of the slide where the hammer resets.
First disassemble the 1911. Now put the empty slide on the dry frame and feel the drag. Now put a little moly on the frame rails and slide grooves. Now put the empty slide on the frame and run it by hand to see how smooth it is.
I lube my bolt actions with moly on the bolt body, reset cam, and bolt lugs plus the bottom of the bolt on the sear.
On the sks/ak semi autos I lube the frame rails, bolt carrier, bolt, the op rod, op rod spring, the gas piston and a tad of moly in the gas tube. I put some moly on the gas piston just a tad. On the rotating bolt and cam on the ak/akm style receivers. Lube the recoil spring and guide.
Again after cycling it to burnish the moly into the pores of the metal wipe off the excess.
It can smooth out the roughness in any rough action too. It's so much more accurate with the moly on the sear, the trigger is so much smoother.
All my guns get lubed with moly.
Now if you want to add more moly down the road don't wash out the old moly and your gun parts. MOLY doesn't attract dirt. I use a clean soft rag and wipe the inside of the frame or receiver till it's clean. Then reapply a little moly and it's good to go. I don't remove the moly that's in the pores of the metal by washing the parts. I just add a tad of moly to the contact areas.
Once you see and feel how good this moly works you won't use nothing else. The bluing inside my 80's sks hasn't worn off the frame rails yet. I been using moly in every application I could try and test it in. It's never failed yet.
I see so many loose slides on the used 1911's in the used gun case at my LGS when the wear can be prevented. I refuse to buy the same gun over and over because or wear. If your seeing any wear at all your present lube isn't working.
Example;
I took my saiga in 308win to the range. It's brand new and lubed with moly. When we arrived home I washed the bore, wiped all the receiver parts and forgot to reapply the moly. The four of us hammered it at the range. After we were done I remembered I forgot to reliable it with moly.
Now it's a painted sheet metal receiver. I expected the worst galling and wear right? The receiver still had the finish on it and she still looked like new inside. I wiped it clean and left the moly in the pores of the metal.
Then the four of us hammered it at the range.
Do your own test on the trigger sear. Check the trigger pull first. Now apply the moly on the sear run it a few times, then check the trigger pull. We tested a ruger security six in 357. It had close to 4.5lbs of trigger pull at first. After the moly was applied to the sear it was down to 2.2lbs. Now that was in1976. Today it's around 2lbs. The moly smoothed out the trigger pull by 50% right away. And more as it works into the pores of the metal.
My two new S&W m57 & m58 had two different feeling triggers. One was rougher than the other. I lubed the rough one with moly now there both equal. I like my different guns to have the same smooth trigger pull as close as possible. Then when I switch guns at the range I don't have to adjust myself to a different trigger. Having the smoother let off makes me more accurate too.
MOLY is also used as a engine assembly prelube. It's that tube of gray/black stuff that comes with the cam shaft / lifter kits.
I have more stories about testing moly but that's another post.
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Using moly on a soft rag you can burnish it into the contact areas a head of time. Have you noticed your semi auto cycles faster and smoother? It does make the rough action on the guns that cost less feel better. On your 10/22 did you check the tapped holes for the scope for burrs? Mine had metal chips hanging on the threaded holes from the tapping. This is right over the bolt.
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The 10/22's belong to a friend ( don't own any myself ) and it did help them a lot. The standard out of the box Ruger 10/22 trigger is pretty crude compared to some higher end 22's. I will admit the TS really helped out the Rugers.
DWalt
Member
The main purpose for anti-seizing compounds it to prevent galling of threads. Dissimilar metal components or even components of different metal hardness, when threaded together will sometimes lock so tightly they cannot be loosened without damage. I've never heard of anti-seizing/galling compounds being used essentially as lubricants, but maybe they can.
1morethan8
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
Stainless is bad to gall.. stainless to stainless.
Where is this sold? I want to try some.
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