More J frame questions

[Kenneth07ex]

Looked at lots of j-frame revolvers recently. I've noticed that some of the 38 special models have a thicker barrel, even though they're marked with the 38 special. What does this mean for shooting 38+P rounds? The particular revolver I'm talking about is a new to me 60-3.

I've tried the search, and it seems the consensus was that it would be okay occasionally, maybe. But the barrel difference in thickness wasn't mentioned. What gives with the thicker barrel, any thoughts?

 

[Hondo44]

The barrel doesn't make any difference to whether it's rated for 38 +P or not. The only "thicker" barrel (known as the heavy barrel) version was the 60-1 from 1972 which was a limited production of 171, 3" sq butt version. Serial range R56962-R57239.

The 60-3 is from 1988 with the larger yoke retention side plate screw.

 

[haywood]

My 3" 36 from 1971 has the heavy barrel.

 

[John Patrick]

Every steel frame S&W with a model number is safe to shoot with +P ammo, whether marked "+P" or not.

There is little reason to shoot a lot of +P ammo in a J frame, imo. Carry +P for self defense? Yes. Shoot + P as your regular range ammo? No.

My 3" Model 60 is a 357, I occasionally shoot 357 or 38 +P, but it's steady diet is basic store bought 132gr FMJ range ammo or my 148gr wadcutters. It's fun to shoot with wadcutters!

ETA after reading your most recent post:

S&W has repeatedly stated that + P is ok in steel model numbered 38spl revolvers, whether stamped + P or not. Model numbers started circa +/- 1960.

The thicker ("heavy") barrel is for ascetics, balance and modest muzzle rise and recoil reduction.

 

[Kenneth07ex]

Every steel frame S&W with a model number is safe to shoot with +P ammo, whether marked "+P" or not.

There is little reason to shoot a lot of +P ammo in a J frame, imo. Carry +P for self defense? Yes. Shoot + P as your regular range ammo? No.

My 3" Model 60 is a 357, I occasionally shoot 357 or 38 +P, but it's steady diet is basic store bought 132gr FMJ range ammo or my 148gr wadcutters. It's fun to shoot with wadcutters!

ETA after reading your most recent post:

S&W has repeatedly stated that + P is ok in steel model numbered 38spl revolvers, whether stamped + P or not. Model numbers started circa +/- 1960.

The thicker ("heavy") barrel is for ascetics, balance and modest muzzle rise and recoil reduction.

Sorry but I accidentally erased that post. But the aesthetics thing, along with muzzle flip makes sense, but wouldn't the thicker steel barrel also add substantial strength?

Unfortunately the internet is overwhelmed with info about the newer model, with some info about the older models. But very little about the aesthetic value added by thickening the barrel. Side note, I'd be reluctant to touch off a 38+P in that paper thin tapered barrel. But maybe that's just me?

 

[Pef]

Sorry but I accidentally erased that post. But the aesthetics thing, along with muzzle flip makes sense, but wouldn't the thicker steel barrel also add substantial strength?

Unfortunately the internet is overwhelmed with info about the newer model, with some info about the older models. But very little about the aesthetic value added by thickening the barrel. Side note, I'd be reluctant to touch off a 38+P in that paper thin tapered barrel. But maybe that's just me?

I've shot a lot of today's +P ammo in my 36 no dash, and it's still tight as a tick.

As for the .38 SPCL barrel on the little .38 J's, steel is pretty strong, and a round structure, such as a barrel, can withstand a lot of pressure.

Fire all the +P you want. You'll fatigue long before the gun does.

 

[GerSan69]

The barrel doesn't make any difference to whether it's rated for 38 +P or not. The only "thicker" barrel (known as the heavy barrel) version was the 60-1 from 1972 which was a limited production of 171, 3" sq butt version. Serial range R56962-R57239.

The 60-3 is from 1988 with the larger yoke retention side plate screw.

There are a few thousand 60-3s with a heavy 3" barrel. I've got one!

 

[John Patrick]

Sorry but I accidentally erased that post. But the aesthetics thing, along with muzzle flip makes sense, but wouldn't the thicker steel barrel also add substantial strength?

Unfortunately the internet is overwhelmed with info about the newer model, with some info about the older models. But very little about the aesthetic value added by thickening the barrel. Side note, I'd be reluctant to touch off a 38+P in that paper thin tapered barrel. But maybe that's just me?

As Pef notes, the thicker, "heavy," barrel is not needed for the revolver to be more than adequate for 38spl +P in steel Model numbered S&W revolvers.

Take a look at the current aluminum frame +P rated Model 638, for example. Thinner tapered barrel, +P rated.

 

[JDinAZ]

Sorry but I accidentally erased that post. But the aesthetics thing, along with muzzle flip makes sense, but wouldn't the thicker steel barrel also add substantial strength?

Unfortunately the internet is overwhelmed with info about the newer model, with some info about the older models. But very little about the aesthetic value added by thickening the barrel. Side note, I'd be reluctant to touch off a 38+P in that paper thin tapered barrel. But maybe that's just me?

Short answer

Nope it's virtually irrelevant between a pencil barrel a standard barrel and a bull barrel


Long answer

Look at the cylinder wall thickness. Or for another term, chamber wall. That is where a thicker area of metal could make a difference. Even that area which is a relatively thin cross section is fine on the guns in parameters stated by others above.

If the thickness of the barrel made any difference then all cylinders would have a chamber wall that is at minimum the thickness equal to the barrel wall thickness.

Think about the physics of it all. Then factor in that there is also somewhat of a "pressure release" in most all revolvers via what's known as BC gap, (barrel cylinder gap). Some gasses escape at this location which also aides in reduced pressure inside the barrel.

Heavy barrels, bull barrels etc only really come into play in harmonics. And a little bit in reduced muzzle rise due to the additional weight (as does full underlugs far as extra weight reducing muzzle flip). When a gun fires the barrel flexes and waves. The heavy barrels / bull barrels flex and wave less than pencil barrels. Which is why you see those on ultra accurate target guns.

Even at that for normal shooting these larger barrels are not needed as the amount of variance in bullet impact due to the wave is so minute that it's almost immeasurable for normal shooters. Those are high performance barrels made for competitive shooting where dialing in pin point accuracy is the name of the game.

Any radial flex from pressure in pencil and normal barrels is so minimal that it also is virtually irrelevant. If they flexed raidially to any substantial degree then the bullet would lose its engagement with the lands in the barrel on its way down the bore. Which does not happen because barrels just don't flex enough to make that kind of difference.

 

[jeeps]

All the HB does is tame recoil and steady aim.