MP15-22 Trigger Job

Steve Gile

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Just got a MP15-22, have not even shot it yet, hopefully tomorrow. However, I don't like the long creap in the trigger and the hard pull. Looks to me like you can remove some material from the sear which will shorten the pull length before breaking. Polishing the sear engagement parts should help also. Anyone done any trigger work on these yet?

If so, please share your info and results.

I am a competitive Bullseye shooter and have done all my own 1911 trigger work for years so reworking actions are nothing new here. I just wanted to pick your brains before tearing this gun apart in attempt to better the trigger pull.

Thanks!
Steve
 
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I like how you think.. This was the first thing I started looking at right out of the box. I noticed the same thing you did, shortening the sear would be the ticket on getting a better trigger in this gun and it shouldn't be hard. I haven't done it yet but my Dad and I have done trigger jobs on just about every gun we have. Savage and Ruger bolt action rifes, Remington 870 shotguns, and plenty of Ruger 10/22's. I just have decided to tackle the 15-22 yet. It does seem like it would be easy though, and would definitely improve accuracy.
 
You can fit any standard Match trigger. They just drop into the standard pin set receiver. You may have problems with the versions that use c-clips to secure the pins, though, as the polymer receiver is thicker than an aluminum receiver and the pins won't project far enough to get the lil' clips on.

A Rock River 2-stage dropped right into mine. 4 pounds. Nice reset.

-- Chuck
 
Braden,
Did you happen to measure the sear before, and after, removing material so see how much was taken off?
 
I did get to our range tonight to shoot my new MP15-22. I'm a Bullseye shooter so much of my .22 ammo is Standard Velocity. I shot 5 kinds of ammo through the MP15-22 and all shot well. I shot CCI, Aguilla Std. Velocity (Blue/Yellow box), Federal Hi-Power (Max. Velocity), Aguilla Black Box from CMP and Aguilla Match (Blue Box).

I got a 3/8" 5 shot group from the Aguilla Blue Box Match but it did not function action reliably, too soft of recoil. The second best group was a 10 shot group of Aguilla Black (CMP) Box ammo. This was a 10 shot group and was about 1/2" total. Functioned action perfectly, I was impressed!

Damn, this is a fun gun to shoot. My four grandsons will have a blast with this thing. That is IF I can get it out of my sons hands long enough for the kids to shoot. He needs to buy his own soon, or it will end up like my tools ----- missing!
 
I sent my trigger, hammer, disconnector and all the springs to Bill Springfield and had him do a trigger job. $35 and a week later I have the parts back and reinstalled in the 15-22 and I'm very pleased with the results. Crisp and clean 4-5lb break for $35 is tough to beat.
 
I bought a 15-22 yesterday to save my .223 ammo!! The first thing I noticed is the terrible trigger!! I have a few AR's and have done trigger work on two of them with great results, I just want to make sure that I got a GOOD ONE before I tear into my 15-22!!! As there is about a 50/50 chance I will have to send it back to smith for repair!!!
 
Sent my trigger to Bill Springfield. 1 week from when I went to the post office to when it showed back up in the mail. Had the 4# plus speed hammer work done. Factory trigger felt rough (almost like there was sand in it). Bill do his work and it is now smooth as glass. Very happy with the trigger now.
 
Single stage vs. Two stage

Would someone give me the 30 second explanation of the difference between a single stage trigger vs. a two stage trigger?

It appears the two stage would work better for the competition shooter and the single stage would be plenty for the tactical/combat shooter.

Thanks for the info.
 
Would someone give me the 30 second explanation of the difference between a single stage trigger vs. a two stage trigger?

It appears the two stage would work better for the competition shooter and the single stage would be plenty for the tactical/combat shooter.

Thanks for the info.

In a nutshell, as I understand it (and please correct me if I'm wrong folks), a single stage trigger, when properly adjusted, should have no real movement before dropping the hammer... other than the travel needed to get past the sear of course. So when you skweeeez that trigger the hammer just drops. A two stage trigger will have a small amount of travel (stage 1) and then you'll encounter a noticeable increase in resistance (stage 2), which indicates you've reach the break point for releasing the hammer. While a two stage trigger is considered by some to be a "safer" option, it's really a matter of preference. Properly tuned, ether can result in clean breaks and accurate shots. As for the safety aspect, I've always felt that's a function of what's between the ears of the shooter.

Personally, I've got a JP3.5 spring kit and a a few minutes with a dremel polishing wheel and a dab of Mother's invested in my 15-22 and what was a gritty hard trigger is now maybe a 4 pound pull, smooth with a slight increase just before it breaks. I'm extremely happy with it now :)
 
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Ding ding ding we have a winner.... someone tell him what he has won:D
There is alittle more to the machanics than that but that is pretty much what is felt by the shooter

In a nutshell, as I understand it (and please correct me if I'm wrong folks), a single stage trigger, when properly adjusted, should have no real movement before dropping the hammer... other than the travel needed to get past the sear of course. So when you skweeeez that trigger the hammer just drops. A two stage trigger will have a small amount of travel (stage 1) and then you'll encounter a noticeable increase in resistance (stage 2), which indicates you've reach the break point for releasing the hammer. While a two stage trigger is considered by some to be a "safer" option, it's really a matter of preference. Properly tuned, ether can result in clean breaks and accurate shots. As for the safety aspect, I've always felt that's a function of what's between the ears of the shooter.

Personally, I've got a JP3.5 spring kit and a a few minutes with a dremel polishing wheel and a dab of Mother's invested in my 15-22 and what was a gritty hard trigger is now maybe a 4 pound pull, smooth with a slight increase just before it breaks. I'm extremely happy with it now :)
 
I sent my trigger, hammer, disconnector and all the springs to Bill Springfield and had him do a trigger job. $35 and a week later I have the parts back and reinstalled in the 15-22 and I'm very pleased with the results. Crisp and clean 4-5lb break for $35 is tough to beat.

I sent mine in as well. It came back with extra stuff on it such that the trigger would not work. As I had an identical MP15 to compare, it did not belong.

Email BS and said grind it off. I did, Ran good one session, next one it turned into an automatic weapon. Trigger is out, spare in and looking for better options.

I do not think BS tunes them to the MP15-22, springs are different as is action. I would not recommend it.
 
I just put in the JP Enterprises 3.5 lb spring kit in, and did some light polishing with a felt wheel/dremel tool on the sear nose. I stoned the hammer notch very lightly. I then lubed it up with anti-sieze compound as recommended in the JP spring kit and reassembled.

I'm decidedly under-whelmed. The trigger is a little better, but far from "good."

I'm not sure what to do next. Suggestions?

Thanks,

Steve Koski
 
Steve, I'm surprised at your underwhelming experience with the JP springs. They made a major improvement in my trigger. Maybe I had a very bad trigger to start or you had a pretty good one to start with. I'll leave it to others who have gone beyond this point to give you a recommendation as to what to do next.
 
Compass Lake Engineering made an excellent two-stage match trigger (4 lbs on first stage; 1 lb on second) out of the stock trigger on my Bushmaster AR; they made a similar two-stage trigger conversion on my M&P 15. I imagine they can do the same on a M&P15-22. The CLE Trigger
 

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