My M38 Bodyguard - RIP

swampjam

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
31
Reaction score
14
Location
Southwest Louisiana
Recently found a crack in the frame of my M38 Bodyguard. The crack underneath and parallel with the barrel. I spoke with S&W customer service and they advised me that my gun was born in 1983 - 30 years ago. They also advised that they wouldn't repair it unless it had some special value (sentimental, etc.) They said I could send it to them and they would probably offer me a discount on a new gun. I think that M638 is closest current production model.

Anyone had similar experience? Did you return yours, part it out, put it in a shoe box and bury it in the backyard?

Thanks!
 
Register to hide this ad


So sorry to hear it. Yes, my beloved 38-2 cracked in the same manner you describe. (There's a thread on it here - search on my name and "38-2" to find it. This thread might also be of interest: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/195014-airweight-frame-crack.html ) S&W said that the barrel had been improperly screwed in and replaced the gun.



But they replaced it with a new 638 with the on-board lock. I promptly sold this - unfired - to a friend (didn't want a locking revolver after my experience with my 60-15, and THE PLUG was not yet available for purchase). Were the same thing to happen to me today, I would have S&W send me the gun, I would take out the lock, and I would install THE PLUG. Your situation should, of course, dictate your considered actions.

 
Cracked Cylinder on 1963 Model I have. Otherwise ,in great shape.
Can't shoot it anymore,but can't part with it either.
 
Spoke with S&W customer service again today. I was given the same info as the first time I spoke with them. Because the gun is 30 years old, they say they won't repair it but will only offer me a discount on a new gun. If I don't want a new gun they say they will return mine. They are sending a return FedEx label and other instructions via email. So, I'll send it in when I get the label. I'll let you know what actually happens.
 
How much of a discount? I would balk at that-- I think I'd much rather have a good old-fashioned S&W-quality 1983 gun than "a discount" on anything they're putting out now.
I've heard of & seen pics of several of these cracked frames, but haven't heard of any of them failing (aka kaboom). I wonder how many cracked frames are out there, with the owner unaware of the defect and still happily carrying and shooting the gun? I also wonder if there's any way to repair the crack, perhaps by tig-welding the crack?
 
How much of a discount? I would balk at that-- I think I'd much rather have a good old-fashioned S&W-quality 1983 gun than "a discount" on anything they're putting out now.
I've heard of & seen pics of several of these cracked frames, but haven't heard of any of them failing (aka kaboom). I wonder how many cracked frames are out there, with the owner unaware of the defect and still happily carrying and shooting the gun? I also wonder if there's any way to repair the crack, perhaps by tig-welding the crack?

Over the years I've heard a lot of people complain about the quality of S&W during this time period. The Bangor Punta time period. Still, he shoudl get a decent discount. I check my 642 & 638 after every range session for cracks.
 
About 7 years ago my 38 cracked. S&w replaced it with a 638 at no cost. I think you would be able to get one at no cost if you raised enough heck.
 
My M10s from that period are excellent as far as I know. But I did blow up a M19 I bought in 81. S&W replaced it with "any gun" at their cost. I selected a CS-45. That's the way to go, pick a gun you'd like to buy but don't want to spend the money, get that discount, and be HAPPY!

***GRJ***
 
I own one light-weight because of so much press on the barrel-cracking. A 317 AirLite and it belongs to my wife....so I can't sell it and would not part with it anyway.

I have simply taken to only purchasing all steel (usually stainless) pre-lock guns. At the price of these in today's market, I will admit to picking-up two Interarms Rossi 38's. You can buy two of those for the price of one 640, 649, 60 or 36. They are steel, lock-less, will fit any j-frame holster....and you can toss them in the garbage if they break, or if a LEA takes it away from you if you have to use it for serous business.....the pain is not nearly as bad in losing a Smith.
 
A couple of days ago I put 50 + rounds of standard pressure through my early '60's flat latch M38. Aside from a sore wrist the gun performed just fine and continues as my current EDC. I'm sorry for your loss, these old style Bodyguards are the ugliest gun you'll ever love, and hard to find @ reasonable prices.
 
Over the years I've heard a lot of people complain about the quality of S&W during this time period. The Bangor Punta time period. .....

That's sure not the way I hear it. All the B-P Smith's I own and have owned seemed to have been of very fine quality. But I sure seem to hear a lot of bad stuff about the QC on today's S&W products. Canted barrels, cracked frames, etc.......and warranty work turn-arounds measured in months (and months!) instead of days or maybe weeks. For shame!
 
Are these reported frame cracks limited to guns with non-pinned barrels? I have a Model 442 which seems to be OK, and, a pinned-barrel Model 38, my carry gun before I got the 442. The 38 is OK as well, but has been fired little and then only with standard-pressure ammunition.
 
That's sure not the way I hear it. All the B-P Smith's I own and have owned seemed to have been of very fine quality. But I sure seem to hear a lot of bad stuff about the QC on today's S&W products. Canted barrels, cracked frames, etc.......and warranty work turn-arounds measured in months (and months!) instead of days or maybe weeks. For shame!
It hops all over the place. Some say it's today's stuff that's the worst; I've encountered a lot of trash talk about the Bangor Punta period; even read an article that said the late '80s to early '90s was for some reason S&W's lowest point.

I've given up believing or caring, and don't think there's ever been a best or worst era -- each has produced its share of superb revolvers, and each its share of lemons. It all comes down to the specific gun.
 
In one section, SCSW says the Bangor-Punta era was 1965-1987-- in another, it says 1965-1984. I've heard cracked frames mentioned with both pinned and non-pinned barrels- the only common denominator is airweight frames.
 
Update on M38 with Cracked Frame

After a couple of misfires on getting my return authorization, I received it on 26NOV13 and FEDEX picked up my package that afternoon. On 12DEC13, I received a call from S&W CS confirming that my M38 could not be repaired. They gave me a choice of having my gun returned or receiving a replacement M638 which is the closest current production model to my M38. They said the replacement gun will be at no charge to me because the cracked frame was not due to any error on my part. I opted to receive the replacement gun and they said they will destroy my old M38. They couldn't say when I will receive the new gun due to backlogs..I provided the info for my FFL dealer. At this point, it looks like the only cost to me will be the FFL's transfer fee. Of course, this is exactly what I hoped would happen. Now, I'm just waiting for the new gun to arrive. Kudos to S&W for replacing my 30 year old second hand revolver and making me a happy customer again!
 
After a couple of misfires on getting my return authorization, I received it on 26NOV13 and FEDEX picked up my package that afternoon. On 12DEC13, I received a call from S&W CS confirming that my M38 could not be repaired. They gave me a choice of having my gun returned or receiving a replacement M638 which is the closest current production model to my M38. They said the replacement gun will be at no charge to me because the cracked frame was not due to any error on my part. I opted to receive the replacement gun and they said they will destroy my old M38. They couldn't say when I will receive the new gun due to backlogs..I provided the info for my FFL dealer. At this point, it looks like the only cost to me will be the FFL's transfer fee. Of course, this is exactly what I hoped would happen. Now, I'm just waiting for the new gun to arrive. Kudos to S&W for replacing my 30 year old second hand revolver and making me a happy customer again!
That is great customer service if you ask me. Unless the backlog is unreasonably long....
 
This is the cracked frame of my 617. I used it for Steel Challenge competition for about two years. I sent it to S&W and had a replacement gun in under 15 days. I was quite happy with S&W.


attachment.php
 
This is the cracked frame of my 617. I used it for Steel Challenge competition for about two years. I sent it to S&W and had a replacement gun in under 15 days. I was quite happy with S&W.


attachment.php

I can understand how the frame on an Airweight .38 spl might fail after a couple thousand rounds. It is troubling that the frame on a 617, a K-frame .22 LR, failed after a couple of years. I'm glad SW fixed it.
 
I can understand how the frame on an Airweight .38 spl might fail after a couple thousand rounds. It is troubling that the frame on a 617, a K-frame .22 LR, failed after a couple of years. I'm glad SW fixed it.

Yes! Most everyone else thought the same thing.

Most acclaimed the problem to an "over to torqued barrel "

I have had to such problems with the replacement.
 
Last edited:
As I've posted before, I wonder if there isn't a fix for the all-too-typical "airweight crack" involving a heliarc welder. Grind a bevel, weld it up, grind/machine down as required to allow the yoke to close. Maybe not pretty, but better than scrapping the gun. Otherwise, I guess contact S&W and hope like heck they'll offer to replace it with a new gun.
 
As I've posted before, I wonder if there isn't a fix for the all-too-typical "airweight crack" involving a heliarc welder. Grind a bevel, weld it up, grind/machine down as required to allow the yoke to close. Maybe not pretty, but better than scrapping the gun. Otherwise, I guess contact S&W and hope like heck they'll offer to replace it with a new gun.
Welding destroys whatever heat treatment the frame had.
 
It hops all over the place. Some say it's today's stuff that's the worst; I've encountered a lot of trash talk about the Bangor Punta period; even read an article that said the late '80s to early '90s was for some reason S&W's lowest point.

I've given up believing or caring, and don't think there's ever been a best or worst era -- each has produced its share of superb revolvers, and each its share of lemons. It all comes down to the specific gun.
Before people were upset that barrels were no longer pinned. Now it is the lock (though with the Centennial models there is the no-lock option).

Around here the biggest issue I come across with new revolvers is Charter Arms with cylinders stuck closed. The solution is always something simple.

I see the lower quality statements as an internet myth. As much as people gripe about MIM, fact is that functionally the biggest difference from now and a couple decades ago is that now everyone gripes on the internet if they get an issue.

I'm no expert, but have been buying guns for some 18 years. A few new guns have had minor problems, but none that I couldn't live with or that couldn't be easily rectified. Out of all of them so far S&W has been the best to me.

Unfortunately it is consumers that have driven prices down and thus simplified production in modern times. These days the price difference between most revolver manufacturers is not nearly as wide a margin as it used to be.

Despite this most experts believe that the production consistency and tolerances are better than ever, so despite much of the romanticism being gone from the days of old they're still putting out a good product.

It's good to see they're taking care of customers with decades old guns. I put a few hundred rounds through mine fairly quicky as that seems to be when most cracks occur. So far so good. If it gets a free replacement if it cracks in thirty years, that's ok.

On repairing fatigue cracks in aluminum alloy, that'd be an exercise in futility.
 
Back
Top