My new 686

jackge

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Yesterday I picked up a Model 686-6 with a 2.5" barrel, .357 Mag/.38 Special +P. Rounded butt.

I put about 50 rounds through it (.38 Special target ammo) and my first impressions were that the grip was just a tad short (I'm used to 1911's), but the accuracy and recoil in single action were outstanding. It was dead nuts center but when I went to double action my pattern was all over the paper.
Bottom line: I really like this pistol and it'll make a good garage gun.
I checked out Brownells for a "Spring kit" and found this: BANG : Miculek S/W Spring Kit (100-000-223) - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

I wonder if this will reduce the double action trigger pull?
Here's the obligatory picture even though there's nothing special to look at, it's an all business hand gun.
S%26W%20686-6006.jpg


S%26W%20686-6002.jpg
 
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It is a very nice busiiness handgun though. I am looking to get the 4inch model. I love the 357 round and its abiility to stop about anything i come across dwon here in the south. Coongrats on your new firearm.
 
It is a very nice busiiness handgun though. I am looking to get the 4inch model. I love the 357 round and its abiility to stop about anything i come across dwon here in the south. Coongrats on your new firearm.

Except them red neck zombies. They take a 10 gauge.:D

That's a fine looking revolver. Shooting double action(for me anyway) takes a lot of practice to stay on a pie plate at 10-15 yards.
 
Nice Revolver! I'm currently using my 2.5" 686-5 as my primary carry until my 2.5" Model 66-2 get's it's internals re-worked. I had to have the Crown re-cut on my 2.5" 686-6, which helped with accuracy immensely........
 
I would not tamper with the action, it could impact reliable ignition - not something you want in a defensive arm. Instead practice, practice, practice. If you are a 1911 shooter it might take awhile to get the hang of it, but you will.
 
Nice Revolver! I'm currently using my 2.5" 686-5 as my primary carry until my 2.5" Model 66-2 get's it's internals re-worked. I had to have the Crown re-cut on my 2.5" 686-6, which helped with accuracy immensely........

When shooting single action this thing is dead nuts accurate, no complaints at all. What caused you to have to re cut the crown?
 
When shooting single action this thing is dead nuts accurate, no complaints at all.

Mine wasn't, it had the worst factory cut crown I have ever seen, on any gun and if it wasn't for the fact that I got a screamin' deal on it I would have passed. I got it used last fall from the person who bought it new 4 months prior.
 
Mine wasn't, it had the worst factory cut crown I have ever seen, on any gun and if it wasn't for the fact that I got a screamin' deal on it I would have passed. I got it used last fall from the person who bought it new 4 months prior.

Too bad, I hope he wasn't a friend. He must have banged it up pretty good though. It would seem unlikely it would ship from the factory like that IMO.
 
That's a very nice 686. I was very fortunate with mine. It came from the factory with a great trigger in both DA and SA. I have had several people who have shot it ask me, "who did your trigger for you?" I just smile and say no one, it is how it came from factory and they can't believe it. Enjoy your 686. They are great revolvers.
 
Since the 686 doesn't have the firing pin on the hammer is it OK to "dry fire" it?:confused:
 
i have a 686-1 and a 686-6 both 4inch. both have smooth as butter triggers. put a set of houge wood grips on her and it will a
207lzwj.jpg
n extra groove for your hand. and you'll have more control of the gun.
 
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Too bad, I hope he wasn't a friend. He must have banged it up pretty good though. It would seem unlikely it would ship from the factory like that IMO.

No bangin' went on with my -6's crown, it came, without a doubt, cut from the factory that way as there was nary a witness mark on it. Just cut crooked, which I saw before I bought it so I knew what I was getting into.........
 
I have a couple of 686's and I found the triggers to be really stiff but I will not mess with them. The answer is to shoot often and you will get used to the feel.

The best revolver triggers I have found has been on my model 66.

That said, I shoot semi autoloaders almost 99% of the time and now I shoot S&W 1911 about 100% of my time on the range. The revolvers are fun to shoot and I love doing so but just cannot find the time.

If you want to get rid of that gun, let me know. I would love to have another for my collection.
 
Has anyone put laser grips on theirs?

I have Crimson Trace Grips on three of my 686 round butt's, a 2.5", 3 & 4-inch and will be getting some CT "Hoghunters" for my 4" square butt 686.

I just gave my son-in-law a 686-3 square butt for Christmas that I put the "Hoghunters" on and really like 'em, which is why I'm getting some for my sq. butt.........
 
I have Crimson Trace Grips on three of my 686 round butt's, a 2.5", 3 & 4-inch and will be getting some CT "Hoghunters" for my 4" square butt 686.

I just gave my son-in-law a 686-3 square butt for Christmas that I put the "Hoghunters" on and really like 'em, which is why I'm getting some for my sq. butt.........

Did you order LG 308?
 
If you plan on this being a zombie gun then do not use the Miculek springs. They are great for competition but the gun may not reliably ignite harder primers like Winchester or Speer. If you want to get some reduction in trigger weight but don't want to do an action job, install the Wolff full power mainspring and 15# return slide spring. That alone, in my limited experience, removes two to three pounds from the trigger weight. If the trigger feels "gritty" some polishing of the base of the return slide and the frame where it rides can help.

For anything beyond that consult a good revolver smith unless you are really comfortable with altering the DA sear, the hand and the cylinder stop.

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The LG-306's for the rd. butt's. Not sure about the model no. for the sq. butt but do know that CT also calls them the "Hoghunter."

Yes, I knew about the "hoghunter" label, it's funny but to the point.I ordered a set of the LG 308's today from EBay for $220.:D
 
New 686

My first handgun was a S&W 686 with 4 inch barrel. I liked it so much I purchased a S&W 686 with a 3 inch barrel. I'm liking that 2 1/2 inch barrel.
 
I have a couple of 686's and I found the triggers to be really stiff but I will not mess with them. The answer is to shoot often and you will get used to the feel.

The best revolver triggers I have found has been on my model 66.

I tend to agree with oldman45. I own a 686-2 and owned a 686-3. Both triggers are stiffier than my K frame magnums. There not bad but they are heavier. Practice and eventually you will get better double action shooting.
Great looking 686.
Howard





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IMG_2066.jpg

As it came from the factory.
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With Eagle Grips' "Secret Service" stocks.

When I first began shooting revolvers in the late 1960s and early 1970s, my shooting buddies and I were greatly influenced by the writings of the late Bill Jordan. As such, double-action shooting (and mastering the trigger) was a paramount issue. Of course, that shooting was done with S&W Model 19s, and the guns back then were super sweet.

It seems that most of what I learned stayed with me, as the pictured 686-6 Plus is a joy to shoot in double-action mode. Once again, mastering the trigger is the key, and with practice, you'll get there.
 
You can put laser grips on the 686, I just happen to keep mine on my 586. These are both no dash from late 1985 with smooth, very sweet triggers. The 686 DA pull is exactly 8lbs and the 586 is exactly 9lbs. Neither has ever had a trigger job. The 586 does have an M stamp on it.
 

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I have a couple of 686's and I found the triggers to be really stiff but I will not mess with them. The answer is to shoot often and you will get used to the feel.

The best revolver triggers I have found has been on my model 66.

I tend to agree with oldman45. I own a 686-2 and owned a 686-3. Both triggers are stiffier than my K frame magnums. There not bad but they are heavier. Practice and eventually you will get better double action shooting.
Great looking 686.
Howard





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Howard, (or anybody else)
Maybe you can help me a bit. I just don't know how the trigger should feel in this gun and I did have a 'smith install the Jerry Miculek kit. The way it feels to me now is that it seems like it pauses just before it breaks, does that sound right? It's like it's telling me "Do you really want to fire this gun?" That's the best way I can explain it and wonder if it's normal.
Thanks
 
Howard, (or anybody else)
Maybe you can help me a bit. I just don't know how the trigger should feel in this gun and I did have a 'smith install the Jerry Miculek kit. The way it feels to me now is that it seems like it pauses just before it breaks, does that sound right? It's like it's telling me "Do you really want to fire this gun?" That's the best way I can explain it and wonder if it's normal.
Thanks

You might be feeling the point at which the cylinder has fully locked up right before the hammer drops. All of my Smith's are noticeable at that point, to some degree or another...none have been worked on, so I don't know if there's a way to reduce it or not...

Cheers,
Tom
 
my 2-1/2" 686 is my absolute favorite! I fell into it (I was getting it for a friend and decided to keep it) and it would be the last one I parted with. A set of Ahrend's Retro Combats is just what the doctor ordered for it.
 
Since the 686 doesn't have the firing pin on the hammer is it OK to "dry fire" it?:confused:

You can dry fire any of them without toy bullets with one exception ----- You don't want to dry fire your 22 revolvers. I kill cowboys and indians every day on TV with a empty gun :D .
 
You might be feeling the point at which the cylinder has fully locked up right before the hammer drops. All of my Smith's are noticeable at that point, to some degree or another...none have been worked on, so I don't know if there's a way to reduce it or not...

Cheers,
Tom

Yes, the cylinder locks up and then the hammer falls with just a tiny nudge of my finger. I guess that means mine is normal.
Thanks
 
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