My personal budget build- M&P 15 base model

[therapture]

Well, I have to say, for my first AR, I am LOVING this platform. It's like having a laser that I can point and shoot with ease! A long time shooter of various guns though so it was easy to pick up an AR. I shot a few hundred rounds first and have made simple mods over the last few months, as I learned what I wanted to do with it. I am a very value conscious person, I like quality AND cheap, sometimes hard to do. So anyways, here it is. I think I did a good job making simple EFFECTIVE mods.


-base model with no forward assist/dust cover, bought at a local gun show 6 mos ago with a Magpul rear MBUS and a cheap ncstar RDS and quad rail. $700.00
-cut down the stock front sight post -free
-EOtech EXPS2-0 (this thing is phenomenal) $539.00
-Spikes ST-T2 buffer $40.00
-Magpul MBUS Gen 2 flip up front sight $39.00
-Magpul MOE stock $38.00
-Magpul MOE grip $25.00
-Magpul Gen2 Pmags - 4 of them for $55
-Geissele SSA 2-stage trigger (like falling in love!) $225.00
-Amazon muzzle brake - loud, but damn it works! $20.00
-UTG drop in slim aluminum handguard (so thin and comfortable!) $65.00
-Vtac padded sling $40.00

Total: $1781.00

As you can see, I spent the cash on parts that REALLY make a difference in comfort and ease of use. The sight is a thing of beauty, I rarely shoot past 100 yards. I removed the stock A2 sight because I wanted 100% clear FOV via the EOtech holo sight. I also liked the ultra secure stock gas block so I just wanted that post out of the way (plus it's a free mod). I want fast acquisition, and with my mild astigmatism, the sight is great with scrip glasses.

The trigger, well, the SSA is wonderful...so clean and crisp! SO easy to shoot and no pull from a stiff or gritty trigger - my stocker was very gritty initially but loosened up a little after cleaning and lube, but I think was STIFF. When shooting at a moving target (hogs, various vermin), I can feel the first stage engage and that makes it easy to engage, aim, and fire as soon as I have a nice sight pic without jerking the gun around from trigger pull.

I have ran @1500 rounds through it so far and it only had a single failure to feed one time when the gun was new (and VERY dry). It has performed WONDERFUL! I zero for 50 meters, where I can consistently hit 2" groups off of a simple tree brace with cheap 5.56 brass Federal XM193. I can do 1.5" with any kind of a bench, I have never tried a sandbag, bipod, or anything special. (that probably sucks but it'll get better with practice). But considering I shoot 90% short distances at 100yds or less, I don't need a range gun since I only use the range for a little fun and dialing in sights. This is a south Texas "brushland/pasture gun" for fast accurate shooting with lots of off hand aiming.

Opinions? Sorry about the crappy pic, apparently black guns are hard to take good pics of!

 

[DocB]

That is really cool. I just bought mine and threw it under the bed (in a case of course) because I wanted to have one that was light weight. The ones I've built up get so dang heavy I tend not to carry or shoot them as much. Weighing in around 6 pounds I figure that little Smith will be the one I pick up to clear out my yard when the SHTF.

 

[therapture]

Yeah I definitely wanted it nice and light. I need to weigh it I guess...it feels light!

 

[matchbook454]

Nice! I just ordered a sport and am looking for mods. Not that the gun needs them but because it's fun to dress these things up!

 

[McE]

We have very, very, different ideas about what a "budget build" is.
I bought my M&P15 Sport for what you paid for the Eotech alone lol
Not something I would need for shooting within 100 yards. If anything I'd be just dandy with a red dot for a tenth of the cost.

matchbook, first mods I would recommend are the grip and stock. I didn't like the original hard plastic grip, went with a nice Hogue. Stock stock wobbled, really like my Magpul CTR stock with two locking levers that eliminate wobble.

 

[Arik]

I'd say the rifle is about $200 overpriced

 

[matchbook454]

Just a question as I just bought my first AR - a MP15 Sport. Are these considered carbines? Looking at dressing it up with a quad rail and see some listed for carbines,mid length, etc.? Like I said, I'm a newbie!

 

[ChiefStealth]

IME, the name used (pistol, carbine, mid, rifle, etc..) is simply to describe the relative length of the parts. An AR-15 Carbine is usually shorter than an AR-15 Rifle. There is no exact standard for what these words mean. It is further complicated by using these names for individual parts. Barrels can be Carbine, or Mid, or Rifle. Gas systems can be Carbine, or Mid, etc... Buffers, and buttstocks can be named that way. And, hand guards/rails can have those names. People mix, and match these different length parts to what ever they want. A carbine buffer with a mid-length barrel, with a mid-length gas system, with a rifle length rail. Or, any combination.
To answer the question, directly, IMHO the Sport is a carbine, only because the various parts are on the shorter side. The parts are not "rifle length". Therefore, the whole thing is called a "Carbine". However, this does not limit you to using only "carbine" parts. You can change parts lengths around to your liking. Some thing are more difficult to change. You can't usually change the gas system length without changing the barrel. Changing the hand guard length can be quite easy.

 

[McE]

Just a question as I just bought my first AR - a MP15 Sport. Are these considered carbines? Looking at dressing it up with a quad rail and see some listed for carbines,mid length, etc.? Like I said, I'm a newbie!

You'll have to look for a carbine length drop-in quad rail, the ones that are free-float will need more things to change on your Sport.

Consider why you want a quad rail, though. I personally think they're bulky and pointless when people buy a huge quad rail only to throw rail covers on it. Holding a quad rail is uncomfortable and awkward, even with rail covers.
Many handguard systems let you add sections of rail only where you need it. One for foregrip maybe, another for a light, what else do you need?

 

[matchbook454]

Thanks for the help guys! I would most likely only be adding a fore grip and maybe a tac light. Any suggestions on good hand guards that would allow me to add these? Not looking to spend a bunch on top end stuff but want something solid and free floating.

 

[McE]

Thanks for the help guys! I would most likely only be adding a fore grip and maybe a tac light. Any suggestions on good hand guards that would allow me to add these? Not looking to spend a bunch on top end stuff but want something solid and free floating.

Maybe you should start your own thread, you're all over the place with what you want.

You're on a budget, your gun presumably isn't a competition target shooter, but you want a free float handguard for some reason on a gun you're going to throw a tac light on which I can only assume means it's more of a defensive rifle where whatever accuracy you eke out from going to free float is insignificant.
You're going to have to remove your front sight gas block. Are you capable of doing this work yourself? Do you have the proper tools? Or will you have to pay someone?

Skip the free float fetish. You want a quad rail, you'll be fine with a drop-in.

 

[matchbook454]

McE, sorry for asking for a little help on the forum. Thought this would be a good place to ask as the thread is about mods. For a few extra bucks, I would take free floating over drop in unless someone can tell me what the advantage of a drop in would be? Like I said, this is my first AR and I'm a newbie. As for any work required, I can do it myself. Just not all that familair with the AR's at the moment.

 

[therapture]

IF you are not going for a tight 1 MOA or less target gun, save the money and don't go free floating. Free floating a handguard relieves some stress (a little) off of the barrel and allows slightly more accurate barrel. Most people with free floaters can't shoot well enough to tell a difference.

Yes, unless you need it, a quad rail is bulky and obtrusive. I chose my handguard specifically to be slim and comfortable. I can add small sections to it if I need to mount a light or something (I doubt I ever will, it's not that kind of gun).

Shoot the gun first, learn the open sights, then make mods based on real world needs/comfort. Hence why I bought a well respected "cheap" gun and did mods over the course of 6 months as I learned what I wanted/liked, and what I was using the gun for.

 

[therapture]

Not something I would need for shooting within 100 yards. If anything I'd be just dandy with a red dot for a tenth of the cost.

It's all about my EYES With astigmatism It's difficult with open sights - seeing that blurry mess on top of the rifle and then having a blurry mess out at 50 yards is no fun. With my glasses, the EOtech reticle is clean and defined AND I can see clearly at distance. Best of both worlds!

 

[McE]

McE, sorry for asking for a little help on the forum. Thought this would be a good place to ask as the thread is about mods. For a few extra bucks, I would take free floating over drop in unless someone can tell me what the advantage of a drop in would be? Like I said, this is my first AR and I'm a newbie. As for any work required, I can do it myself. Just not all that familair with the AR's at the moment.

We all have different definitions of "a few extra bucks" with mine undoubtedly being closer to the literal few bucks.

The advantage of a drop in is: you buy it, you drop it in, you're done. Nothing needs to be done to your rifle, nothing needs to be removed (sling mount might need removing depending on handguard chosen), no tools necessary. Pull down on your delta ring (ribbed collar thing around your barrel where it meets the receiver), pop out the two pieces of your handguard. Reverse the step with your two drop-in pieces and you're done. The handguard I have is a Magpul MOE SL and was maybe $30.

The advantage of free floating is: theoretical improvement of accuracy which you will likely not notice (and imo such improvement is usually negated by a new front sight now mounted on the handguard instead of on the barrel as before), aesthetic reasons depending on taste.
Chances are if you're free floating, you'll probably replace the front sight gas block with a low profile one if you get a handguard that extends past it. Since you're a quad-rail type, you'll then need a new front sight to put on the rail if you plan on having iron sights.
I started typing out the steps involved, but [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBeIAjE1BhI"]here's a video[/ame]. They kept the old front sight gas block while I think the biggest reason to free float is out of necessity if you eliminate that front sight gas block and its handguard retaining ring. I think free floating and keeping the A2 FSB looks dumb, but that's just me. Vid doesn't mention having to reindex the flash hider, as there is one correct orientation for it to sit.
Don't forget to include the cost of the tools you'll need to go free float. New crush washer for flash hider possibly, barrel nut wrench, vise grip block helps you not mess up your entire rifle, punches, and the cost of the new handguard and low profile gas block as well.

 

[HalfStack]

My MP15 is still a KISS model.

 

[MichiganScott]

My MP15 is still a KISS model.

1+

I can't understand adding a bunch of useless accessories to a 6.5lb rifle that turn it into a 10+ lb. rifle, although my match gun weighs close to 14 lbs.

 

[scooter123]

1+

I can't understand adding a bunch of useless accessories to a 6.5lb rifle that turn it into a 10+ lb. rifle, although my match gun weighs close to 14 lbs.

I would agree with this.

Currently I have 2 AR's, both home built. First is my 20 inch Shilen barreled precision rifle in 223 Wylde. With the Nikon M223 3-12x42 scope it's over 11 lbs but will shoot sub 1/2 MOA with two different handloads I've worked up for it.

Second is my 16 inch 300 Blackout, a back to basics flat top with simple flip up sights as the only sighting system. With that sighting setup my accuracy is more in the range of 3 MOA but it only tips the scales at 6 lbs. 5 ounces. BTW, I have mounted a scope on it to do load testing and it will shoot to 3/4 MOA but I built it to be an iron sighted rifle and I intend to keep it that way.

 

[matchbook454]

Thanks for all of the input guys. Everyone has their own opinions and ideas and that is what I think is great about this rifle. There are so many options. I like the looks and general concept of the op's rifle. I would probably do mine fairly similar but not all at once, just one step at a time. I am thinking I will add optics first. Then maybe remove the a frame sight and add a lp gas block and a utg hand guard and flip up front sight. Following that possibly a fore grip, different stock and possibly different grip. This is just what I am thinking about doing right now. I will most likely go with a drop in hand guard as well as this will not be a long range rifle and it does seem like free float will be a pita. Thanks again for your input guys.

 

[McE]

Well the thing about the free float is, it's simple if you're going to be removing your flash hider and front sight gas block anyway (and you do have to remove the flash hider to change the FSGB to a low pro), and if you already have a barrel nut wrench.

It's kind of like a car engine. There are small jobs you 'might as well do' while you have it all apart. Saves you time and maybe money if you do it all at once.