My secret love: the C96 Mauser "broomhandle"

It's a good idea to replace all of the springs in a C96 with a Wolff set if you're planning to shoot it. Also check the bolt stop very carefully with a magnifying glass for cracks. In fact, if you have a matching number bolt stop, you might consider picking up a replacement and using it for shooting.
(And don't be too upset if you need to replace the extractor at some point.:()
 
I picked up one from China years ago. The old time Chinese seemed wild about them. all of there 7.65 Mauser/tokerov[sp] ammo is C-96 safe however is corrosive and neeeds cleaned up right away.
Cheep reloadable cases can be made from 5.56/223 cases. 1) full length size in mauser die, 2) hack off most of neck 3) Trim to length & ream neck to .308 or .311 [can be done in one step on a Forrester Trimmer] and reload. With a band saw and a drill powered trimmer I made about 200 unprimed cases an hour- in my haste i'd loose 5-10 in the trimming process. I always used military brass that the pimer crimp was removed from and had been reloaded 1 or 2 times.
There is very little rifleing in mine but Chinese [Norinco] shot 2-2 1/2 inches, the Russian not so well, worse than cast reloads about 6-8 inches at 100 feet.
In the era these were made, I belive the sights to be correct out to 1000 whatevers, as volly fire would be the norm, but I don't know if it would go through your coat at that distance??? A 1000 yards it only has 26.5 pounds of energy and mid range of over 3600 inches! and it got there 4 plus seconds after the rifle rounds, but you would be a part of the group action and close to the barn size target.
All and all a great gun to shoot and plink with. By the way, I used 223 strippers with 8 rounds in them to get by.
 
Thanks, armyphotog, I'd like to hear how it comes out. I think a new recoil spring will solve yur problem.
 
Cyrano, Springs arrived. I installed the recoil spring which was shorter by the way, that the one I pulled out. Rain has kept me from the range to check it out, but it is slamming shut with no delay, so I expect it to perform prefectly. Will try to shoot it before weekend. Had a little trouble getting it back together, but finally did. Not holding my mouth right, I guess.

Second question. the firing spring is longer than the one currently on the gun, and a warning from Wolff stating, "firing pin spring requires fitting to the firing pin for the correct firing pin protrusion." Do happen to know how I am susposed to determine the correct length? The current spring stops at about the tip of the pin.
 
Hurray!! It worked!! it worked!!
I've never checked firing pin protrusion, but I'd proceed as follows; push the firing pin as far forward as you can get it. You can do this with a small screwdriver in the slot at the rear of the firing pin. If it protrudes from the bolt face a reasonable amount (not less than the depth of the firing pin indent in a fired primer), it's OK. However, I would probably continue to use the original firing pin spring if it hasn't given you any trouble.
 
Cyrano, Fired 40 rounds, (4 clips) everything A-OK in the bolt return department. Thanks for the tip.

Now I am noticing a really whimpy trigger return. Have to take the finger completely off the trigger to get it to recycle. Does that mean I have a mainspring problem? (I hope not, because it looks almost impossible to get to.) Or, perhaps that's just the way it is suppose to be. (wishful thinking.)
 
The trigger spring is a flat spring and is easy to replace.
The problem will be in finding one. Numrich shows them currently sold out. Maybe some other supplier.
(They are a special shape but you might be able to file one out using the old one for a pattern.)
 
Try ""The Broom Closet", They don't appear to have an e-mail but their phone # is 904 964-5053. Their price list shows the trigger return spring for $10. Deadin must know something I don't as I find it difficult to fiddle with the trigger return spring: it's at the bottom of the receiver, and best handled with long, needle nosed pliers. Perhaps you can just put some more bend in yours. The mainspring isn't hard to get out, but you need some muscle to do it, as the spring is pretty strong.
 
Found one in England for $25.50. Am waiting to hear from them to make sure is new and not used.

Couldn't get answers from England that satisfied me. Found one at SARCO, and have replaced it. It seems fine but still need to take it to the range to be certain. Will keep everyone posted.

Shoots like it is brand new. Thanks for all the suggestions and advice.
 
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Both of my C96's trigger springs have a small hole toward the front. A small probe that will fit in this hole will let you pry up the front of the spring and disengage it from the magazine floorplate plunger. (the spring does double duty)
You can then just slide it to the rear and slip it out from under the "keeper" slots. To replace just reverse the procedure.... slide it in until the ears start into the slots and then use the probe in the hole to pry the front up, slide it forward and re-engage the plunger.
 
deadin, the floor plate plunger is not round spring loaded at the bottom as well?

English dealer does not have them. Will try the Broom Closet if I can hold the thought.
 
The floor plate plunger isn't spring loaded at the bottom. The only spring is the trigger spring which fits into that groove on the top of the plunger. Incidently I made up a tool for pushing down on the plunger to remove the floorplatge. It was an old toothbrush, whose handle I cut down and pointed. Doesn't scratch the floorplate and works fine.
 
Another use for an old toothbrush is to file it down so it just slides into the charger guides on the receiver and use it to hold the bolt back if you don't have stripper clips for loading. (You might even be able to use the other end of your floorplate tool.);)
 
Clever, deadin!! I'll have to try that; two tools in one. Sorta like the way the rest of the pistol is designed; lots of the parts have two functions. Someone once gave me a piece of thin stamped metal, about 1.5 inches long that went between the bolt ears and the back of the receiver to hold the bolt open.
 
I bought a Broomhandle for $150 off one of my warrant officers during the early 90s. Bolt broke when shooting Hansen 7.63mm Mauser/7.63 Tokorev ammo. Gun was getting repaired when it was stolen from the gunsmith after he was broken into. Its always on my wish list.

CD
 
Paladin-CONGRATS you have a beauty there,& Buck is correct steer clear of Ruskie machinegun ammo-way too hot. $ a bit more but I had no problems with Fiocch 7.63 Mauser & love the "blast flame" that leaves the barrel. Very nice pic/display & like the WW1 Knights Cross.
P.S don't forget Charlie's story
 
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