My Webley .455

[Texas Star]

Those smooth factory rosewood (?) target stocks alone are worth a bit, too. And they should feel good in your hand.

This is a very desirable gun. Having those grips makes it really special, although a collector would prefer the original stocks/grips. But some will pay at least a couple of hundred just for the grips!

I think Hornady and Fiochhi still load .455 ammo.

Your gun was at one time Crown property, but if it doesn't have what looks like an arrowhead marked on it (Broad Arrow), it wasn't issued to troops as govt. property. It was sold Out of Stores to an individual officer.

I got quite a laugh out of your story about the lanyard ring and lanterns! Someone was either very ignorant or was having you on when they told you that tale! Think of pictures that you've probably seen of Canadian Mounties. Remember that lanyard that goes from their gun to their neck? It was to keep the gun from being lost if knocked from the owner's hand or to keep it from falling into a river, etc.

Take care of that gun. It is history in your hand, and is probably as fine an example of revolver craftsmanship as was ever made. The stocks alone are very worthwhile to have!

Oh: if you find a Broad Arrow, but it is enclosed in a capital "C", the gun was supplied to Canadian forces.

T-Star
P.S. Just saw your later pics, which are pretty bad. But the name Smith & Wesson doesn't even show on the barrel?! That is a LOT of polish before rebluing. Can someone with a better camera and photographic skills show the barrel, where the name should be?

 

[mkk41]

Nice. I have a Colt New Service in .455 Eley with British marks.

 

[jimmyj]

Hi:
Those are impressive grips.
Jimmy

 

[Dave_n]

Though not the triple lock, I have two of the next series, the HE Mk II. One in 0.455 and the other bored through for 0.45 with the cylinder faced off. However, 0.45 AR with a 0.454 255 grain bullet makes it an accurate pistol, as good as its 0.455 sibling (which I also reload for using 0.455 Mk II brass from Graf's). It is Hornady brass, but you cannot buy it from them. Dave_n

 

[Oaklands]

Texas Star, I could not get a good light to get it to show up. Inside, the flash would be to bright and I didn't have a good place outside to take it as I was at the office by myself. I will try to take a better pic and get it up next week.

Mkk41, nice gun. This has turned out to be a very interesting thread. I really learn a lot from people on the S&W forum. Everyone is always willing to chime in and give you information. I wish all forums were like this.

BTW, I have a friend who does the books for a gun store. They have 3 or 4 great gunsmiths there. I believe it is best for them to take a look at the rust issue.

 

[44 special Dave]

In refernce to Smith and Wesson not showing on the barrel, I seem to remember that "some" barrels had no markings on them.

I know for sure there are 455s that had no caliber markings on the barrel but not 100% sure about Smith and Wesson.

My failing memory tells me I saw a triplelock in a store once that was a 455 but had neither Smith and Wesson nor caliber markings on the barrel.

Someone else chime in please. If my memory is correct, this may not be a refinish.

Dave

 

[deadin]

Dave,
Your memory hasn't failed you...........yet.

My .455 TL has nothing on the barrel other than the two line top marking. No ".455" and no "Smith & Wesson" on the sides of the barrel.
(With serial 718 on mine and 618 on the OPs, I would say theis was standard on these early contract guns.)

 

[handejector]

DO NOT put naval jelly on a gun!!!!

Nice gun you have. It was a Brit contract gun. It was not one of the 44's converted to 455- it was originally built as a 455.
It has not been reblued.

Correct guys- many of the early guns have no side barrel markings.
Many of the 455-2nd models have no caliber markings. Many do. They alternate, marked and unmarked, all the way thru the production, though most later 2nd's are caliber marked.

Thanks for the "Lantern Loop" story- I had never heard that one before.

 

[rburg]

So, Lee, do you recommend KY jelly on your gun? What about your rifle?

Back to the thread.... Be careful quoting the 5000 number of Triple locks. Its just a ball park guess. I had 5022 and it was a triple lock, and I owned another, maybe 5019 I forget. The numbers of the production run came from Roy, and he even commented in the past it was just an estimate.

Triple Locks and 2nd Model 455s occupy their own serial sequence, not to be confused with the domestic market numbers.

 

[Gary7]

I've used naval jelly on semi-auto barrels to remove the bluing. The main thing when using naval jelly on anything is to wash it off thoroughly with soap and water to neutralize the acid.

 

[handejector]

In "History of", Roy states that the change from TL to 2nd Model occurs between 5000 and 6000 of the serial number range as the factroy used up the old parts.
In late 1916, another 691 were assembled from leftover parts they discovered, so it is definitely safe to say well over 5000 TL's in 455 were built.

 

[Muley Gil]

"I've used naval jelly on semi-auto barrels to remove the bluing."

Oaklands,

Bluing is a form of rust. Naval Jelly removes rust.

To quote our fearful, uh, fearless leader:

"DO NOT put naval jelly on a gun!!!!"

unless you want to remove the bluing.

 

[Gary7]

"I've used naval jelly on semi-auto barrels to remove the bluing."

Bluing is a form of rust. Naval Jelly removes rust.

To quote our fearful, uh, fearless leader:

"DO NOT put naval jelly on a gun!!!!"

unless you want to remove the bluing.

Yes, I know what bluing is. And if your goal is to remove the bluing, naval jelly will do it. I thought his prohibition against using naval jelly was an unqualified "DON'T DO IT!" and I was wondering why if the goal was to remove some or all the bluing. (I agree that naval jelly is not the remedy for rust on a gun.)

 

[Muley Gil]

"Yes, I know what bluing is."

I changed my last post to direct my comments to Oaklands, the original poster. He wanted to use Naval Jelly to remove some rust.

 

[mkk41]

Are the S&Ws chambered for .455 Webley or .455 Eley? They are not the same round , as the .455 Eley (aka .455 Colt) has a longer case with a heavier bullet.

 

[deadin]

They will take either one. Actually they are chambered in .455 Mark I or Mark II.
The Brits had a host of different "Marks" of different bullet weights, shapes and case lengths. They were wise enough to make their military revolvers pretty much "backward compatible" so they could handle just about any of the various types.

 

[Oaklands]

I WILL NOT be bluing it, but will be taking it to a gunsmith to see what he can do to help. I want to keep it as original as possible (minus the rust of course).

Springfield is on the barrel, but I don't believe the .455 is there. I am going to try and get a better picture of it on Monday to post. I have to work on a better lighting source to get it to show up good.

 

[Jack Flash]

Most of us here "have a lot to learn" about photography, so don't worry if your pix aren't perfect. Any picture is better than no picture so keep 'em coming!

 

[Texas Star]

These Triple Lock .455's definitely saw combat. Elmer Keith mentioned in Sixguns that a Canadian friend told him that he'd shot three Germans with one. They were all DRT. (Dead Right There.)

The range was the distance across a shell crater.

T-Star

 

[JSR III]

Try removing the rust with some gun oil and your fingernail. Gently scrape the rust/crust while saturated with the gun oil. This usually removes any surface accumulation and allows the oil to get to the metal. The marr will always be present but the barrel will not continue to rust. The only way to mask the corrosion or pitting is to refinish the gun and as has all ready been stated you definitely don't want to do that.

Once the surface appears rust free, clean the area with a solvent, like alcohol, to remove the oil, then apply a coat of wax to the area or the whole gun for that matter. Renaissance Wax is my favorite, but there are other brands available. You can buy it online for short money. Make sure that you keep the once rusted area protected as it will always be more prone to rust than the rest of the finish. Then just enjoy this wonderful piece of history. I hope that helps.