Need help identifying-first post!

[JM303]

First post, I hope I do things correctly...

I was given this old revolver by one of my in-laws. Only thing he knew about it is his grandfather owned a small local grocery store and this revolver hung on a nail behind the register for 25+ years and he remembers seeing it as a young man. When his grandfather passed away, he inherited the revolver and gifted it to me since he knows I like firearms. Hand ejector, serial number in the photos, .38 S&W Special, I haven't measured the barrel but I would guess 4-5", fixed sights, strain screw on the front strap, 5 screws. Any help is appreciated as I've never owned a S&W that didn't have the model number notated. Thanks in advance for any help that can provided or if someone can just point me in the right direction!

 

[quinn]

I believe that is a 38 Military and Police model from the mid to late 1920s. Model numbers would not begin for another 3 decades. Yours is considered a "Named" model.

 

[JM303]

I believe that is a 38 Military and Police model from the mid to late 1920s. Model numbers would not begin for another 3 decades. Yours is considered a "Named" model.

Thanks for the information!

 

[Hawg Rider]

Welcome to the Forum! As quinn mentioned, you inherited a nickel 4" .38 Military & Police (M&P) revolver which dates to approx. mid to late 1920s (per s/n 541660). Some other Forum members may be able to narrow down the date for you. These were sometimes aka the .38 M&P Model of 1905 4th Change, and had 2", 4", 5", or 6" barrels. It appears to be wearing the original diamond center checkered walnut stocks (grips). To verify the barrel length, measure from the front of the cylinder to the muzzle, but it sure looks like a 4". It looks like your revolver could use a little TLC...you might try removing the wood stocks and gently polishing the nickel frame, cylinder, and barrel with some Flitz Polish (or Mother's Mag Wheel Polish) and a microfiber cloth. This will help remove a little rust and protect the remaining finish. You could follow up with some paste wax (Renaissance Wax or Johnson's Paste Wax). There were literally millions of M&P revolvers manufactured by S&W over many decades, so your revolver is not particularly rare or valuable. It is however a nice family heirloom that can be passed down for many years to come. If you intend to shoot it, I would suggest that you take it to your local gun store and have them check it out first. Enjoy!

 

[JM303]

Welcome to the Forum! As quinn mentioned, you inherited a nickel 4" .38 Military & Police (M&P) revolver which dates to approx. mid to late 1920s (per s/n 541660). Some other Forum members may be able to narrow down the date for you. These were sometimes aka the .38 M&P Model of 1905 4th Change, and had 2", 4", 5", or 6" barrels. It appears to be wearing the original diamond center checkered walnut stocks (grips). To verify the barrel length, measure from the front of the cylinder to the muzzle, but it sure looks like a 4". It looks like your revolver could use a little TLC...you might try removing the wood stocks and gently polishing the nickel frame, cylinder, and barrel with some Flitz Polish (or Mother's Mag Wheel Polish) and a microfiber cloth. This will help remove a little rust and protect the remaining finish. You could follow up with some paste wax (Renaissance Wax or Johnson's Paste Wax). There were literally millions of M&P revolvers manufactured by S&W over many decades, so your revolver is not particularly rare or valuable. It is however a nice family heirloom that can be passed down for many years to come. If you intend to shoot it, I would suggest that you take it to your local gun store and have them check it out first. Enjoy!

Thank you! Not worried about value, as I’ll never sell it and it’ll stay in the family. It definitely needs some TLC, thanks for the tips…I’ll give those a try!

 

[JP@AK]

M&P serial number 541660 points to c. 1926. It might have shipped in 1927, probably not later. The extractor rod knob changed in 1927, and yours still has the older style.

The stocks are period correct and should have the gun's serial number on the inside of the right panel.

 

[JM303]

M&P serial number 541660 points to c. 1926. It might have shipped in 1927, probably not later. The extractor rod knob changed in 1927, and yours still has the older style.

The stocks are period correct and should have the gun's serial number on the inside of the right panel.

Thank you! I haven't taken them off to check, do you mean the serial number will be on the stocks themselves? Or the serial number will be engraved in the metal in that location?

 

[cgt4570]

Welcome to the club!
As others have said, its only real value is as an heirloom, but it should make a FINE shooter. You can't hurt its finish at this point, so might as well polish the oxidized areas so they don't stand out as much. Hopefully the bore is better than the finish. Since you're new to pre-war Smiths, you'll love the smoothness of the long action.

 

[JM303]

Welcome to the club!
As others have said, its only real value is as an heirloom, but it should make a FINE shooter. You can't hurt its finish at this point, so might as well polish the oxidized areas so they don't stand out as much. Hopefully the bore is better than the finish. Since you're new to pre-war Smiths, you'll love the smoothness of the long action.

Thank you! I learned to shoot on a S&W Model 66-1, but the older models I have ZERO experience!

 

[JP@AK]

do you mean the serial number will be on the stocks themselves?

Yes. It will be on the inside of the right-hand stock panel. Since your revolver is from the 1920s, it will be written on the walnut with a pencil. These can be hard to see, but if you shine a bright flashlight on it at an angle and look through a magnifying glass, it should show up.

 

[JM303]

Yes. It will be on the inside of the right-hand stock panel. Since your revolver is from the 1920s, it will be written on the walnut with a pencil. These can be hard to see, but if you shine a bright flashlight on it at an angle and look through a magnifying glass, it should show up.

Great, thank you!

 

[JM303]

Yes. It will be on the inside of the right-hand stock panel. Since your revolver is from the 1920s, it will be written on the walnut with a pencil. These can be hard to see, but if you shine a bright flashlight on it at an angle and look through a magnifying glass, it should show up.

You were correct, serial number written in pencil exactly where you said it’d be. Thank you!

 

[JM303]

I just wanted to thank everyone for the information, I learned more in a few posts than I ever imagined. The bad part…now I’m hunting for another on Smith!! Thanks again everyone!

 

[JD3006]

Outstanding heirloom, with a great story. I'm interested in how well it cleans up. Please post a picture.

 

[RKmesa]

...The bad part…now I’m hunting for another on Smith!!

JM:

I fail to understand the "bad part" in hunting for another Smith. That is one of my favorite pastimes and I find great joy in the hunt. If you hunt long enough and dilligently enough, you at times can find great deals that are not so hard on your pocketbook.

Welcome to the forum and Happy Hunting.

 

[gdogs]

I think you'd be surprised at how nice that old shooter could look after some hand polishing with Mother's Mag Polish. Just strip it down, put the side plate back on and spend some wasted tv time doing something productive (while watching tv )!

 

[pasound]

The serial is on the bottom of the grip frame, and on these older ones, on the bottom of the barrel seen when you open the cylinder, and on the back of the cylinder.
Sometimes, grips are replaced, so they are not necessarily marked as the correct one for your gun.