Need Help! Just got a broken 686

Sounds like a broken or misplaced hand spring to me also. Since I've never had to fool with putting one right I'll leave that to others. However, be forewarned, everything I've read indicates it can be a real bugger to get right the first time you do it, which is why I've been VERY careful to not do anything that might put it out of place. I would suggest that you post in the Smithing section specifically asking for help with the hand spring on a 686. We have members who can do this with their eyes closed so all you have to do is ask.

BTW, once you get that 686 working right you won't regret this acquisition one bit. You'll also probably come to the conclusion that you've come out a bit ahead on this trade even if you don't think so right now.
 
Alright, I took it apart and cleaned it, no gunk no nothing. Still cleaned it oiled it, wanted to throw it putting it back together. But I made a discovery.

It only screws up when I aim the pistol upward or semi level. When I aim it at the ground it cycles perfectly.

So now what?

Sounds like the hand spring is not installed correctly. Did you remove the hand from the trigger? If not, then this is probably the source of your problem.

The spring should be forcing the hand towards the muzzle of the gun. If is not installed correctly the hand will not engage the cylinder ratchet right, and you'll see the kind of erratic action you showed in your vid.

For anyone wanting to work on their S&W I recommend getting the Kuhnhausen shop manual. You can find them at Amazon and Midway.

That, and the Wheeler Eng. 70-some odd screwdriver set will get you pretty far if you are mechanically inclined. Otherwise, the money is better spent on a FedEx charge back to the factory.

Good luck, I think your close to having a functioning gun!

ETA Beaten by faster typists, apparently!
 
I vote for smith357 answer double action sear and thanks for pictures I always learn alot when on this site.. swell bunch here
 
I need to find a gunsmith in Northwest Arkansas.
Try a call to the Washington Co. Sheriff's office. They ran revolvers for a LONG time, finishing up with 686's. As I recall there was a deputy there (might be retired by now) who understood revolvers well.

Since this is your first revolver, you might want to let a 'smith or armorer do the work this time. You can cause expensive damage to a 'Smith revolver if you lack the specialized screwdrivers (and knowledge of how to use them).
 
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So it isn't dirt, next I agree it is the hand or pawl, (same thing) spring is an easy fix IF you know what you are doing. I bet you will love this gun when you see it is a simple fix.

It could be that the guy took it apart and removed the hand from the trigger. That releases the spring, which is held in place by a pin in the trigger, and just didn't know what he did. Get a punch that is the same width as the slot in the trigger and push the spring up enough to get the pin on the hand in and release the spring and wa-la. All fixed.;)

John
 
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Well definitely hand (pawl) spring; my point-up point down test never fails. But neither do the hand springs in all my experience.

I think 2hawk is right, someone (before you got it) pulled the hand out of its hole in the trigger and "uncocked" the spring. It's such an easy job I hate to see you be without the gun and especially pay someone to fix it.

It's a 10 minute job including side plate on and off; I don't even take the trigger out of the gun anymore, just the trigger rebound spring and block. I won't work on 'em anymore without using 10 power glasses tho at my age.

Since you got the sideplate off and on, if you were to google 'smith assembly' and see a picture of it, I'm sure you could handle it yourself (in the morning after a good nite's sleep, smile).
 
OK, I need to get something straight. The cylinder is working properly correct, its the hammer that is the problem? When you said the cylinder just spins, did you mean the cylinder turns properly, but the hammer doesnt fall back properly? If this is the case, It SHOULD NOT be the hand or hand spring as sugggested. If it fires properly in the downward position, but not upwards or level, I still stick with my first diagnosis of the double action sear causing the problem. With the new information, I agree with others that it is the sear spring. If the sear moves freely with no resistance when you push the bottom in, then the spring is the culprit.
 
As far as the cylinder being hard to open, the usual suspect is the extractor rod being loose. Open the cylinder and check to see if its tight.
 
Great advice from very knowledgeable colleagues! Were it me I would call S&W and have them rectify the real problem and then ask them to make sure that it meets or exceeds S&W's standards for safety.
You are going love shooting this gun!!
Randy
 
Found a certified gunsmith and talked to him about the problems. Less than 2 wk turnaround and $35 standard shop charge plus parts. I feel that's fair. Dropping it off after work
 

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