Need help light strikes

[goodlooking]

Can anybody advise me?
My 29-2 strikes light (does not ignite primer) every couple pf shots, double action only. Ive installed a new mainspring and tightened it down well- all other strikes (D.A and S.A) are very deep , so thats not it.
The light strikes are not ammo related (ive checked) and not in any particular chamber (checked that as well)\What can be the problem?

 

[Pizza Bob]

Is your new mainspring one with a "Power Rib"? If so, the strain screw probably is not long enough as it bears on the recess of the rib.

If that's not it, I've go nothing. Good luck.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

 

[armorer951]

Along with what has already been posted, light strikes can have a variety of causes, including.....

improperly seated primers

DCU, or cylinder doesn't carry up (primer strikes off center)

damage to the hammer nose or hammer nose bushing

dirt and shooting debris on and under the extractor, and or, on breechface. Use a brass brush/old toothbrush and a magnifier

dirt and shooting debris in the cylinder assembly

excessive end shake or head space... end shake should be around .001" to .002", rear gauge should measure .060" - .068". Check this after a good cleaning and wipe down. Feeler gauge should be inserted between the rear of the cylinder and the breechface, just below the top strap.

The troubleshooting list goes on and on.


Carter

 

[robertrwalsh]

Was this with factory ammo? I know it is an expensive proposition but try three or four cylinders full of factory new .44 special or .44 magnum and see if you still get failures.

 

[oink]

Is this during rapid fire double action? Could the cyinder be counter rotating during recoil recovery and is the hammer then comming down on an already fired chamber?

 

[minconrevo]

My first thought is that what you may think is the factory strain screw really is not. I've never had a power rib mainspring fail to pop properly seated primers when using a factory length stock strain screw.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

My 29-2 strikes light (does not ignite primer) every couple pf shots, double action only. Ive installed a new mainspring and tightened it down well- all other strikes (D.A and S.A) are very deep , so thats not it.

The light strikes are not ammo related (ive checked) ...

So sometimes you get a light strike but usually you get a deep strike. That is a sign of an 'amateur's' trigger job. Like my PPC revolvers have the same strike on every DA trigger pull.

What factory ammunition are you using?

 

[USBP SW]

I would concur with Minconrevo check the strain screw. Some people ground the strain screw, instead of backing it off to reduce the trigger pull. I was always a proponent of shooting a revolver smooth, rather than accelerating wear by polishing and adjusting spring weight, thereby affecting reliability.
Incidentally, primer strikes often appear considerably different when the cartridge fires and the setback deepens the firing pin indentation.

 

[Beju]

My first thought is that what you may think is the factory strain screw really is not. I've never had a power rib mainspring fail to pop properly seated primers when using a factory length stock strain screw.

From what Wolff Gunsprings said when I called, that's how it usually goes with the hammer nose firing pin revolvers.

Frame mounted firing pin revolvers are a different story. My 686-6 needed a longer strain screw to reliably ignite harder primers (Winclean, Magnum primers, and Argentine Servicios y Aventuras) in DA with the "Factory Standard" Power Rib mainspring.

 

[rockquarry]

Don't tamper with or replace springs if you want 100% reliability. The factory setup works surprisingly well. Shoot your gun enough to get used to it and you'll likely have no desire to modify it.