Hello I have a cannon 64 gun safe at the moment and well it decided this last weekend to not let me in. It has an electronic lock and I want to get away from that. I live in a rural area and not a lot of lock smiths. I called cannon and they said it will have to be drilled and they will not pay for the service. They will send me parts. The safe is 3yrs old. I looked a the gun store close to me and they have a liberty Lincoln safe I really like. Its pricy at the moment for me and was curious your thoughts on the liberty and about financing one? Thanks
I had been a dealer for National Security Safes who was also the licensed Smith & Wesson Safe manufacturer (same safe, different die cut gold lettering on the door for an additional 10% over the price of the NSS exact same model).
Although I stopped dealing NSS Safes after they sold out (and the safes got cheaper looking and had spatter paint instead of fine finishes), I stopped dealing NSS and S&W safes completely. That as 20 years ago (appx) but continued to service NSS safes in South Florida. Not much goes wrong with them. But enough of that, you have a Canon so the emphasis is on the manufacturer of the locking mechanism.
I still buy the original NSS Safes when they pop up for sale. Outstanding quality.
What is the name brand of your electronic lock. Is it as S&G (Sargent & Greenleaf) or other. If S&G, they are very sensitive to the batteries. Check first to see that the contacts are not corroded. If you had some acid leakage it might take some time and specific tools to clean the internal contact but well worth it. Use only a brand, BRAND new, Duracell battery and try again.
if your digital dial combination lock is banged, booger or hacked ... or ... you have already tried to remove it, the process I mention will likely NOT work.
If it is NOT a S&G, try the same process of changing the battery as described above anyway.
I stress a BRAND NEW DURACELL battery. Let me know how that works for you.
If you "MUST" cut it open, the bottom floor plate will likely be the easiest to cut open. Most likely an automotive grade panel cutter on an air chisel should work fine. After that the rear wall is likely the next thinnest or just as thin as the floor plate.
If the air chisel is not getting it for you, Drill a large enough start hole then use a fine toothed blade (specified cutting steel) on a Milwaukee Sawzall (or other brand of same machine, Milwaukee Sawzall was, to this type of saw, as Xerox was to "copier").
Avoid torches !! ESPECIALLY if safe is had material lining and insulation.
If you must use anything heated, be aware that the interior, even if asbestos composite, could burn through and damage the contents. If you decide you need to cut with a torch (as all else has failed) go to the best welder or auto body shop in town to have him use his plasma cutter on the bottom floor plate or rear wall of the safe. Plasma cutter makes a very clean cut with concentrated energy and very little spark in the hands of an experienced operator.
hope that helps.