Yes Please,
Let me know what I need to do, id like to disassemble and clean this properly.
Okay, with all due respect to the gentleman who suggested an ultrasonic cleaning at the local gun shop, that sort of thing is much akin to fishing tackle. Most folks will tell you fishing tackle is made to catch fish. The fact of the matter is fishing tackle is made to sell to fishermen. So too it is with ultrasonic cleaning, which at first blush might seem to be for cleaning guns. Let me suggest it's to sell to folks who lack a complete understanding of the term clean. So too it is with folks who clean guns in an assembled state with the contents of spray cans. To them, given the stated fact the gun functions and goes bang when called upon to do so, is proof positive it doesn't need cleaning. To those of us who populate the lunatic fringe, it needs cleaning because it's dirty. And if it's going to be cleaned, it needs to be done properly----as in obsessive compulsive properly.
As to the cost of the special tools, send me a bill (PO Box 269, Pikeville, TN 37367).
End of mini-rant!
The special tool is a piece of wooden dowel rod, and comes to you compliments of Mike Priwer, who is the resident wizard on these guns---perhaps more so on their immediate predecessors. The trigger spring is of the leaf variety---and is pinned into the front strap. It is under compression with the trigger at rest. Dave Chicoine, gunsmith and gunsmithing author extraordinaire just might have made a little boo-boo when he suggests removing the trigger spring pin (That would be the one for the spring under compression) with a pin punch---at which point the trigger assembly may be removed. (It is noteworthy the trigger assembly is to be removed AND replaced as an assembly.) The thought of removing that pin under those circumstances made my teeth hurt, but I did it anyway-----and broke my punch----just as I feared I might. Dave also recommends using "spreader pliers" to compress the trigger spring so as to facilitate replacement of the pin. I did that too. It was no fun at all!! At this point I don't remember just how Mike got involved, but thank God for small favors---and thank Mike too.
So------the special tool: A wooden dowel rod---1/4" diameter is a handy size. The length is to be determined.
Its use: Remove the mainspring and hammer, and stick the rod in place. (The place is one end on the trigger spring, the other end is on the frame across the way. The purpose of all this is twofold: To be able to remove the trigger assembly, and to then be able to remove the trigger spring in a relaxed state. Here's the procedure: Pull the trigger all the way to the rear, and hold it. (The spring is now fully compressed, and the rod is to be put in place---one end against the spring, the other end across the way against the interior of the frame. The fitting procedure is known as trial and error---also known as "cut to suit and beat to fit". The purpose of the tool/rod is to keep the spring FULLY compressed---see to it. Now move the trigger all the way forward, and remove the trigger assembly as an assembly (the trigger, the hand, the trigger lever, and the rebound lever) Pull the hand to the rear to clear the frame.) Reassembly is the reverse of the above----as they say. I think I'm through. Let me know if I'm not. I'm not---now you can yank the special tool out----and get on with removing the spring----springs need cleaning too---as do the holes they fit in.
Special Tool #2: This one is my creation. I reckon anybody who has taken one of these apart (especially when they're filthy) has done the same thing---or similar. This tool is known as a feeler gauge. I use a .0015". .002" would probably work. This is in place of a helper who would most certainly be in your way, and would most certainly drive you nuts telling you to be careful. The cylinder stop assembly is almost certainly frozen in place. It may work just fine, but it is not even remotely inclined to come out. (They'll fall out when they're clean.)
So---we're going to pry this thing out----with extreme care---and extreme patience. Here's how: Poke the cylinder stop itself down as far as it will go (through the opening in the frame) and stick the feeler gauge in between the top of the cylinder stop and the underside of the frame---to cover the cylinder stop hole. Now we pry. We insert the special tool/feeler gauge and start prying AFTER you've soaked this mess in whatever you prefer for a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG time-----wouldn't hurt to rock it up and down while it's soaking. The pry bar: A little screw driver. Place it under the cylinder stop "arm" or whatever you want to call it----right up against the assembly to minimize any bending loads on the arm. I've called this a pry bar---it's a wiggle bar---just wiggle it-----wiggle-wiggle-wiggle. Eventually, maybe a little sooner, the assembly will move upward (as in out of its little nook). It probably won't move much, but you're almost home. Stop the wiggling under the arm as soon as you have enough space under the assembly, and pry under the assembly. It will move. The cardinal rule is any force is bad, and more force is worse---easy does it. They haven't made any of these parts for over a hundred years!!
A PM is on the way.
Ralph Tremaine
