Need immediate HELP

[Thinnes]

Took my guns out today. My pre 27 had purple spots on the cylinder which came off with g96 and elbow grease. The pre 28 finish feels differently when I polish it. My MP pre 10 from David Carroll was almost perfect. Today I noticed a very rough spot by the sw logo on the right side. Almost like pitting. I’m 99.9 % certain it wasn’t there b4. I had told my wife it was the best finished gun I have. I’m storing the guns in a piece of wooden furniture that locks. Not much air flow. All three guns were in a gun sock/sleeve made by Borestore. I tried to find a thread from 2 months ago from a guy whose grampas gun deteriorated quickly while stored.
I gave all guns a good wipe down and cleaning with g96. I don’t have any other products, being new. What if I gave each gun a qwik bath in g96 and water, like a 15 second dip? My lgs is closed. Pls give me you thoughts. The nickel guns seem ok, as does my 29-2 (newer). Thanks Dave. I’m just sick. The guns have been in the sleeves 3-4 wks

 

[Bullseye 2620]

I'm sorry for your trouble. I'm thinking maybe the armorer from Indiana who can often be found on the Gunsmithing board can help.

 

[bigwagon]

I don't know anything about a gun sock, but I wouldn't use one. I have been wiping my guns down with CLP, Ballistol or light gun oil for the last 40 years and have never had a problem in any part of the country where I've lived.

 

[Plain Old Dave]

Rem Oil. Wal-Mart has it. Where are you?

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[Thinnes]

2 miles from Cedar Rapids wal mart

 

[Plain Old Dave]

Heavy coat, let it soak for a while, wipe off. Happen to have any Ballistol?

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[weatherby]

I'm not sure why you mentioned water ?
Get some gun oil Sir

 

[DWalt]

Wax your guns for storage. Johnson's paste wax works well.

You might see if you can rub the affected areas with copper wool (Chore Boy, most supermarkets carry it) and any light oil - penetrating oil, 3-in-1, sewing machine oil, gun oil, even bore cleaner will work.

 

[glowe]

Never liked aerosol oils like most Rem Oil offerings. It is always interesting to me what happens to the products like Rem Oil and Barricade when guns are sprayed over newspaper. After a couple days, the newspaper looks totally dry??? For storage, I prefer a heavy oil. The lighter the oil, the faster it volatilizes. My favorite is a homemade formula that has been published many times with various recipes. 1 part STP, 2 parts Mobil 1, 2 ounce bottle of M-Pro-7 work for me and you can make it by the half gallon which will last for years. I use it without mineral spirits for corrosion protection and surface application, but one can cut the mixture if desired. I have used it for 20 years and have guns stored in the safe for several years that are still well protected.

I would also recommend not using socks as they can collect moisture and hold it in the hot humid summer months. Best to use a gun safe with open storage racks, plus a heating rod and desiccant for best protection.

 

[H Richard]

I have to ask where was that wooden box located while the guns were stored in it? What was the humidity level? I have always believed in my guns stored with open airflow all around them, and I have had no rust of any kind for over 30+ years. I also advocate Renaissance Wax for long term storage.

 

[Thinnes]

Back from Walmart.... save that for another thread.. picked up some Rem oil. Great product. Used it on every gun. Really brought a couple back to life. No telling how these gb guns were mistreated. The rem oil looks like it’s reversing the process of pitting! Will keep working on the pre 10. Each gun was in a sock, inside an older piece of locking furniture. No air flow, but warm and dry. Was it the socks?
Thanks for the help guys. I was panicked. Dgt

 

[Grayfox]

The Borestores brand are treated to prevent this sort of thing. I've used them for years without any problems at all.
Are your's actually Borestores? Have they been washed? I'm curious to know?

 

[2152hq]

Might be the older funiture and the way it was finished.
Is it oak? Much of that was fumed with ammonia in the past to bring out the natural grain and darken it. Residue doesn't do well for bluing or plating.

Water soluable chemical stains like potassium permangenate for walnut and potassium di-chromate for maple were also popular. Can't help metal finishes any if moisture and constant contact in a closed box are included in the mix.
Even Iron Nitrate was used alot for maple and that starts out as nitric acid based. It rusts the steel wood screws and hardward on maple stocks if not mixed correctly.

Could also have been something mildly corrosive that had been stored in the furniture years before and the residue from the fumes or a spill still exist in the wood.

just some thoughts.

 

[THREEDFLYER]

I can tell you from experience that when I stored some very old and rare cartridges in a wooden cabinet I had some serious corrosion occur. My guess is the tannin that is off-gassing from the wood is what has caused your issues.
My suggestion is to invest in a quality gun safe and install a heat-bar that will keep the guns dry.

 

[Thinnes]

They are borestores, ordered direct from them. They haven’t been washed. Are you thinking detergent? Glad to hear they work good for you Fox.
I had Murphy’s wood soap out yesterday and cleaned grips. Is that the culprit?

 

[Genetically Swiss]

Might be the older funiture and the way it was finished.
Is it oak? Much of that was fumed with ammonia in the past to bring out the natural grain and darken it. Residue doesn't do well for bluing or plating.

Water soluable chemical stains like potassium permangenate for walnut and potassium di-chromate for maple were also popular. Can't help metal finishes any if moisture and constant contact in a closed box are included in the mix.
Even Iron Nitrate was used alot for maple and that starts out as nitric acid based. It rusts the steel wood screws and hardward on maple stocks if not mixed correctly.

That is extremely valuable information that I did not know. Thank you for that.


GS

 

[mh51]

I use RIG for long-term storage. RIG stands for rust-inhibiting grease, and it has never failed, even when I had to store stuff in a safe in the garage.

 

[caddy2507]

Lots of good information in the previous posts.
However, this I believe, is a simple problem -- moisture.

First of all, don't use Murphy Oil Soap (used with water) on your
grips. Wood absorbs water -- period. Not good. If anything, remove
them first and put a light coat of linseed oil on them if needed.

You are keeping your guns in a wood cabinet without any air circulation.
Depending on the humidity in your house and what the wood cabinet
absorbs, you have created a problem. The wood grips being soaked makes
it worse.

A safe is a closed system, not airtight but close. No wood inside except
for what's on the guns (minimal). A "Golden Rod" or similar is a heating device
that keeps air circulating and prevents condensation on the metal (gun metal).
Without moisture / condensation, rust cannot form. Blued steel kept in a moist
environment will rust.

Recommendations:

1) Buy a proper gun safe
2) Buy a goldenrod or other such device
3) Coat each firearm with Renwax or even Simonize. I use Renwax.
Even oil is better than nothing. I like wax since it does not show fingerprints
and doesn't smear if properly applied.
4) Run a patch with a light coating of oil down the bore
(and cylinder for revolvers). Don't forget to run a dry patch before use.
5) When you remove guns to admire them use cotton gloves

That's it. By the way, I was in the chemical industry for 35 years
and a chemist by trade.

 

[shouldazagged]

I've used Rem-Oil, a light coat applied with a soft rag, on guns for thirty years or so. I've never had one show a speck of rust, even on guns I haven't used for years. On those I'd re-apply it once a year if I thought of it. No rust. But also no safe.