Need Schooling.... Looking for a shooter quality Top Break

[NucSub]

Looking at Top-Break design revolvers as a fun to have gun. Enjoy old 90-100 year old gun designs and am considering a S&W to have and compliment my 37-2.
I see that there are a variety in the S&W line.
New Departure type is catching my eye based on availability and prices.
Would like opinion on .32 vs .38 keeping in mind this is a fun very occasional range toy.
Am also considering refinishing and having a little fun with it. If so, beyond mechanical condition (primary) what other considerations? Note to collectors, I have no interest in taking any pristine gun and chopping or butchering. Looking at a fun experience.
V/R, NucSub

 

[NucSub]

Looking at Top-Break design revolvers as a fun to have gun. Enjoy old 90-100 year old gun designs and am considering a S&W to have and compliment my 37-2.
I see that there are a variety in the S&W line.
New Departure type is catching my eye based on availability and prices.
Would like opinion on .32 vs .38 keeping in mind this is a fun very occasional range toy.
Am also considering refinishing and having a little fun with it. If so, beyond mechanical condition (primary) what other considerations? Note to collectors, I have no interest in taking any pristine gun and chopping or butchering. Looking at a fun experience.
V/R, NucSub

 

[dogngun]

From what I have read on this forum, the New Departures are pretty common. I bought one wihn almost no finish but in very good mechanical condition at a nearby Cabella's a few weeks ago for $150.Mine is a First Model .32. I have owned maybe 10 or so top break revolvers of different makes over the last 30 years or so, just because I enjoy them and they are still very reasonable to buy. I like to shoot them on occasion, and I'm more concerned with the mechanical condition over appearence. Check the bore for large pitted areas, although this is not a deal breaker if they are present and the gun is otherwise something you really want.
Remember that slow, heavy triggers and sticky operation is possibly old grease and dirt-a lot of problems can be cured by a thorough cleaning and use of a good solvent.
I clean them out on the patio in aluminum foil baking pans from the dollar store.\
I'm sure you will get much good advice here...seems to be a lot of top-break shooters.

Enjoy yourself.

Mark

 

[delta-419]

I have several model 1 1/2 S&W SAs spur trigger guns in 38 S&W and in 32 S&W caliber center fire. I shoot cast bullets with Hogdon Triple 7 as the powder, they are a hoot to shoot. Also have 6 or 7 in DA TB. They are accurate and are well made. Remember that the cylinders were not heat treated and they will not take a lot of pressure. Shoot only guns that have been cleared by a good gunsmith. Remember most are over a hundred years old. Happy trails!

 

[MikeyL]

You are catching the disease! I started shooting some of these older top-break guns at SASS side matches, and found the .32 S&W guns to be a hoot, and accurate to boot. We do reload, with light loads and lead bullets, and they are really fun at 7 to 10 yards. I have a nice lemon-squeezer in .38 S&W that I really like, too. Have fun!

MikeyL
SWCA #2010

 

[NucSub]

Thank you for the responses so far. Is there any advantage of .32 vs .38? I realise both are obsolete cartridges but I see both are commercially loaded. I may consider at some point reloading again. They do appear to be to much fun.

 

[ttpete]

I picked up a .38 2nd model from a friend, and although the nickel is a little rough, it locks up like a new one. The fit is so good, you actually have to use some force to open it.

 

[dogngun]

In my experience, a good .38 will be more expensive than a similar revolver in .32 simply because it is more powerful, thus more desireable.
I have owned both, and either one is great fun to shoot. I know the .38 S&W factory cartridges are way overpriced lately, and I'm pretty sure the .32's have kept pace with them.
Unless you have a strong preference, I'd look for a top break Smith in the best mechanical condition I could find, and go on from there...you don't have to stop at only one, you know, in fact I can almost guarantee you won't.

Good hunting, enjoy yourself.

Mark

 

[walnutred]

All things being equal I would look for a beak top in 32 Long over a break top in 38 S&W. You are more likely to find factory ammo for 32 Long. If you reload the 32 Long is easier to find factory bullets and good loads. I reload for both 32 Long and 38 S&W and the reason I don't mention 32 Short is that I find those little cases a pain to reload. I use 32 ACP cases in my 32 Shorts just because they are a little easier to handle.

 

[NKJ nut]

originally posted by walnutred

All things being equal I would look for a beak top in 32 Long over a break top in 38 S&W. You are more likely to find factory ammo for 32 Long. If you reload the 32 Long is easier to find factory bullets and good loads. I reload for both 32 Long and 38 S&W and the reason I don't mention 32 Short is that I find those little cases a pain to reload. I use 32 ACP cases in my 32 Shorts just because they are a little easier to handle

32 S&W Long ammo is indeed plentiful. .32 S&W Long chambered Smith and Wesson topbreak revolvers are even scarcer than hens teeth because S&W didn't make any. The .32 topbreaks were chambered for 32 S&W. What is sometimes called today 32 short. The 32 S&W Long was introduced along with the the 32 Hand Ejector model of 1896.

 

[walnutred]

Well, I guess if you are going to limit yourself to S&W breaktops...

 

[PALADIN85020]

I acquired this little .32 lemon squeezer about a year ago, and have found no problem getting .32 S&W ammo for it, although I have not shot it. It's just too nice not to be a safe queen!

 

[NKJ nut]

Paladin that one looks like it is mint. I would hate to try to find a nicer Safety Hmmerless. Thanks for showing us this little revolver.