Need some info please.

trusty4711

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I don't know much about revolvers. Can you change barrels on smith and wesson revolvers? IE 66,686,67 and k38's How do you know it's time to change them ? What's a ball park figure for smith and wesson to do it? Like I said revolvers are all new to me and any input will help. :confused:
 
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Unless you do something to damage the barrel you're not likley to need another. Probably the most common cause is shooting a squib and following up with another shot, one sure way to bulge a barrel. The K-frame S&W magnums sometimes see a problem with cracked forcing cones from hot lightweight loads. But most revolvers will outlast their owners.
 
Reason I ask is I shoot PPC and Bullseye. I wondered if they will still last or do they need to be gage?:confused:
 
PPC and NRA Bullseye is usually shot with soft, swaged or cast lead bullets at low velocities and pressures. It is really unlikely that you will ever wear the barrel of your S&W out using such ammunition. Unless you damage the barrel through a squib or some such, as Handgunner356 wrote, you won't ever wear the barrel enough to need replacement. As such, there are no "bore wear or erosion gauges" for revolvers, such as there are for rifles.
 
The armorers/gunsmiths on the Forum can explain it better, but yes, S & W revolver barrels are replaceable should the need arise. Once the old barrel is unscrewed from the frame, if you are lucky the new one threads on with the front sight lined up and the proper barrel/cylinder gap without alteration. On the last one of mine my local gunsmith worked on, a small amount of material had to be taken off the flat rear part of the barrel that rests on the front of the frame to set everything correctly. The later guns have a three-piece barrel that requires a special tool for removal, and that is all I know about this subject :) Hope this is helpful.
 
barrel

can you simply unscrew the barrel? Mine seems to be on there pretty well.
 
squib load

I have a squib in my barrel now and can't figure out how to get the bullet out. I would like to remove the barrel and tap it out, but afraid to force the barrel to turn. I do not want to damage the frame unscrewing it.

Unless you do something to damage the barrel you're not likley to need another. Probably the most common cause is shooting a squib and following up with another shot, one sure way to bulge a barrel. The K-frame S&W magnums sometimes see a problem with cracked forcing cones from hot lightweight loads. But most revolvers will outlast their owners.
 
If the squib is far enough in for you to remove the cylinder, do so. Then plug the the front of the barrel. Pour some Kroil or any good penetraing oil in the open end. Place the revolver so it is veritcal and resting on the muzzle. Leave it set for a couple of days then try to tap it out with a fitted dowel and plastic/nylon/rawhide mallet. I recommend against using brass or steel heads. Might take a couple of applications, but, it will come out.

If the squib is in between the cylinder and barrel and you can't get the cylinder out of the frame, you will need a very thin and sharp chisel along with a lot of patience.

Another method is to place it in the freezer for a few hours and then try tapping it out.

At one time or another I've used all of the above on Colt's, Ruger's and S&W.
 
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