Need Trigger Shoe?

[AJ]

Gentlemen, I have either a 14 or a 15 that was converted to a PPC revolver in the past. The trigger is my problem. It was drilled for an over-travel screw. I took it out as it rubbed on my finger. Now the hole is an irritation to me. Was thinking that a trigger shoe may help. Do not want to replace the trigger with a new one that may cause a change in the pull weight. Thoughts for the forum members are welcome.

AJ

 

[DocB]

The shoes are not advisable because they can create a trigger that is so wide it will catch on things and fire the gun. This is what everybody tells me anyway. I've had a few removed lately and thrown away. I just replaced/swapped out a few triggers on my M14's. In the process, I didn't see much about the trigger itself that would effect its pull. All of tension seems to be in the mainspring and in that spring-loaded part that rides under the hammer and behind the trigger. I didn't see much of anything about the triggers themselves that would create a pull difference. I would just locate a new trigger and pop it in. I should mention that if you don't have the "tool" you are going to have a bunch of fun replacing the trigger. It comes with most good screwdriver sets.

 

[gwpercle]

Back in the 60's trigger shoes were regularly installed on S&W revolvers. My model 64 still wears one. They came grooved or smooth and gave you that target width trigger.
I have them on K and N frame revolvers, I never put one on my J-frames.
My model 58 N frame and 64 K-frame spent most of their lives in duty holsters. The shoes are much less wider than the trigger guards and have never snagged on anything or fired themselves...I don't see a problem with a shoe of suitable width. Probably the easiest way to solve your problem.
It was the easiest way to get a target trigger in the 60's and 70's and still not a bad idea . Tyler still makes them and they come in different widths....just order the narrowest one for your trigger width , you shouldn't have any problems.
I installed them on my model 64 and model 58 in the the early 70's and they are still in place and I still shoot with them regularly.

Gary

 

[AJ]

Not real concerned about the width of the trigger shoe. Will only shoot the revolver at the range punching paper. Never in a holster, just in a Pachmeyr Shooting Box. Just looking to keep the finger tip from being rubbed raw by the hole from the over travel screw hole.

 

[Muss Muggins]

The knock on shoes back in the day was that the retaining screws would loosen after time. The shoe would slide down the trigger without coming off and block the trigger from being pulled rearward. With some regular attention, there's nothing inherently wrong with a trigger shoe, but the user should be mindful of the above. I've never heard of a trigger shoe hooking on something and causing the negligent discharge of a double action revolver, although that doesn't mean somebody hasn't claimed it to be true. I've never found a reason to use them . . .

 

[Hondo44]

A trigger shoe on a nice S&W is like putting a fox tail on your new Cadillac's antenna, if it had one.

I'd put the screw back in the hole in the trigger and Loctite it. Then finish flush on the back and use a checkering cutter to cut grooves in the front surface to match the trigger grooves. You won't feel it any longer.

Good video for disassembly:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqmlI3FBvLE[/ame]

I don't use the special tool but it sure makes it easier.

 

[AJ]

A trigger shoe on a nice S&W is like putting a fox tail on your new Cadillac's antenna, if it had one.

I'd put the screw back in the hole in the trigger and Loctite it. Then finish flush on the back and use a checkering cutter to cut grooves in the front surface to match the trigger grooves. You won't feel it any longer.

Good video for disassembly:
S&W Model 10 Disassembly and Assembly - YouTube

I don't use the special tool but it sure makes it easier.

Have thought about that, but the trigger is smooth. Would require filing the screw flush. Was trying the easy way first.

 

[H Richard]

A dab of epoxy, or any of the fillers in the hole and polished off smooth should solve your problem, maybe a 10 minute job.

 

[AJ]

A dab of epoxy, or any of the fillers in the hole and polished off smooth should solve your problem, maybe a 10 minute job.

Thanks, hadn't thought of that. Have some quick dry J-B Weld that will do the trick.