New 340 M&P Back to S&W

Old cop

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I picked up my new 340 M&P two weeks ago and have run about 300 rounds down range, eveything from .38 range ammo to mid range .357, no problems. When cleaning I discovered that the cylinder would come off the yoke right past the frame if I was not careful to stop it. This has resulted in a deep scratch in the left side of the frame where the cylinder is supposed to stop.

Back it went to the LGS where I made the purchase. They tried to tighten the sideplate screw that holds the cylinder into the frame, but it was plenty tight. The LGS is sending the gun back to S&W, a big dissapointment. BTW, I've established a good relationship w/the LGS giving them all my business and they take good care of me, really good people.

This is a bit of a rant, but the point here is the lack of QC. This is a product that retails at over $700 and I'm beginning to wonder of S&W is resting on their reputation. Their customer service is reputed to be the best, I guess I'll find out.
 
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That's a real bummer, Old Cop. I'm pretty sure I was one of the people who recommended you get the M&P 340. Please keep us posted as to the resolution.
 
Be prepared for a months wait. Ask me how I know.. They will replace the frame,but eventually it will do the same thing again. Never try to clean the cylinder while it is in the gun. Always remove it from the gun, by taking out the yoke screw.
 
Uh oh?

Are you guys saying these little, light, beautiful,and accurate revolvers have a fatal flaw??I am thinking about getting one and do not need to be wearing out the FedEx folks (or my wallet) like this thing is aTaurus. What is up with this deaL=frame flex or what?

Disturbed shopper......


pS-I had the 360 ? I think , the one with the scandium cylinder you couldn't shoot any light bullets through. seemed to work OK -wish I had it back.
 
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Hope S&W makes it right. Please let us know.

This past week I decided to inspect a new 686 with the intention of buying it despite the lock and mim. Unaided visual inspection easily revealed a canted barrel. 3 strikes ... it was out.
 
Are you guys saying these little, light, beautiful,and accurate revolvers have a fatal flaw??

I doubt they're claiming that, but if anyone is, they're wrong.

My M&P 340 (my second one) has thousands of rounds through it and has neither this particular problem nor any other and I'm not alone.

I see this phenomenon on the Internet all the time and it happens in every interest whether it be cars, motorcycles, firearms, or widgets. As little as two or a handful of people complain about the same problem and this automatically equates to a "lack of quality control" and a full-blown pandemic. WRONG! It's simply the skewed, myopic view of things we see when on the Internet forums combined with the natural inclination of people to (rightfully) complain when there's a problem and remain silent when there isn't. How many posts do you read where the person says, "I just wanted to say that I've had no problems with my _________ (fill in the blank). Thanks for listening"?

If you take a step back and look at the "big picture," you'll realize the vast majority of the problems we see with certain S&W models represent a very small percentage of the number manufactured and sold.
 
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To Allglock: I've never removed the cylinder when cleaning any of my revolvers in 40+ years of shooting. Is your suggestion limited to these scandium frame models? I did own the M&P 360 and never had problems w/it (hindsight?).

To Everyone Else: Thanks for your input and I will post an update when it comes back. I did "research" this model before making a purchase and did not find anything to disuade me from buying, and I realize how the Internet can skew things so I take that into account as well. For the time being I carry my Colt Cobra, circa '68 (first off-duty gun), and await S&W's response.
 
Be prepared for a months wait. Ask me how I know.. They will replace the frame,but eventually it will do the same thing again. Never try to clean the cylinder while it is in the gun. Always remove it from the gun, by taking out the yoke screw.

I have been shooting and cleaning S&W revolvers for 20 plus years and I have never heard that the cylinder should be removed before cleaning.

I have a M&P 340 the cylinder did come off the yoke when I was putting on new grips that could be used with a speed loader. I guess I was lucky it didn't mess anything up. I slid it back on without any scratches.
 
If its not steel, remove it before cleaning!
Also the pre magnum frames with the old cyl. stop you could get away with it. But the new frames, only contact about .003.... its not worth screwing it up.
The older guns with the old style cyl. stop, had wider cylinders with more contact, and thus would not have this problem.
Also when shooting that many rounds , you should take the cylinder off anyway just to clean out the carbon in/on the yoke!
I have shot as few as 5 rounds and found much carbon on the yoke! ...JMO
 
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After reading this I went up and got my M&P340. Tried for about 5 minutes to get it to slide off but it ain't gonna happen. Maybe I could drive it off. Wonder why the difference?
 
I have never heard that the cylinder should be removed before cleaning.

I used to remove the cylinder when cleaning my S&Ws because I find it easier to clean the cylinders that way. And with Smiths, unlike Rugers, the cylinder is easy and quick to remove. However, I just watched "Trigger Job" by Jerry Miculek, and he has an interesting comment about the screws in the side plate as well as the screw securing the cylinder yolk to the frame. He says, "it's like anything else. the more you use it (the screws and the tapped holes), the sooner it's gone wear out."

He does not specifically address removing or not removing the cylinder when cleaning the gun, but he cautions that the screws should be pretty much left alone... the inference is that the cylinder should not be removed each time the gun is cleaned. He does say, as far as the side plate screws go, that one should "never take a side plate off except to do a major repair."

Just thought you might like to hear the words of a master shooter and gunsmith... but you'll have to draw your own conclusions.
 
I used to remove the cylinder when cleaning my S&Ws because I find it easier to clean the cylinders that way. And with Smiths, unlike Rugers, the cylinder is easy and quick to remove. However, I just watched "Trigger Job" by Jerry Miculek, and he has an interesting comment about the screws in the side plate as well as the screw securing the cylinder yolk to the frame. He says, "it's like anything else. the more you use it (the screws and the tapped holes), the sooner it's gone wear out."

He does not specifically address removing or not removing the cylinder when cleaning the gun, but he cautions that the screws should be pretty much left alone... the inference is that the cylinder should not be removed each time the gun is cleaned. He does say, as far as the side plate screws go, that one should "never take a side plate off except to do a major repair."

Just thought you might like to hear the words of a master shooter and gunsmith... but you'll have to draw your own conclusions.

I wonder why he would never want to clean out the carbon from the yoke?
 
After reading this I went up and got my M&P340. Tried for about 5 minutes to get it to slide off but it ain't gonna happen. Maybe I could drive it off. Wonder why the difference?

Try tilting the cyl. a bit.. it should go right over the cyl. stop.
Thats what happens when you aggressively clean the cylinder.
 
OldCop,

Sorry to hear about your gun problem. Hopefully S&W will take care of you soon. I can relate. I bought a NIB 627PC last year,$1000, and it broke within a week or so(hammer/firing pin). S&W fixed it within one week and zero cost to me. I know stuff happens but their customer service is top notch. Keep us posted.

Rikman
 
I'm a bit confused. The sideplate screw simply holds the yoke in place. If the yoke is coming out of the frame when the cylinder is in the open position, there is metal missing on the inside, a crack, or the screw is damaged. Nothing complex here, just basic mechanics.

Now, if the cylinder is coming off the yoke, I don't see what the sideplate screw has to do with this.

Either way, my M&P360 doesn't exhibit any of these issues and I am wondering if you can clarify what they issue is because I am confused.
 
When he was cleaning his 340, I am guessing with a chamber brush.. The cylinder popped over the slide stop protrusion, and must have scratched the outside of thr protrusion.
I have owned an M&P 340 and 340 PD that did this just by reloading with a speed loader.
 
Austerity: To clarify the sideplate screw is tight. When the cylinder is open all the way it does not come out. Move it up toward the frame about 1/16" as if to close it, push back toward the grips, and off it comes. I tried this with my 442 and it stays in place, as does my pre Model 10 (circa '58), my Model 63 and the old Colt Cobra.

I've purchased four new guns in the past 24 months. A Springfield 1911 that had to go back twice to make it right, a Rugrer LCP that was so bad that after two returns they (Ruger) replaced the gun, a Smith Model 63 w/a barrel out of spec, and now the M&P 340. Realizing that my view is not global this still seems unusual and makes me not want to buy another new gun regardless. While customer service was top notch in each instance, I'd rather get a gun that works right out of the box. My plans to buy a S&W M&P .22 are on hold.

Given my admittedly limited experience I can only conclude that QC has slipped across the board and that the emphasis is now on CS as opposed to putting out good quality the first time out. To put it mildly I am pretty disgusted.
 
Old cop,

I hate to be the one to bring up this possibility since I'm an old, retired cop myself, but it may be that you're just terribly unlucky when it comes to purchasing new handguns. ;)
 
Old cop,

I hate to be the one to bring up this possibility since I'm an old, retired cop myself, but it may be that you're just terribly unlucky when it comes to purchasing new handguns. ;)

I guess I must be also...;)
 

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