new .45

ronaldharold

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I recentely purchased a new .45. It is a 108284 model. I have a couple questions. When I grip the pistol sometimes im not pushing on the grip safety enough and the safety stays on when i pull the trigger.I did some research and discovered some people drill a small hole in the safety and the frame I guess and ''pin'' it back. Is there any other way to achieve the same results on this model without drilling or damageing the appearance of this fine firearm? Also what series is this pistol- pro, champion or what? Thanks for any replies
 
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I remove the grips, tape it down with one wrap of 3M strapping tape, replace the grips and it's done. Remove the tape and it's undone.
This is for a 1911 target gun that I shoot NRA three gun bullseye matches with. I would never carry it afield like this.
I have always had a problem depressing the grip safety with the way I grip the pistol, maybe my palm is not fleshy enough, but the tape works, is cheap and is easily removed.
Gary
 
ronaldharold, I have handled and shot many styles of 1911 style pistols, (which you have) since the early sixties. My standard, long practiced grip, when used on a S&W 1911,(#108287) while fine for ALL others , sometimes does not get the GS depressed enough to release the trigger.

I expect you know the reason for this is the method S&W uses to activate the firing pin block safety feature, which is with the grip safety.
I guess S&W wants to make sure you can not push the GS in, without a concentrated effort, enough to fire without being ready..... Kimber also uses this method, while Colt and others that use a FP blocker, are activated with the trigger.
Colt and their clones call it "series 80" type, and those without a firing pin blocker, refer to them as "pre-80s, or 70 series".

I personally solved the grip safety situation on the S&W, by changing my hand grip to make it work.
I just would not de-activate a safety feature on a firearm. Certainly not by a permanent change like drilled holes....... I won't get into that whole boogaboo about shooting someone with a "modified assault weapon", but the possibility of someone getting hurt is always there with a firearm.
I would look into an aftermarket grip safety with a more defined "memory bump", or even add some form of material to the existing one. Maybe a nicely shaped piece of closed cell foam, if you see no way to get comfortable with changing your grip.

For me, (right handed) the ambi thumb safety is far and away more of an intrusion on my grip.

Your 108284 was introduced in the 2005-06 time frame, still made today I believe, and remains a fine 1911. S&W implies all their 1911s go through the "custom shop" now, but I believe a "Pro-Shop" 1911 will be a signature Doug Koenig model, and, here of late, some talk of their revolver guy, Jerry Miculek being added to the line.

Nice pistol Ronald. I didn't start off to write but three sentences,but the idea of drilling on your Smith made me squirm.
 
Don't

I too am against disabling this safety feature. I have an S&W 1911 and I've never once had an issue with the grip safety. As long as I grip the gun correctly, the safety disengages.

As your hand is different than mine, perhaps a different grip safety which protrudes a bit more?
 
ON THE SEAR SPRING. THERE IS NORMALLY A 3 LEG SPRING. LEFT SIDE AND CENTER LEAF PUSH FORWARD AGAINST THE TRIGGER BOW AND THE SEAR. RIGHT SIDE LEAF PUSHES TO THE REAR AGAINST THE GRIP SAFETY. YOU CAN ADJUST THE FORCE REQUIRED TO DISENGAGE THE GRIP SAFETY BY BENDING THE RIGHT SIDE LEAF FORWARD. BUT IT IS A TRIAL AND ERROR METHOD. JIM P
 
Do some dry fire practice and pay attention the pressure you exert with your ring finger. You may notice that you can engage or disengage the grip safety by varying the pressure. While you're at it experiment with where your trigger finger lands on the trigger and which position gives you the best straight back press.
 
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