New 625 JM forcing cone pics

Fla_Sun

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Just picked this up yesterday. The B/C gap is .006 on left side and .003 on right side with noticable endshake. Only been fired at factory. I thought that there was too much copper in the bore when cleaning. Guess it goes back for repair now, not sure I even want to shoot it this way.
 

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Sent it to S&W, got it back in 11 days, not bad!
 
Happy with the rapid turn around but after inspection...
S&W said they recut the forcing cone but it is the biggest hack job I've ever seen. Worse than before. I will have a professional do this correctly.
The endshake was supposedly a repaired yoke. Endshake is back after shooting some light target rounds.
The BC gap no adjustment necessary and was better after getting it back but after one shooting session with light target loads it has deteriorated.
Was expecting better than this.
 
i would call S&W again and send it back in again. Make them fix it right. If they can not fix it right then they should replace it. Just my 2 cents.


Happy with the rapid turn around but after inspection...
S&W said they recut the forcing cone but it is the biggest hack job I've ever seen. Worse than before. I will have a professional do this correctly.
The endshake was supposedly a repaired yoke. Endshake is back after shooting some light target rounds.
The BC gap no adjustment necessary and was better after getting it back but after one shooting session with light target loads it has deteriorated.
Was expecting better than this.
 
Send it back. Make S&W do it right. You didn't buy an RG 10.
 
after pic

I had it cut correctly by someone else.
 

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When I got my 625JM it had the worst forcing cone I had ever seen. It looked like it was cut with a pen knife. Fortunately, it cleaned up nicely with the Brownell's forcing cone cutter I have used a few times on other guns with bad forcing cones. Now it shoots great. The forcing cone on my 625PC was fine.
 
I haven't had the chance to shoot it since I had it cut. The one time I shot it with the factory hack job I was not impressed. At 21 feet it grouped like I normally shoot at 25 yards.
 
Gee Sun,

I don't know why S&W didn't fix it right the first time. This is a Performance Center gun which you paid extra for. Ostensibily that means it should have been inspected and tuned by the experts. What are we paying extra for, the "Performance Center" inscription on the side?
 
Did they send this one to Taurus for repairs or something?
Now that's funny.

I can see a bad gun getting through (shouldn't happen but it does) but I can't see having it returned and then sending it back out still messed up.
I had it cut correctly by someone else.

Now Ladies and Gentlemen you now know the reason I will not buy a new S&W product. If it ain't a P & R model I don't want it.
 
I don't know why S&W didn't fix it right the first time. This is a Performance Center gun which you paid extra for. Ostensibily that means it should have been inspected and tuned by the experts. What are we paying extra for, the "Performance Center" inscription on the side?

It's not really a PC gun, it is what they call a Pro, somewhere between production and PC...
Completing the line between main production and the Performance Center, the Smith & Wesson Pro Series represents the next step from standard models. These firearms are offered with a variety of enhancements yet still remain true to "stock." Bringing competition specifications and features to factory models, the Pro Series offer that ready-to-go package while still maintaining production line integrity.



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My JM Special (4") and my 625-6 Model of 1989 are both extremely well made revolvers by any standard.

Maybe it's the luck of the draw.

By the way, just because they were made a few years ago does NOT make them superior. I have had several 1980's Smiths that were "less than perfect". In fact, back in the sixties a friend had a brand new Model 60 that wouldn't even allow the cylinder to be closed on factory loads. It was headspaced too tightly for cartridges (factory). He sent it back and they replaced the cylinder but stated they found nothing wrong with it (he had marked the old cylinder).

Frankly, I really like my modern Smith's as well as my older models.

Dale53
 
My JM Special (4") and my 625-6 Model of 1989 are both extremely well made revolvers by any standard.

Maybe it's the luck of the draw.

By the way, just because they were made a few years ago does NOT make them superior. I have had several 1980's Smiths that were "less than perfect". In fact, back in the sixties a friend had a brand new Model 60 that wouldn't even allow the cylinder to be closed on factory loads. It was headspaced too tightly for cartridges (factory). He sent it back and they replaced the cylinder but stated they found nothing wrong with it (he had marked the old cylinder).

Frankly, I really like my modern Smith's as well as my older models.

Dale53

Times 2 for me... I just sent 2 1970's guns back for work, they failed.. head space too tight on one and the ejecter rod backed out on the other..
 
Times 2 for me... I just sent 2 1970's guns back for work, they failed.. head space too tight on one and the ejecter rod backed out on the other..

I guess they go tired of making things too tight so now they make them too loose??? :rolleyes:
 
I sent my personal .22 Combat Masterpiece in a number of years ago to have an excessive BC gap fixed. Guess I was too busy to do it myself and the short barrels are a pain to set up in the lathe to set back. When I got it back, the BC gap was .002 0n one side and .006 on the other. S&W factory procedures supposedly use hand filing to set BC gap rather than using a piloted tool like Brownells sells. It is very easy to file things out of square. The forcing cone looked kinda like a drunk beaver had gnawed on it. I finally got it where it's right. I may yet change out the barrel since I managed to aquire a correct spare somewhere over the interim. If I do, I will do it myself this time.
 
Been thinking. Is there a way one could polish the forcing cone on the barrel of the revolver? As I understand it you either get a standard forcing cone from S&W or get the brownells kit and alter it that way. I say this because in looking a few bbls the machine marks are circular from the reaming process. Dremel does sell polishing wheels, and they have polish impregnated wheels also. So was thinking again that one could make up a flexable rubber coated thing like a snake and attach the buffing wheel or cone point and attempt to polish the first 1/2" or so of the forcing cone on the bbl. Note the word here is polish. Stupid idea or maybe something worth trying. In my limited experience most leading starts just at the front of the forcing cone. Would a highly polished forcing cone decrease leading at that point. Frank
 
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