Today I brought home a new model 29-10. When wiping off the goo that it came slathered with, the cotton patch I was using turned a dark brown rust color as if it were removing surface flash rust. I used no oil and no chemicals. The finish appears to be more black than blue. Can anyone shed some light on what type of finish they are using now. It just doesn't look like bluing to me. Or maybe it just needs cleaned up.
New finish on S&W revolvers
- Thread starter tmongenas
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Rpg
Member
The blue finish Smith has been using for quite a while now isn't the bluing Smith used for years. I'm not sure what it is, but it seems more fragile and less stable.
It seems much less desirable than the older bluing.
The new stuff seems more like paint than the older bluing. I'm not interested in guns with the new finish.
This has been discussed here before and at length here. A search will provide more information.
It seems much less desirable than the older bluing.
The new stuff seems more like paint than the older bluing. I'm not interested in guns with the new finish.
This has been discussed here before and at length here. A search will provide more information.
Pretty sure the stuff you wiped off is just the preservative oil applied before shipping. You're right about the finish underneath,
it's just not the same as the vintage blue from decades ago. I'm sure whatever they have in the bluing tank nowadays is more environmentally friendly, but still...
it's just not the same as the vintage blue from decades ago. I'm sure whatever they have in the bluing tank nowadays is more environmentally friendly, but still...
As others mentioned it is oil, took several wipe downs to clean off new 586 I had couple years ago .
The preservative does have a brown tint, so don't worry. S&W changed their blueing process, actually a black oxide process, somewhere around 2000. This new process is EPA friendly, but produces a very black finish that does not hold up well to solvents that contain ammonia or ammoniated compounds. Ammonia can turn the black finish purple.
Fishinfool
Member
S&W could offer a good hot blue if they wanted to. Other manufacturers do it. But, it would cost more. As long as the average consumer is happy with a sub-standard finish, then things are good to go.
I purchased a new 4 inch 29-10 about a year ago. There were several modern, "blued" S&W's in the case, and all displayed a "splotchy" finish, to a degree. The 29-10 looked OK at the time. However, when viewed under sunlight, several areas with a dull grey area under the "blueing" were evident. They did not rub out.
I purchased this revolver to give a break to my 29-2's from field use, given their increasing values. A gun I didn't have to worry about scratching up. So I will use it as is (It is very accurate with a smooth action), but I feel the finish is not up to what a 27 or 29 should be.
larry
I purchased a new 4 inch 29-10 about a year ago. There were several modern, "blued" S&W's in the case, and all displayed a "splotchy" finish, to a degree. The 29-10 looked OK at the time. However, when viewed under sunlight, several areas with a dull grey area under the "blueing" were evident. They did not rub out.
I purchased this revolver to give a break to my 29-2's from field use, given their increasing values. A gun I didn't have to worry about scratching up. So I will use it as is (It is very accurate with a smooth action), but I feel the finish is not up to what a 27 or 29 should be.
larry
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2021
- Messages
- 272
- Reaction score
- 899
I have two "Classic" models, a 27-9 from 2012 and a 36-10 from 2015. I agree with all that's been said above. Your revolver may develop a cloudiness on the frame and sideplate, but a very light and gently applied treatment of Flitz polish will work wonders. Below are recent photos of these heavily shot revolvers. After the initial issues, the finish does seem to stabilize. But I agree, the older finishes are nicer.
Attachments
The best bluing, Carbonia, ended in 1980. The Carbonia blue is a true blue and was durable. On polished revolvers, it looked deep and lustrous. Not quite Colt Python nice, but nicer than the 1980-2000 finish and a lot nicer than the current finish.
smithra_66
Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2020
- Messages
- 1,307
- Reaction score
- 2,140
It's definitely not like the old bluing. It's probably some "EPA regulated" stuff that is as good as they can do today in a mass production environment.
I think in modern times so many guns are just flat black now. People don't apprecicate high polished blue like they used to, so it's less of an emphasis now.
That's why I usually buy old S&Ws, not the new ones. No key hole either!
BillBro
Member
So Flitz doesn't alter or damage or remove any of the bluing then? Obviously it has to be rubbed on and off and I always thought Flitz was a very fine abrasive.
Anyone ever used it in an older Smith?
Anyone ever used it in an older Smith?
bananaman
Member
I would be VERY cautious with Flitz on a blued finish, new or old. Try it on an inconspicuous spot first, under a grip panel etc. before going at the rest of the gun. Once the finish is gone it ain't coming back. It might be my foggy memory but I thought Flitz came out with a reformulated product a few years ago that was supposed to be safe on bluing. Anyone else know about that?
A product I have used successfully on blued finishes is Birchwood Casey Kleen-Brite polish. It's advertised as safe for use on factory blued finishes and I've found that to be the case. It leaves a orange - brown sort of rusty color on the polishing cloth, not sure if it works using a super-fine abrasive or chemical action but it does work. I haven't used it for a few years after discovering Ren-Wax so I don't know if it's still available or not. Worth a try if you can find it. I just cleaned up a slightly "cloudy" finish on a 1991 model 29 Classic and it definitely made a difference with no bluing loss.
A product I have used successfully on blued finishes is Birchwood Casey Kleen-Brite polish. It's advertised as safe for use on factory blued finishes and I've found that to be the case. It leaves a orange - brown sort of rusty color on the polishing cloth, not sure if it works using a super-fine abrasive or chemical action but it does work. I haven't used it for a few years after discovering Ren-Wax so I don't know if it's still available or not. Worth a try if you can find it. I just cleaned up a slightly "cloudy" finish on a 1991 model 29 Classic and it definitely made a difference with no bluing loss.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2021
- Messages
- 272
- Reaction score
- 899
Flitz polish instructions claim it's safe on factory/hot blued finishes, but it is a polish and does have some abrasive elements. So using it on a blued finish should be done only rarely and with care not to over do it. The two revolvers shown in post #10 I've polished with Flitz exactly once each in all the years I've owned them. Since doing so, I've been able to maintain the finishes with regular cleaning and Renaissance wax.
LittleCooner
Member
Flitz is an abrasive. I have used it on some of my older blued guns, Only once. I use my finger tip and what I do is a very light polish in a small area, working over the complete gun and then two coats of Ren Wax. Makes these old guns look new. I would only use the Flitz once and then get the Ren Wax on top for preservation of the polished look.
Flitz is a mild abrasive and when it removes hazy blueing, it is removing the oxidized layer of the finish. Be careful with polishing blued finishes, you can end up removing the finish or creating thin spots in the finish.
lrb1200
Member
A lot of voiced opinions in this thread.
All of which share making excuses for S&W
marketing what can't even be called 'blue'
All of which share making excuses for S&W
marketing what can't even be called 'blue'
SnidelyWhiplash
Member
Most gunmakers have changed their bluing methods over time...not always for the better. It could be driven by costs or possibly by EPA requirements.
Whatever the reasons are...change is constant.
Whatever the reasons are...change is constant.
