New gun trigger issues

WR Moore

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I've noticed a lot of threads/posts where folks are complaining about the triggers on their new guns. Let me make a few comments.

First: the real need is for the trigger to move smoothly. Weight is a secondary issue, especially for a defensive firearm. If you have ANY possibility of using the gun for defense, the trigger has to be within factory specs. Plus, when the adrenalin dump hits, you're going to lose some sense of touch and your strength will go up. This isn't a situation where you want a really light trigger. If you want to shoot itty bitty groups, buy a .22 target pistol.

New mechanical gadgets all (maybe not if you paid $X000) have minor burrs or mold flash on the parts. These will make the trigger travel gritty. There's two ways to deal with this, both will remove the burrs. One is to have the burrs removed by trigger work done by someone who knows what they're doing. The other is to simply shoot and/or dry fire the gun. This generally takes care of the problem.

Back in 2006 we adopted the M&P40 (1.0) as a service pistol. The triggers all had some issues with smooth travel. By the end of transition training, all was well.
 
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I agree. With a new pistol or revolver, the trigger action usually smooths out a good bit with use. A light pull is less important than a crisp, precise pull. A light pull can actually be dangerous on a firearm that is intended for use under highly stressful conditions.
 
My worst trigger WAS a well experienced 39-2. I shot my Crony sky screens rods a few times. Even worse in double action first shot. After 2,000 rounds, I still could not shoot it well. Shield 45 was much easier to learn
 
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