New guy questions

EMT Edu

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I'm new to reloading and have several questions.

1) I'm loading .45 acp with a Lee die set. Per the Lee paperwork, the recommended powder charge (Unique) for 230 gr jacketed bullets starts at 6.0 but says never exceed 6.0. I assume a typo, but not sure which is incorrect?

2) Also, for 200 gr jacketed bullet the powder charge is 6.7 and never exceed 7.1. Why so much more powder for a lighter bullet?

3) I picked up some Hornady 200 gr HP/XTP. What is XTP and does it change any of the loading specs?

Thanks for any assistance.

Terry
 
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Grab yourself a good reloading manual at your local gunshop, it will answer all. Read it carefully before loading any ammo!
 
There is a post entitled "What is Needed" by A1racer down about two or three posts. I suggest you go read that as lots of new reloading questions are answered there.

This might be of interest and helpful:

Bullet Acronyms

BBWC Bevel Base Wadcutter
BT Boat Tail, but when discussing handguns can be Black Talon
BTHP Boat Tail Hollow Point
FMJ Full Metal Jacket
FP Flat Point
GD Gold Dot HP (Speer)
GS Golden Saber
HP (Remington) HP Hollow Point
HBWC Hollow Base Wadcutter
HS Hydra Shok HP (Federal)
J Jacketed
JFP Jacketed Flat Point
JHC Jacketed Hollow Cavity, Sierra jacketed hollow point
JHP Jacketed Hollow Point Keith Keith designed LSWC
L Lead LBT Lead Bullet Technology
LFN Long Flat Nose (LBT design)
LFP Lead Flat Point
LRN Lead Round Nose
LSWC Lead Semi-Wadcutter
LSWC-GC Lead Semi-Wadcutter Gas Checked
LWC Lead WadCutter
LTC Lead Truncated Cone
RN Round Nose
RNFP Round Nose Flat Point
SJ Semi Jacketed
SJHP Semi Jacketed Hollow Point
SP Soft Point
ST Silver Tip HP (Winchester)
SWC Semi Wadcutter
TC Truncated Cone
TMJ Total Metal Jacket
WC WadCutter
WLN Wide Long Nose (LBT design)
XTP Extreme Terminal Performance, Hornady jackated hollow point

Good Luck,
Bill H
 
1st - 6.0grs of Unique is usually the maximum load for 230gr jacketed bullets in the .45 acp. Many manuals only list maximum loads, reloaders are supposed to read the statement about reducing this load by 10% and working up. They think people should be able to do the math if they're smart enought to reload. Other manuals make no such assumtion so they list a start load which is almost always 10% below their max. A start load for Unique with a 230gr FMJ should be 5.4grs.

2nd - Lighter bullets can use more powder as the pressure in the chamber is less per load as the bullet gets lighter. Lighter bullets are pushed out easier and quicker making the pressure release faster so more powder can be used to develop higher velociies.

3rd - XTP = eXtreem Terminal Performance. As with any bullet the best data is from its manufacturer. Work up your load using JHP data don't just use a max load to start.
 
i got a lot of help in my tread a few down from this one. also i picked up the second edition modern reloading book. from Richard lee it was very interesting to read it and very helpful. i would pick up a book and read it a few times. it helped me a lot on the basics about pressure. and fast powder versus slower powder and when to use them. and i watched some you-tube videos on loading rounds not all where helpful but some where.
 
I recently picked up Hornady's "Handbook of Cartridge Reloading. 7th Edition" and while I know a lot of guys have multiple books to cross reference, I feel it gives me a lot of valuable info to start. The main reason I got this book is because I'm going to get a Hornady LNL AP and right now they're running a deal for free bullets with certain purchases. I figure if I'm using their press and bullets might as well find out what they suggest for those components.
 
Thanks everyone for the feedback. I have a Speers Reloading Manual from my brother, just never thought to look at it. Resourse was right here in the drawer.

Thanks again.

Terry
 
Lyman has a good Pistol and Revolver reloading manual, it’s really an instruction manual but has a lot of loads as well.
Read widely and get a DVD if you like that format better.
If you post a request, you may find someone from the forum who you could get together with, and look over your shoulder for a few rounds.

A lot of us here have been handloading long enough to make most of the mistakes one or more times, help is available.
 
Thanks oldRoger, my brother has been my mentor so far, he's been reloading for some time. In fact he sold me all his hand-me-downs as he's starting to reload rifle cartridges for resale and wanted bigger and better stuff. I just was kind of stumped by what I was seeing. I had bought and reloaded 9mm some (1500 rnds or so) and have just bought a nearly new SW1911, so am learning some new variables for .45 acp. I thought I had bought 230 gr bullets yesterday, but found when I got home they were 200 gr instead. Just a little different than I was used to so wanted to be sure I was going ahead the right way. Thanks for the response.
 
Lee also has good online videos on how to use their equipment. I forget the address but the name of the company is Lee Precision. Google that and go from there.
 
You can also Google most powder and bullet manufacturers sites, most of them have reloading guides. There is also a few reloading pages that are independent, some user entered and some that just give you published info. If you bump into these sites, stick to the data that is published, until you have more experience. Some data posted on the user entered pages is way too hot, and over max published data, and should only be "worked up" to by a reloader that KNOWS what he is lookin for.
 
The 200gr .45acp is probably the most used bullet weight for the caliber. I think the 200gr Lead SWC .45acp bullets of various shapes both long and short nose are the most popular bullet of any calibers for most commercial casters.

So you do not have an Orphan, but actually the hot spot.

When you decide on a powder, post your proposed load, we will be more than happy to “yes, but” you.

It may be counter-intuitive, but yes as you noticed, heavier bullets will have a lower maximum load of the same powder.
Example: .45acp using VV 340 all max. published loads;
185gr tmj 7.7 grs for 1082fps,
200gr-tmj 6.8 grs for 986fps,
230gr-tmj 6.4 grs for 912fps.

Now to complicate this picture the 200gr LSWC is 6.6 grs for 1039 fps. Isn’t that interesting?
The lead seals tighter but has lower friction, still the pressures nets out higher.

It’s a very good load by the way (200gr LSWC/VV 340 @ 6..6grs) I use it often.
 
Is there an advantage or disadvantage to using lead v clad bullets? I've bought clad so far because the "store bought" ammo is clad. I've seen the lead bullets in the store and they are usually cheaper.
 
Is there an advantage or disadvantage to using lead v clad bullets? I've bought clad so far because the "store bought" ammo is clad.

By "clad" do you mean JACKETED? You need to be more precise, because JACKETED means the bullet has a lead core in a sheath of copper or copper alloy tubing.

Note that there are also PLATED and "copperized" bullets. The former have a thin layer of copper deposited as the bullets are in a charged bath, as with any form of plating.

"Copperized" bullets have a dusting of copper applied as the bullets are rolled in the powder, which clings to a waxy coat on the bullet.

Finally, there is my choice for general work: Poly-coated bullets. Note: "POLY," as in "polymer," not "moly" as in molybedenum. Poly-coated bullets are far cleaner than plain lead; no wax residue, no wax smoke, and jacketed cleanliness at almost-lead prices.

So - that's Projectile Coatings 101.

Good luck and load - and shoot - safely.
 
Thanks Amici, yes I mean jacketed. Thanks for the advise, I'll try to find some "poly" coated bullets and give them a try. Saving a few dollars is a good thing and maybe I'll learn something too.
 
I like the poly-coated, don’t mind the moly coated, but mostly shoot lead.
In the .45acp a lot of lead is shot. It is cheaper, your barrel lasts forever, lead handling is not a big problem. Actually it’s much cheaper.
If you cast your own, as many do here, it gets to be really cheap.
The afore-mentioned 200gr LSWC runs $68/1000 commercially cast. With powder and primer you can shoot for about 10-11 cents a round.
You can cast your own dependent on how you find your lead for about $.02/bullet. Capital costs maybe a couple of hundred.
Its a wonderful thing is handloading.
 
Thanks Amici, yes I mean jacketed. Thanks for the advise, I'll try to find some "poly" coated bullets and give them a try. Saving a few dollars is a good thing and maybe I'll learn something too.

Google "black bullet."

Of the three different manufacturers I've bought poly-coated bullets from, apparently only one is still extant: Precision.

Not being a fan of lead poisoning from poor ventilation and having enough to do without the time spent casting, I like buying bullets by the case. Uniform quality, convenience and safety, with features (and probably better quality) than if I tried to "roll my own."

Cast, size and lube 2,250 bullets? Thanks, but I'll pass.
 
Thanks again for the feedback. I'm always amazed at the breadth and depth of the information found here. As for lead issues, I shoot outdoors on a private range, and shoot less than 200 rounds at a time a couple of times a month. I'll look for poly "black" bullets, and try some lead also. If I lower the cost I can shoot more and feel better about it.
 
“If I lower the cost I can shoot more and feel better about it.”

Exactly!
I am uncomfortable shooting much commercial ammunition because of cost.
With my lead handloads at about $.10 each, shooting a couple of hundred doesn’t bother my conscience.
 

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