Dale53
Member
Well, I finally got my new "Light Tent" up and running. You'll have to be the judge as to whether or not it is working...
The photo is my 686 CS-1 (4" barrel) that is one of my most shootable revolvers.
Dale53
New Light Tent with 686 CS-1
- Thread starter Dale53
- Start date
Well, I finally got my new "Light Tent" up and running. You'll have to be the judge as to whether or not it is working...
The photo is my 686 CS-1 (4" barrel) that is one of my most shootable revolvers.
Dale53
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Looks very good!
The photo looks great! The light is evenly distributed all the way around the pistol, you cannot get a much better shot than this. Are you using lights on just the sides or three lights top and sides? Which light tent did you get? I am in the process of building a light tent using pcv pipe from this link http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/light_box_light_tent, but your light tent is doing just what I need it to do. Thanks
Lenshappy
Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2007
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It looks terrific - nice even light
and soft shadows.
Take it one more step if you want
to eliminate showing the prop rod...
Cut several dowels or chop
sticks to lengths of 2", 3", 4"
and use the best one placed
behind the gun to prop it up
with out showing. Some sticky
stuff, or small balled up tape
on both ends of the stick will
help the rod to prop up the gun.
"Blue Stick" made by DAP
(spackel company) is the best
for this - try HD or Lowes.
Remember, the closer the light
source is to the subject, the
softer the shadows.
Have fun! Show us more
and soft shadows.
Take it one more step if you want
to eliminate showing the prop rod...
Cut several dowels or chop
sticks to lengths of 2", 3", 4"
and use the best one placed
behind the gun to prop it up
with out showing. Some sticky
stuff, or small balled up tape
on both ends of the stick will
help the rod to prop up the gun.
"Blue Stick" made by DAP
(spackel company) is the best
for this - try HD or Lowes.
Remember, the closer the light
source is to the subject, the
softer the shadows.
Have fun! Show us more
HEADKNOCKER
Member
Love It!!
My 3" CS-1 has become one of my favorite S&Ws
The 4"er looks very useable
Congrats!!
My 3" CS-1 has become one of my favorite S&Ws
The 4"er looks very useable
Congrats!!
This is a quick and dirty picture of my set up in an extra bedroom. The light tent is sitting on an inexpensive TV stand (yard sale material).You can set up on any raised surface that will get the tent at the height that you prefer. I use two lights. Position the lights, take a picture, then look. If you need to modify the light(s) position, then do so for the best effect.
The LT frame is from IKEA $6.99.
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10103804
I had my long suffering wife modify the laundry bag for the scrim (diffusing material). However, if I had to do it over again, I would just get some white, ripstop nylon, and lay it over the frame. The frame comes knocked down and takes all of two minutes to put it together (a rubber hammer helps).
I happen to have studio strobes, so I used those. You can use two 150 watt halogen bulbs in reflectors (I tried that out and it works fine). You will need to set the white balance but that is simple with a digital camera.
I shoot in RAW and adjust the white balance AFTER the shot but you can also shoot JPG, if that is your preference, and adjust the camera white balance to suit your lighting.
Now, that we have removed all of the excuses
Photohause, I appreciate the tips.
My motivation for doing this was to have a simple, small, easy to store and not to say, inexpensive light tent to photograph my handguns (both to post and for insurance purposes). I have a much more elaborate set up for long guns but it takes time to set up and for the smaller items THIS will do just fine.
Dale53
Dale, instead of prop rods I went to the local home improvement store and bought some corks and rubber stoppers in the nut/bolt/screw aisle. I use them on the backside of the cylinder or frame opposite the sideplate as props so I get nuthin' but gun in the pics.
Here's a pic of one in which I didn't get the angle right, you can see the rubber stopper just behind the trigger.
Good luck!
Here's a pic of one in which I didn't get the angle right, you can see the rubber stopper just behind the trigger.
Good luck!
digi-shots
Member
Dale53... great job!
What type of set up do you use for long guns?
Thanks!
What type of set up do you use for long guns?
Thanks!
riptrack44
Member
What lens are you using? Do you adjust the F-stops, etc. or rely on auto focus?
I have a Canon 40D and a Canon Rebel XT.
The most desired lens to use is probably the Canon 100mm f2.8 Macro lens. However, I often use my "ever present" Canon 17x40mm L. When using stationary incandescent lights, I set the camera on Aperture priority to ensure that I have sufficient depth of field (say F8.0 or smaller numerically), use the self timer with the camera on a tripod, and let the camera set the exposure. Of course, I really watch the Histogram to ensure proper exposure. You will have to set the camera's white balance if you don't shoot RAW.
I take all of my photos in RAW and convert them in Light Room, making the necessary adjustments.
When using my Studio Strobes I figure the exposure manually. Make an informed guess, then adjust the strobe lights for the proper exposure. The easiest way would be to use a flash exposure meter but I haven't purchased one, yet. Frankly, it is no great strain to use the camera Histogram to hit a really good exposure level.
I use the camera's focus but adjust the aperture to gain the desired depth of field. I focus on the area of the piece to help with the depth of field.
Dale53
The most desired lens to use is probably the Canon 100mm f2.8 Macro lens. However, I often use my "ever present" Canon 17x40mm L. When using stationary incandescent lights, I set the camera on Aperture priority to ensure that I have sufficient depth of field (say F8.0 or smaller numerically), use the self timer with the camera on a tripod, and let the camera set the exposure. Of course, I really watch the Histogram to ensure proper exposure. You will have to set the camera's white balance if you don't shoot RAW.
I take all of my photos in RAW and convert them in Light Room, making the necessary adjustments.
When using my Studio Strobes I figure the exposure manually. Make an informed guess, then adjust the strobe lights for the proper exposure. The easiest way would be to use a flash exposure meter but I haven't purchased one, yet. Frankly, it is no great strain to use the camera Histogram to hit a really good exposure level.
I use the camera's focus but adjust the aperture to gain the desired depth of field. I focus on the area of the piece to help with the depth of field.
Dale53
When working with long guns, I built three PVC framed scrim frames similar to these at:
http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/HL9002/?a=CA01&t=SH01
The commercial ones can be quite nice. However, a set of three, which I use would cost over $300.00. I built mine from PVC for about $50-$60. My wife made the scrim from white ripstop nylon. They take down and fit in a large bag which my wife also made. I have made magazine cover shots with this set up and like it very well.
I use a tripod with a "spud" to slip the muzzle of a rifle over and take the rifles "portrait" with the rifle vertical.
Dale53
http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/HL9002/?a=CA01&t=SH01
The commercial ones can be quite nice. However, a set of three, which I use would cost over $300.00. I built mine from PVC for about $50-$60. My wife made the scrim from white ripstop nylon. They take down and fit in a large bag which my wife also made. I have made magazine cover shots with this set up and like it very well.
I use a tripod with a "spud" to slip the muzzle of a rifle over and take the rifles "portrait" with the rifle vertical.
Dale53
riptrack44
Member
It goes without saying but the beauty of digital is you can always delete your mistakes plus you get a semi-faux visual of what you just snapped. I'm going to try the tent method with my Nikon D-200. I'm really impressed with your results!
Bullseye Smith
Member
Great job on the PICS, learned something today. Didn't know about the use of a tent. I will have to give it a try and see how it works for me. Who says you can't teach a old dog new tricks
.
I made many magazine covers just using "open shade". However, when working on a deadline, it would often be raining or something and that created problems. The light tent allows you the luxury of photographing in any weather condition or any time of night. As a for instance, if it is a cold, wet, rainy day with nothing to do, THAT is the time to bring out the ol' light tent and start photographing your handguns for insurance purposes.
Be sure and take pictures from both sides (top and bottom are also good) but be SURE to include a picture of the butt of the revolver with the grips off that will properly display the serial number. You will not believe how easy it is to deal with an insurance claims rep with good photos and records if the unthinkable should happen (fire or theft, for instance
).
In addition, we have all learned right here on this forum, how expensive the "tools" that come were sold with the older revolvers. The LT will allow you to get really good photos of those, also. In fact, if you are an Ebay user, this is perfect for many small items that you will want to sell on Ebay.
Once you get the setup going well, I would suggest that you take notes. That way, a month later when you need to photograph something else, you won't have to fumble around with exposure but can hit it on the nose at once.
Dale53
Be sure and take pictures from both sides (top and bottom are also good) but be SURE to include a picture of the butt of the revolver with the grips off that will properly display the serial number. You will not believe how easy it is to deal with an insurance claims rep with good photos and records if the unthinkable should happen (fire or theft, for instance
In addition, we have all learned right here on this forum, how expensive the "tools" that come were sold with the older revolvers. The LT will allow you to get really good photos of those, also. In fact, if you are an Ebay user, this is perfect for many small items that you will want to sell on Ebay.
Once you get the setup going well, I would suggest that you take notes. That way, a month later when you need to photograph something else, you won't have to fumble around with exposure but can hit it on the nose at once.
Dale53
bobf
US Veteran
Some of the Canon cameras have "live view" which really helps trying to get the hang of gun pictures. The new Rebel XSI (I'm not sure which others) has this capability.
Edited: according to the Canon website several cameras including the 40D has live view.
I'm trying to get my light worked out but here is a couple of screen captures made while I was trying to learn to use it.
You can do almost everything from the computer including shutter release.
I'll eventually get this worked out.
Bob
Edited: according to the Canon website several cameras including the 40D has live view.
I'm trying to get my light worked out but here is a couple of screen captures made while I was trying to learn to use it.
You can do almost everything from the computer including shutter release.
I'll eventually get this worked out.
Bob
WPWarhawk
US Veteran
Very nice 4 inch CS-1. I've never seen much on the 4 inchers, everyone seems to prefer the 3 inch (for good reason).
Back in the early 90's when these were surplused, I bought one of each. But I let a good friend talk me out of the 4 incher, and have regretted it ever since. I recently found another 4 incher, so I have 'em both once again.
Back in the early 90's when these were surplused, I bought one of each. But I let a good friend talk me out of the 4 incher, and have regretted it ever since. I recently found another 4 incher, so I have 'em both once again.
riptrack44
Member
Well, I'm convinced. I bought a light tent on eBay. Now I need to rig up some lighting fixtures. The 'pretty' ones are very expensive in the photo stores or the catalogs.
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