New M41 PC FTE

Rdreeszen

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First range trip with NIB Model 41PC. First 20 rounds of CCI SV target (A03FA01)ran ok. 3rd magazine had solid FTE’s using both factory mags. Initial cleaning was just bore patch w/Hoppe’s. After chamber cleaning plop/drop test was ok. Any suggestions before next range test?
 
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My mid-nineties M41 is unreliable with with CCI SV. About 3 to 5 percent of the time the slide doesn't come back far enough to completely eject the shell or sometimes will eject the shell but not go far enough back to pick up the next one. I tried replacing the extractor and making sure the gun is lubricated to no avail. Eventually I made peace with my gun not liking SV ammo and switched to HV ammo which works fine. My current go to ammo is CCI Blazer which is reliable and reasonably priced.

The HV ammo is a little less accurate but still shoots better than I do without resting the gun on a bench. But if you want to wring every last bit of accuracy out of your gun with SV ammo there a couple of things you can try.

One option is replacing the recoil spring with a lighter one. The ones from Wolff Springs have are only finished on one end. If you ever do replace the spring and use a Wolff Spring, MAKE SURE the FINISHED END faces the muzzle!!! If you don't the gun will likely jam up so tight you have to pound it open or take it to a gunsmith.

Another option is putting a drop of oil on the first round of every magazine.

Before you do anything I would try running a few hundred rounds of HV ammo through the gun and try the SV ammo again. If you are lucky it might just need a little break in. The M41 is designed for SV ammo and shoots it best but is not going self destruct if high velocity ammo is used. I have fired several thousands rounds of HV ammo through mine with no ill effect. You used to be able to buy a 3D printed recoil buffer that kept the slide from hitting the trigger guard but I think they were discontinued.
 
Dave covers it.
I have put a drop of oil on the top round of M41 and HS.
My little M&P .22C had a break in effect, about 300 rounds of Minimags and it got a lot more flexible on ammo.


Not that you are seeing it so soon, but Larry Nelson recommends soaking the chamber throat of his .22 conversion with a carbon remover.
 
Clean and lube (not just the barrel ) ... after each range session

Break - in .... 300 to 500 rounds of different ammo to see what it functions best with and shoots most accurately - which may not be the same ammo , but look for that magic Brand-O-Ammo.

Clean and lube (not just barrel ) after each range session .

Cleaned and lubricated beats Dirty and dry Seven Ways To Sunday !
Gary
 
Dave covers it.
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Not that you are seeing it so soon, but Larry Nelson recommends soaking the chamber throat of his .22 conversion with a carbon remover.

Carbon solvent and a brass tube as a scraper works great for removing the carbon ring, followed by spinning a brass brush just in the chamber and then patching. Be aware that after doing this the first shot fired will not always pick up the second round due to the clean chamber, so shoot a magazine of rounds to confirm operation before competition use, or just expect it in the Bullseye/Precision Pistol Slow Fire stage.

With a Wolff spring I can shoot CCI SV, Norma TAC-22 and SK Pistol Match reliably. Each shoots to a different group center at 25 and 50 yards.
 
Be aware that after doing this the first shot fired will not always pick up the second round due to the clean chamber, so shoot a magazine of rounds to confirm operation .

Took me a while to realize that, the oiled first round helped.

An acquaintance shot in the old Masters with a .22 stage in with the centerfire target and speed work. He practiced a lot but with common ammo. So when the match came up and he loaded up with the Good Stuff, he found his gun would not function on it.
 
Appreciate the detailed suggestions. Tried the one drop on first round in full magazine with no change. Will try few hundred rounds of CCI Blazers then attempt SV again. My first 41 and I knew they could be touchy but given the price point my expectations were higher than reality.
 
I had a nib '89 model that I had the same problem with and a couple hundred minimags cured my problem also.
Had a chance to buy a nice '73 model so sold the '89.

Just replaced the recoil spring in it and saw Mr. Lively's post about the orientation of the spring and evidently had it backwards as several other of my pistols have the finished end to the rear. Had only fired 75 rounds with the new spring and no problems but have reversed it now.
Could anyone explain why the open end forward would cause problems, just curious.
 
Took me a while to realize that, the oiled first round helped.

But don't oil the cartridges when you load your magazines the night before the match. Wait until you're at the match. Oiling the top round in the magazine the night before can apparently leak into the powder charge of the top two rounds and reduce the power of those shells noticeably, like a semi-squib. Ask me how I know.
 
First range trip with NIB Model 41PC. First 20 rounds of CCI SV target (A03FA01)ran ok. 3rd magazine had solid FTE’s using both factory mags. Initial cleaning was just bore patch w/Hoppe’s. After chamber cleaning plop/drop test was ok. Any suggestions before next range test?

Get a .25 ACP bronze brush, a little Hoppe's and scrub the heck out of the barrel and chamber, then run enough solvent soaked patches through until they come out clean. I had acquired a Model 41 in an internet auction that had a 40% FTE rate, which would cause the empty case to collide with the fresh round and tie up the gun good and tight. I ran across this suggestion, so I can't take credit for it. I'm now getting close to 100% ejection reliability now.
 
Just replaced the recoil spring in it and saw Mr. Lively's post about the orientation of the spring and evidently had it backwards as several other of my pistols have the finished end to the rear. Had only fired 75 rounds with the new spring and no problems but have reversed it now.
Could anyone explain why the open end forward would cause problems, just curious.

The unfinished end can slip off the guide rod. Full explanation in this thread:

ALERT - (now with updates) WHEN CHANGING RECOIL SPRING ON MODEL 41..........
 
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Thanks for the link, read through entire thread.
Had bought a Wolff calibration pack plus a standard weight back when having problems with my first 41 and never used any until just a few days ago. Glad I saw this thread when I did.

Thought maybe the hole in slide coupled with the open end of spring was where the problem was.
 
T....
Thought maybe the hole in slide coupled with the open end of spring was where the problem was.

Some M41 recoil spring guide rods have tapered ends and some have more square ends viewed from the side. I found that out when my used M41 jammed on a recoil spring. I had to hammer the slide off after removing the mainspring (for safety) and the captured spring chewed up the installed guide rod. I purchased a replacement guide rod and noted it did not have a tapered end. The square end guide rod fills the hole in the slide better.

Not sure if the previous owner had modified the guide rod that came with the pistol or if it square end guide rod was a production change.
 
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