Standard new S&W caveats apply:
-Do not use ammoniated cleaners with the current bluing. It's not as chemical resistant as the older method that's difficult to do at scale these days due to environmental regs. If you intend to carry it a lot and visible finish wear is going to bother you, a Model 66 may be more ideal.
-Best to inspect before purchase since S&W QC has been spotty as of late. A canted barrel should be easy enough to see, and check endshake/cylinder gap if they'll let you measure.
-I don't know if this problem affects things other than J-frames, but S&W definitely had some out of spec yokes/cranes. Check to see if the cylinder opens and closes without too much effort.
-If the action seems a little gritty, it might just need oil. Sometimes guns ship dry (my 642UC was), or it may have been sitting on a shelf for a long time in an orientation where the oil seeped away from where it should be.
As for comparing to originals, I do have a Model 10-6 heavy barrel and a Model 64-7 (MIM, IL).
My Model 10 may have been owned by the rare cop who dry fired like a maniac but rarely did live fire. The finish is worn, and it came to me with a broken DA sear pin, but a really clean bore. SA trigger pull is really, really good, and the both the SA and DA pulls are lighter than my Model 64. My Model 64 was probably a security or armored car company trade-in (GB seller had over a dozen), which much less use over the years.
However, I actually prefer the DA feel of the Model 64 better. Both revolvers have a Wolff 15# rebound spring in them and factory mainsprings. The Model 10's trigger pull barely changed after the new rebound spring, so the original was likely quite fatigued/compressed from use.
of the new Model 10 Classics for $752 new in the box.
