New Model 3

[iby]

It has occurred to me that we don't see a lot of NM3's here.
Is it because there were not that many sold domestically?
I recall total production of about 35,000 of which about 40% +/- were sold internationally
That would leave about 20,000 domestics, actually less than the American series.
Thoughts??

 

[larkworthy]

Most of mine shipped overseas:

1 - Turkey
3 - Australia
1 - Argentina
1 - London
1 - Revenue Cutter Service (US)
1 - waiting on a letter

I am working on an acquisition on one more that was shipped to Japan.

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

Currently, I have only two NM#3's in my collection; One was shipped to
Japan, the other went to Ohio.

Cheers!
Webb

 

[iby]

I have 6
One to Japan
The others domestic

 

[iby]

Most of mine shipped overseas:

1 - Turkey
3 - Australia
1 - Argentina
1 - London
1 - Revenue Cutter Service (US)
1 - waiting on a letter

I am working on an acquisition on one more that was shipped to Japan.

I guess many have found their way home

 

[The Gila Bender]

I have exactly one (1) New Model 3 .44 Russian. Shipped to MW Robinson NYC April 1881. It's in pretty decent shape, finish wear and patina, but no dings or scratches, and all numbers match. Edit: Correction, the stocks ARE number-matching and in remarakbly good condition.

 

[mmaher94087]

I don't believe that I ever owned a domestic shipped New Model #3 unless my #3 Targets (2) were U.S. shipped.

 

[Exmilcop]

I have 2, one's a personal keeper and the other one is up for sale. My keeper has a 6-1/2" barrel that's about a 9/10. but the mechanics aren't quite as nice as the one I'm selling, which has a 4 digit serial, all matching. Both are in .44 Russian and I haven't had them lettered yet. Personally, I love the ergonomics of them and they just feel excellent for my hands.

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

I don't believe that I ever owned a domestic shipped New Model #3 unless my #3 Targets (2) were U.S. shipped.

There is a good chance they are. My "Ohio" NM#3 is an 8" with target sights.

Cheers!
Webb

 

[larkworthy]

This one came in this week. I sent in for a letter, but Don confirmed that 22809 shipped on 12/29/1894 to Takata, Japan. Some were provided with lanyard rings and cut for stock (which this one has). Luckily, I purchased a stock a few years ago at a local auction for a very reasonable price.

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

Wonderful snag!

Is the serial number stamped on the grip frame under the grips?

Cheers!
Webb

 

[larkworthy]

No serial number under grips. Do you guys have a New Model No 3 with a lanyard ring either a serial number on frame under the grips?

 

[larkworthy]

Also, any idea what this mark is from/for? It is on the bottom of the front strap?

 

[iby]

here's mine

 

[larkworthy]

here's mine

It appears to have a modern (post 1899) lanyard ring

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

Did this piece go back to the Factory? The "3 4 9" might be a return date.
Why there isn't a star is problematic but who knows. What caught my eye
was the very round "O" stamp on the heel.

I have an American 1st. model that went back to the Factory and it has this
same mark.





Cheers!
Webb

 

[larkworthy]

You may be right that this one was returned. If it was, the work was superb and this revolver was treated with great respect. If not, it is in pretty great shape for its age.

For what it is worth, I love pre-1898 revolvers with factory rework marks. I know, there are purist out there that want the revolver that sat in a drawer for 150 years, but I really appreciate pristine factory re-worked antiques that the owners cared/used them enough to return for proper repair/rework.

Regards, Lye

 

[iby]

It appears to have a modern (post 1899) lanyard ring

It doesn't look Factory

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

I don't know how much you want to pursue this but the return star may
be under the lanyard. It is covering the last 2 digits of the serial number.
Even though there is a hole in the frame, some of the stamping may have
escaped destruction.

Cheers!
Webb

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

The distinctive "O" stamp was also applied to the barrel on one of the
hinge cheeks (although it looks like the workman stuttered while stamping
it).



Cheers!
Webb

 

[stumper]

Great find Lyle!

 

[Exmilcop]

Also, any idea what this mark is from/for? It is on the bottom of the front strap?

View attachment 848689

I could be wrong, but to me it looks like a casting flaw. If I were a workman or supervisor I'd be of the opinion that the flaw didn't compromise structural integrity or function and would have been acceptable as a purely cosmetic flaw.

 

[larkworthy]

Group, I am taking the New Model 3 apart for inspection and I am having trouble with removing the main spring (very tight). I have loosened the main spring screw and I am able to get the main spring out of the frame but it is binding and not allowing me to unhook the hammer. This is my first New Model disassembly so any assistance greatly appreciated!

 

[larkworthy]

 

[desi2358]

Group, I am taking the New Model 3 apart for inspection and I am having trouble with removing the main spring (very tight). I have loosened the main spring screw and I am able to get the main spring out of the frame but it is binding and not allowing me to unhook the hammer. This is my first New Model disassembly so any assistance greatly appreciated!

I have removed them by compressing the spring with a pair of expansion pliers. With the spring installed and under tension compress the spring toward the front strap which gives enough slack to disengage the hammer link. Once the link is free let the spring expand, loosen or remove the strain screw and the spring will come right out.

 

[mmaher94087]

Amazon sells the pliers. Also, a good auto parts store will have them for installing piston rings. They are/were around $15-$20.

 

[larkworthy]

While I get the right tools to fully disassemble, I am confident this was refurbished/refinished at the factory. Below are additional details. I know it is a long shot, but I am going to ask for a deep dive to see if this one hits any repair invoice searches from 1949.

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

By All Means do a deep dive on yours.

After seeing that yours has the "O" stamp on the cylinder, I checked mine
and sure enough mine has that "O" stamp under the extractor.



I'll check under the side plate later. Dr.'s Appointment first.

Cheers!
Webb

 

[Heinz]

I would suggest you use a small parallel clamp instead of pliers. They give much better control. McMaster Carr has them and they ship very quickly. I use them on flintlocks for the frizzen spring
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/parallel-clamps/bar-clamps-2~/

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

A bar clamp would be a little large for this purpose. Parallel clamps are
designed to compress rather than to spread it apart. They would work
fine for Vee type springs (which usually need to be compressed and not
spread).

I checked under the side plate and sure enough the serial number was
stamp on the inside of the plate.



Now for a quickie pic-tutorial essay. Here is the lockwork of my #3 American



I use a set of snap-ring spreader pliers like this.



To remove the main spring, First, insert the tips of the spreader near the hammer.



Spreading the pliers compresses the main spring.



Then move the stirrup away from the spring hooks (and try to keep
one's hands out of the shot).



Last relax the pliers and remove.



Easy-Peasy!

Cheers!
Webb