New Model Three value please?

[7005R]

Gentleman,

My good friend is liquidating much of his fathers gun collection. One of them is the model 3 below, which I plan on purchasing. It has some pitting in the barrel, is chambered in .44 Russian, has no unusual markings, is in the 14,000 serial number range, and appears to be all original. The only working issue is the bolt stop appears to be stuck, and only locks up the cylinder when it is cocked, otherwise it free spins. We are looking for a fair price for both of us. any assistance would be deeply appreciated. Thank you in advance.

 

[glowe]

Welcome to the Forum. You ask a tough question, considering the condition of your New Model 3. I can see no original bluing left on the gun and the walnut socks are well worn as well. Lastly, it is not in good working condition, which could mean worn or broken parts. I would guess the condition at Fair to Good.

Having said the above, these old west revolvers still sell well, but yours would not attract many collectors' interest.

Jim Supica states that Good condition was valued at $750 and Fair at $600 in 2006 Third Edition of the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson. I will only speculate that the current value could approach $1000, but would be valued below that if mechanical condition requires hard to find parts.

 

[rct269]

What he said!

Ralph Tremaine

 

[7005R]

Thank you both! Perhaps I should offer him $750, since we do not know what it will take to fix it?

 

[rct269]

Then again, you may wish to consider investing more money and ending up with a collector's item.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[danalex]

It depend many of the country, in France he(it) would be has 1200€ to 1500€

 

[7005R]

Does anyone have an idea how much it would cost to repair?

Thanks!

 

[opoefc]

It may only require a good and thorough cleaning to get rid of 130+ yrs of old grease, crud and little deceased critters. Try a soaking in a good solvent and a blow out with compressed air. Ed.

 

[mmaher94087]

" The only working issue is the bolt stop appears to be stuck, and only locks up the cylinder when it is cocked". If it locks when cocked then the spring is good. The cylinder stop/bolt is trigger actuated and since it "locks" at full-cock, I think you have an issue with the hammer/trigger sear geometry. I think the half-cock notch on the hammer might be broken/modified or the trigger sear stoned/shortened which allows the 'free-wheeling' of the cylinder with the hammer down.

To check the lockup issue; slowly cock the revolver. As you do this, check for cylinder lockup (locked cylinder at "hammer all the way down); at half-cock (should spin freely) and again just as the hammer just reaches full-cock (cylinder locked). If the cylinder locks after full-cock, as the hammer is drawn farther to the rear, then you have a good indication that the sear point is bad. Mike#283